duragg

I think I will do the same. Not like its driven or sitting outside in the rain or anything. I think goop would just make a mess. Important to get the seal on the correct orientation.. Ooops. Better.

Time for a hatch refresh. Ordered new hatch-to-glass seal and hatch-to-body seal (Ni$$an). Q: For reinstall do we use any goop in the seal between glass and body? or just let the rubber do its work? I think the FSM says use a "sealing agent" so maybe a thin strip of sillycone is in order and probably smooth install too. Removed, stripped, cleaned marginally well, fix a little rust, shoot it flat-black, reinstall glass, reinstall in car. Is the basic plan...

Agree on this one. We run 100LL in the airplanes at lots of different RPMS from 2000 to 4500 and Sea Level to 25000'. Its stable over time, smells good and I have access to it at half the cost of Race Gas. At some point you gotta run what ya got. Its better than AZ pump gas is for sure.

I want to leave a little on the table also. Today my 195-60/14s are about 23" tall. Within a month or so I am cutting for ZG Flares and 16x10 rims to get something like a 25" tire size. Plus installing an R200.. this really all needs to happen at the same time- Dangit.

Thanks for the writeup and JohnC's too. Ordering the 280z springs today after much deliberation about Coil-overs which I just don't have the energy to do right now. I'll try to take some pictures to add to this and the FAQ. KTM- After reading this and the FAQ it sounds like you cut more than JohnC hints at his FAQ. Assume you just wanted a specific ride height?

With respect to testing main jet start. I found it a bit tricky. Drove around without the main stacks installed and the initiation point is not at one static rpm. In fact you can milk the idle and progression up to 5000rpm or more. But getting to a definitive Mains Begin Here: XXXXrpm point is pretty elusive for me. I know on my car it is somewhere around 1500 to 2500 depending on throttle position. Butterflys have to physically be moved beyond the progression ports to be sure you are seeing purely main input. You can watch all of this like clockwork on the wideband. Float level was a major contributor to my main initiation. Presently 1 or 2 of my floats are a bit too high and I see fuel flow fluctuations on turning. Thankfully I live in Phoenix now. For me the solution will be to lower the float level which will delay the mains slightly. But increase the progression flow to get them to meet nicely. In the meantime I just try to keep the throttle full open as much as possible. And MAN! Fuel flow at max power is impressive! Not an economy setup.

So I am befelled with an interesting "problem" in that my Onboard panel-mounted Wideband O2 is dying. Perhaps from running 50/50 leaded 100LL fuel. So Now my crutch is removed and I am back to tuning on the Butt-Dyno which I am begining to feel more fond of. With the Wideband I am hampered by feelings of guilt and shame when I discover my very best idle is 11.5AFR. The experts say this is too rich so I "fix it" and it runs worse, barking and popping. I find my best power and feel at a certain AFR that the experts say is incorrect. Yet my "incorrect" AFR is the one that runs best and pulls clean to 7500RPM. The motor just seems to LOVE this setup and the 50/50 mix of 100LL so I am going to let the dead wideband sleep for a while until I really need it to solve a problem. ZRedBaron and others have said this very truth for a while and I am coming back full circle to agree. However, I could never have gotten here with out it.

Thanks again all. Installing an R200 in my 240 soon and I need a #1, 2 @ #2 and probably some other stuff. I think once it is all in my hands and mocked up it will make more sense. These definitions help to at least reinforce that one needs to be sure which what is what.

Most get rid of the vacuum the vacuum the vacuum advance. My L24 had a virtually identical setup and was acceptable mostly. Float level is a major player in determining when the progression progressin progression quits and the mains come in. Google: Sidedraft Central and you can join the hardcore Yahoo group for DCOE junkies. With your same setup I needed the 115s. Installing the 120s made a giant flooded hole out of progression. One mans setup is vitrually guaranteed NOT to work in another guys car. Weber jetting is always a "Starting Place" since you will probably want to change it tomorrow. Weber jetting is always a "Starting Place" since you will probably need to change it tomorrow.

Most get rid of the vacuum the vacuum the vacuum advance. My L24 had a virtually identical setup and was acceptable mostly. Float level is a major player in determining when the progression progressin progression quits and the mains come in. Google: Sidedraft Central and you can join the hardcore Yahoo group for DCOE junkies. With your same setup I needed the 115s. Installing the 120s made a giant flooded hole out of progression. One mans setup is vitrually guaranteed NOT to work in another guys car. Weber jetting is always a "Starting Place" since you will probably want to change it tomorrow. Weber jetting is always a "Starting Place" since you will probably need to change it tomorrow.

