JSM

Your pics are not showing up. You have to have a log in to Classic Zcars to see them.

Subscribed. I know it's old just trying to gather info.

Did you get it working? I'm looking for some base maps as well.

I was just reading through the manual and these are the part #'s: http://www.electromotive-inc.com/pdf_files/tec99.pdf Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor (HEGO) The EGO sensor is essential for doing closed loop feedback fuel control as found on all late model street vehicles. It is the key sensor for producing good power with least emissions. It further can be used to aid in calibration of both street and off-road vehicles. Several styles exist but only two basic types are commonly used. The simplest is the unheated single wire EGO sensor (GM P/N 8990741). The single wire can be used only if the EGO sensor is mounted in the exhaust manifold or within 10 inches of the manifold. If the EGO is mounted farther away or after a turbocharger a heated sensor should be used. PAF and PAFZ systems require a heated sensor. EGO Sensor (Unheated) The unheated, 1 wire oxygen sensor is the easiest to use since all it requires is installing an M18-1.5 (sparkplug thread) boss in the exhaust. Use an M18-1.5 nut or an EGO sensor weld-in adapter available from Electromotive. Mount the sensor boss in an accessible spot close to the outlet of the exhaust manifold. Do not mount it more than 10 inches down from the exhaust manifold. If a good welder is not available it may be possible to obtain an exhaust manifold or tubular header equipped with an EGO fitting. Install the one wire EGO with anti-seize compound, being careful not to get any of it on the sensor element, and run the wire up to the TEC terminal marked “EGOâ€.

I have a line on this car. It's pretty complete. The driver door skin is done wrong (sticks out 1/2" past proper body line), has some dents (chunks two) in some of the fiberglass on the rocker panels. The conversion was done back in the 90's I believe. The other thing is it has some holes in the floor. I can't stand the wheels and I really don't like the rollbar. After looking through reaction reasearch site, I know there is some serious money tied up in this. Plus side it has coilovers, 4 wheel disc with proportion valve, running on a TEC II. Anything to look for on this conversion.

240z 280z?

I'm suprised ebay hasn't ended the auction using Ferrari I thought was a no, no.

What would look even better on my mind would be if they painted them to match. They do look much better though.

Looking good. Do you have full pics of your IC plumbing?

Awesome! Well if it was rebuilt you likely know he never got it running and now you know why! Now you are the guru!

Can you see where the rotor is in relation to TDC? This is out of an 82 FSM. I don't think the rotor relation is different from year to year for the Motors themselves. The left circle is NA, the other with the X is turbo.

I'm leaning towards timing after reading all the replys. You eliminated fuel by using the starting fluid. Having you checked the rotor in relation to the motor at TDC? Pretty Sure the Rotor should be pointing very slightly above one. Someone else chime in here. I recall a pic somewhere in the FSM or maybe that was the drive spindle. Is the stock distributor in place? Wondering if possible the Transistor is bad? Did you visibly see clean spark on all 6 spark plugs?

Based on your pictures I say you have a Z "problem"!

Did you try starting fluid. Could be clogged injectors. Also did you clean all the EFI connectors. AFM and check for corrosion on everything.

So are you happy with the craftsman branded ingersol Rand unit? I saw them the other day at Sears.

I never knew we had barns in Florida! Great shots.

Thanks Jasper. This motor I have has either 85k or 277k or some unknown. Under Bank1 valve cover is very clean though. Hard part is while in the JY the motor rolled off the dolly and bent the snot out of the timing cover. I'm also wanting to: Replace Cam seals Replace valve cover gaskets Likely replace knock sensors That center rubber coolant hose underneath the intake manifold I'm wanting to re-use my existing engine harness. In order to unplug the knock sensors, do I have to remove the lower intake manifold to unplug them or do they plug into a sub-harness? When I was speaking with another Toyota tech, he told me that normally on engine swaps the entire engine comes with a harness already on the motor. Oddly enough after changing Z31 plugs, these plugs were a breeze to change.

I'm horridly cheap. My wife of all people convinced me to put it in, test it and then pull it back out to do all the maintenance. The 1MZ has tons of gaskets here and there.

Before you order the parts, check the continuity from the wire that leads from CHTS to the pin on the ECU. You'll have to look in the FSM for the Pin #.

LOL, yeah I guess I am. I'm just not looking forward to all that is involved. I'd hate to spend 400 plus on all the needed parts to install them on a lemon motor. I pulled the valve cover on the JY motor and it is clean as can be. These motors are known for sludge. There was a big law suit against Toyota.

Hmmmm.... I guess I could do just the rear main seal only that way I don't have to pull the motor out again. Sorry for posting this here. The lexus forums seem far away from any logical thought!

Anyway, I bought this 01 Lexus for $400: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105988-advice-2001-lexus-es300/page__p__991530__fromsearch__1#entry991530 The motor turns out to have much more issues then I thought, specifically, cylinder #1 has zero compression and sludge. So I got lucky and found a JY motor for $300 and it is VVTi which are next to impossible to find without paying $1300 and up. My problem is I don't know the current internal condition and I don't want to rebuild it. I did a compression check by hand and got up to 50PSI on each cyl. I want to put all new gaskets, seals, timing belt, water pump, pulleys, etc and clean it up before putting it in but I'm having second thoughts. I was considering leaving the JY motor "as is" put it in as it sits and put it all back together and see how it runs. Then pull it back out, do all the seals and all the PIA maintenance with the motor back out? Thoughts?

Please forgive me if my assessment is wrong and I'm not accusing you, but this is what "appears" you are asking for from the insurance company. I’m assuming you are keeping your car with all the high end parts, yet you are submitting receipts to the insurance company with the goal of getting their full value as new parts plus the value of the shell itself? I’m also assuming many of the parts are perfectly fine and re-usable. If you turning the car over to the insurance company and walking away, fight their decision. If not, I guess I’m confused on how they are treating you unfairly?

I used http://www.dtsone.com/ They found me the best rate. It was $350 a few years ago. That was for a complete head and block from Orlando to Los Angeles.

I have a rear from a 71. Same glass just lines are vertical. Any chance you work for FedEx?