JSM

OBO = I always assumed One Buyers Offer!

So the price was FIRM when it said OBO? I always look at it, if its meant to be, it's meant to be.

Thanks Tony for the explanation. I always feel dumb after I read through all that has been said in many posts and then realize the importance of math in everything I read!

This is my compressor. It will run up to 135 PSI. From a CFM rating where is the bottle neck at in compressors? I'm assuming it is the regulator? So best bang for the buck is simply get a shorter 1/2" hose direct to the gun correct? One thing that confussed me was IR told me to run a shorter hose with a weak compressor?

Could you imagine the jail time from that decision? That was insane! To go along with the stupidity he should have forgone the helmet, gloves and suit and just went naked. Separate the men from the boys! I can hear him now explaining to the officer, "I was safe...at least I had my helmet and suit on" as they cuff him and throw him in the back of the car...

Let's just go with this! It's much more fun! I'm just kidding of course.

For full torque capacity 24 CFM is needed. Avg CFM is only 5. Seems I never run across an average nut or bolt when I'm trying to get something stuck off! http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=INGERSOLL-RAND+2135TiMAX&op=search&Ntt=INGERSOLL-RAND+2135TiMAX&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset Item Pneumatic Impact Wrench Type General Duty Style Pistol Grip Anvil Standard Square Drive Size (In.) 1/2 Torque Range (Ft.-Lb.) 50 to 550 Max. Torque (Ft.-Lb.) 780 Average CFM @ 15 Second Run Time 5.0 CFM @ Full Load 24.0 Max. Bolt Capacity (In.) 9/16 Free Speed (RPM) 9800 Retainer Type Ring Required Pressure (PSI) 90 Air Inlet (In.) 1/4 Min. Hose (In.) 3/8 Overall Length (In.) 7-1/3 Handle Material Composite Handle Pistol Housing Titanium Hammer Case Weight (Lbs.) 3.9

Thanks John. When I was speaking yesterday to Ingresroll-Rand about this gun, they said my compressor would be under powered: http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/am-en/products/tools/impactools/maintenance-automotive-impactools/1-2-drive/2135timax-series/2135timax-series-impactools So I'm realistically looking at getting this one, but still think I'm underpowered to handle it as well: http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/am-en/products/tools/impactools/maintenance-automotive-impactools/1-2-drive/231-series

I want to buy a decent impact wrench but I am realizing my compressor is not that great. I have a 5hp 26 gallon tank rated at 6.6 SCFM@40PSI and 5.8 SCFM@90 PSI. If I run a length of 30’ 3/8†hose from my tank to another portable tank, 15 gallon or so and then a very short 3/8†hose or bigger to the new gun, would I increase the potential CFM directly to the gun? This is for the home garage obviously. I just want to create the best “oomph†for occasional high torque demand, without going out and buying a new compressor.

Hey I just found this thread today. I got 3 cars back in my garage, what a chore! I've got my 260 in the single bay buried behind tons of other stuff. This was all in my garage two weeks prior. Had a huge garage sale and the rest went to Good will.

Do you just need certain connectors or the whole thing?

Take the hose of carefully, grab some black electrical tape and wrap it. That's what I did on mine. I know it is a bandaid fix, but you can then determine if it idles any better. I searched blackdragon and MSA and could not find the hose.

I think it was an L28 but I don't exactly remember. I was going to swap it. No it did not have a newer tank. That was also an issue I recall from the Ray the owner I bought it from.

I think I have one of those also, but let me check. Did one not come with the car? You can swing by if you like.

I was also told the entire engine harness was cut and respliced back together! The AK owner was going to do a V8 swap and simply cut it out!?

Because it was such a mess I was going to remove it and start over. Sometimes it is just easier that way. I never once even tried to start the car. Oddly enough, when I bought it, it was down due to a believed AFM. I think the intake boot was bad in actuality (Between MAF and turbo). That is an NA block with the conversion thrown on. Not sure if you knew that. Additionally, you will want to drain the tank. The car sat outside for about 2 years and in my garage for a year and who knows how long since you’ve got since it is not running. Your best bet is to read all the Turbo sticky’s and get familiar with the FSM and all the diagrams.

Too funny. That was my car at one point too. I paid $800 and sold it to Dalton for $1300. It sat in my garage for a year and I never touched it. My cousin in IL did that "mess" your dealing with now. History I know on it. Someone in AK sold it to my Cousin -> Ray in Kissimme -> JSM (Jeff) -> Dalton and you know the rest. That is a very solid car though.

Where in FL are you?

Did you buy that car from Dalton here in Orlando?

I thought Big-Phil had all kinds of boost issues with that same setup you have with a 38mm WG. His may have been more creep related.

That made me laugh, thank you. No bad feelings Leon, just found it funny.

Oh my he's alive, where have you been?

Thanks guys.

I picked up a used motor from the JY for my Lexus. Of course mileage is unknown and no starter or trans came with the car because I had to pay for it if I kept it! Anyway, I'd like to do a compression check. I was curious if I were to spin the motor with an impact wrench on the crank pulley if that would be a bad idea? Anyone else try something like this? Thoughts? Any other method to check compression? Talk about loads of fun!

I think it was either a 77 or 78 in the Tampa LKQ JY. I know there is also an early 260z and very ruff 280z in the LKQ in St. Pete.