This is great, exactly what I was looking for: driveshaft - diff flange - diff => stub shaft - half shaft or CV - companion flange - stub axle - wheel Tj

I have searched and still confused, need a little terminology lesson. What is the proper name and location for: 1) The front flange on the diffy where the driveshaft connects to? 2) The side axles that snap into the sides of the diffy? (Stub Axle?) 3) Where do companion flanges live? 4) The axle with the wheel mounting bolts? (also Stub Axle?) I've seen a lot of these parts called a lot of things.

Very interesting thread. With my F54/N42 head combo and total seal rings my compression tester shows 210+ psi typically. Cam is the Isky L490 and I spent a lot of time researching "dynamic compression ratio" (DCR) before building. I didn't CC the heads myself but using stock parts and the available calculators I got about a 10.3:1 Static CR. When you figure the cam and valve timing into the formula the DCR is something just under 8. Is this DCR the variability that is driving the differences in experience? I honestly don't know if my motor knocks or not, way too loud to hear and the Knocksense picks up too much other noise. If it blows up I'll make another one, not the end of the world. Detonation in my relatively low power motor is less of a problem than a big boost turbo motor. It could probably go on forever in my application, whereas a turbo may pop much quicker?

Pressed on a new front pulley with the keyway and key perfectly lined up (engine in car, radiator on) Torqued the bolt re-installed everything. Turned the crank to calibrate timing and heard THAT noise, That sound of a small steel part falling onto a metal plate... "tink.drop clink" WTF WAS THAT..?? Oh yes I did. and that ain't even the stupid part.

I've got the Knocksense on my 10.3:1 F54/N42 engine with Triples and TwicePipes. Brand new engine. Stripped interior is noisy so aint no hearing rattle. And some of the Twice-Pipe harmonics also trigger the light in a very defined & consistent RPM. Wideband for mixture monitoring. The knocksense LED is ON continuously past a certain RPM even with no throttle. It false alarms regularly past 4000 rpm even running 100LL fuel and minimal timing. I have worked the adjustments over and over but after speaking with "Boris" we determined the solid-lifter engine to just be too noisy. Next test was an adjustable resistor to detune the signal or something like that. I finally decided it might be more fun to blow the engine than fret over a bit of klacckery. Leaned for best power, put the ZAP back in the timing, learned to ignore the LED for now. I think with Boris' help it could be tuned to work better.

'ROPOS' (pronounced "Row-puss") is making progress.. Some heavy competition here. Next on the list are the LSD, springs, rims, ZGs, plus someone dared me to install a Comant ci-177 (blacked out) on the roof..

I joined that NASIOC forum and have been watching, but I must have slept in that day! Good catch...

Was that recently? I've been looking, but they at least go fast. A few "R180 LSD" I found were actually earlier R160s. What ratio did you get? How do you find the difference driving?

STI diffs are rare and spendy right now. Why not pop a Powerbrute clsd into your 180?

With the different cam you need different lash pads. One motor I pulled apart (to scrounge the tower shims and MSA Springs) had aftermarket lashpads. 2 other motors I pulled apart (to cherrypick various parts) had stock lashpads. Once I got the new cam installed and determined the wipe pattern and new lash pads required, I discovered they were NLA / Backordered to infinity. Ended up buying whatever they had and had them ground down to my spec. I may not have looked in all the right places to find new ones available.

It was a job. But looked neat when done.

Just replaced my pulley last week and used a standard bearing puller. I had to stick a slug of metal down in the threaded well so the bearing puller had something to push against. Came right off. Shortly thereafter my problems started, but thats another story... Just make sure you make sure you made sure you are sure the pulley is lined up properly with the keyway going back in for sure and I am sure you will be fine.

All the guides I ever pushed in or out were some type of relatively soft material (Manganese Bronze). I pushed a few set in and out dry / no lube and they were all fould up. mushrooming of the soft material and poor alignment. Instead now we heat the aluminum and press out the old guide. Then the guys measure and clean the ID of the hole and adjust the guides if needed. Heat the head to 375 with the guides immersed in a bath of rubbing alcohol and dry-ice. This way the guides nearly fall right in and lock down a fraction of a second later. Vast improvement in bore quality and alignment. Got to be careful where the putter-inner tool contacts the guides. Some guides we work with have a very thin upper section where the seal rides. Pushing on there is very weak and the deform easily when beaten with a powerful device.

I replaced the starter, but it may be a direct drive unit. Hoping that is all. It sure was a dramatic sudden stop. But was perfectly free seconds later. Makes me think electrical. I have a race-car like panel with all toggle switches so I can just crank the engine with ignition off and all sounds good. No abnormalities heard, no clanking. Its a relatively new motor so I have some paranoia. If it blows up into pieces I'll just build another one. Thanks.

That exhaust is delicious. My 6-1 with MSA Twice Pipes makes my ears ring... That setup will be an attention getter.