duragg

We're running "ok" and lots of other changes in the car so I am not sure what is doing what all the time. Hence my desire to lock down timing and eliminate it as any potential variable. NGK BP8ES right now. I am ordering some BP8ES-11 (bigger gap). Sometimes I am steady state at mid-rpm say 3000 and I can feel some slight missing. Wideband shows fuel flow is appropriate which makes me wonder about ignition. I have timing back to 25 total right now because my pulley slipped and I want to wait for the new one before I retime and put the big balls back in it. I am running a mix of 100LL and 91 pump gas. Perhaps I will start by shimming the pinwheel and rotor bug to be much tighter on the shaft. Lastly, Appears my system is firing right off the very far tip of the rotor bug versus the center. Need to fix that. Sorry for the big data-dump.

Were you running the "Crane" wheel setup? I worry that the dinky plastic pinwheel in the Crane system is not reliable enough. In fact I notice that around the 3000 rpm range my tachometer needle wiggles a bit (1/- one needle width). That signal is directly off the coil. So either its a problem with the new tach, or the tach is telling me that at times the output from the pinwheel is marginal. The pinwheel doesn't sit rock steady on the shaft. If you grab it with your fingers it can easily be pulled off. Same with the rotor bug for that matter. Even though both are new. Maybe they just need to be modified to sit down nice and tight. With triples especially, seems the ignition needs to be ultra stable and I don't get the feeling that mine is. Help / advice is appreciated. Tj

Crank trigger is the ultimate in stability is that right? Gets rid of the gearing in the dizzy? What are you replacing? What issue made you want to upgrade? Thx.,

This video is just a tease. Idle only, sorry. Plus I caught my pulley slipping so I recalibrated it temporarily and have the timing mostly removed until I get a new fancy pulley and can re-time more accurately. I miss my timing! What a difference at 25 vs 38!. Also with the temperatures changing or the Weber gods messing with me the mixture is a tad fat here. But the TwicePipes have an interesting tone. They ring a neat way and for sure big time growl on overun privided the mixture is fat enough on that overrrun. Too lean in overrun and it pops and barks ugly in the overrun. Had the TwicePipes professionally installed and he cut and welded them for better fit and tucked up nicely. It works.

So it seems like from day to day I am seeing slightly different idle RPM and mixture on the Wideband. Drove the car home last night and it was maybe 90f outside. Set to about 900rpm and low 12s on my wideband (which seems to read a little low numberically). This morning it is colder and I am at 700rpm and mid-10s AFR. Is this all just Air Pressure and Temperature fluctuations? Just when I start to dial it in - it goes the other way... Or is this just the way life with Triples is? Thx.

Funny to see this come back. I just caught the L24 damper on my L28+ had slipped about 5 degrees recently . So ordering a replacement from MSA today. Heard they are a tight fit. T

QUESTION:Is this type of system (Crane XR3000) as stable as any other, or are their better? 1973 240. F54 / N42 / Triples / 10.3:1 / L490-290 cam / Fairly new engine for me (<3 months). Crane XR3000 on my old L24 Dizzy that I had recurved for +20 mechanical advance only. Spins up pretty quick to full adavnce. New slotted wheel, new rotor, cap, wires, and an MSD Blaster 2 coil. I zoom the car around on weekends and to car shows - nothing critical here. Some say the optical thing isn't all that great. I've been told some kind of GM HEI thing would be superior. What is the short-course on the most stable hi-power ignition at a reasonable cost ($100-$250) Thanks all.

Is it a tad lean in the upper area? I know every engine is different and location of the sniffer and such. Just curious. Are you happy with that 14 AFR or is that something you are working on? Reason I ask is my mildly hopped up L28 is loving AFRs in the low 12s.

Just put in nice new syncros about 100 miles ago. I think I remember pulling out 2 springs from one of the holes.

Once in a while I pop out of 2nd gear. Rebuilt with new bearings and syncros 3 months ago. Would a stiffer spring on the ball bearing for 2nd help that? When I took it apart I vaguely remember a different spring setup under one of the caps.

Unless you have a real guru to help you, or have previous experience, or want to learn the hard and painful way like I did... Rebello will probably deliver you a turn-key motor mostly dialed in with back end support.

Yes I moved the Dizzy and reset the timing just fine and the RPMs responded and the engine power came back. Since I last set the timing we reindexed the cam and I have had the cap off several times. I may have just not set it where I though I set it last time. With just an alternator would that be enough load to move the pulley? At 7k rpm I suppose. I will check the TDC mark against real TDC. Those fancy pulleys are not very expensive, probably a good idea regardless.

L28 with stock single row pulley only driving an alternator. Inspected pulley and it looked fine when I installed 3 months ago. Checked timing yeaterday and it is not where I THINK I left it. It was retarded to zero initial. Either I screwed up the last setup. Or it moved. Question: if the thing slips because the rubber is going bad, will that make timing appear suddenly advanced or retarded? I tried thinking it thru, pulley slips back compared to crank. But my brain locks up when I try to figure what a timing light would show.

Bumped idle and main jets up. Reset timing. Pops are gone. Screams to 7000. Power slide at will Twice pipes sounding wikked!

I like that too. I am going to juggle some jets and see if I can't track down any small intake leaks. Any idea what kind of AFRS that car runs?

Got a little work to do yet. Its a fun motor.

Got a little work to do yet. Its a fun motor.

I wasn't even drinkin when I made these... DS1 drive by: Forgive the popping and farting. Lots of work to do on rejetting. Lots more videos under my Youtube acct.

They have a neat "dual" sound to them. Its just going to take some work to get the DCOEs back in sync with the Twice's. A friend did a drive past me at full power and WOW, that sucker is loud. Keith Frank from Yahoo Group "Sidedraft CEntral" is helping me with the dial in. I've been tuning to that old exhaust for so many years that this new setup is just a total do-over. Posting a video today.

F54 comes in both flat and dished pistons, no? I think a big part of the detonation problem is the exhaust manifold proximity to the intake manifold. Its a giant heat-soak chamber. Awesome for changing plugs and oil. Crappy for a nice cool intake charge.

I'm not loving the new sound. but need to retune the webers altogether. Its still loud, maybe a slightly more muffled sound to the loud if that makes sense. AFRs are much leaner. Reduced back pressure? Lower ambient air temps? (70f today) For one or both reasons the AFR is about 1 to 1.5 points leaner in all regimes. And I am getting even more exhaust popping at idle, but I think that lean exhaust pops (13.5 - 14). Before I was right at about 12.5 at idle.

Twice pipes being installed as we speak at the exhaust shop. Removing a 2" crush-bend straght through with a single blown out 18" cherry bomb in the center. Installing MSA Twice Pipes which by rough calculations will have nearly double the CSA or the old single tweaker pipe. Curious to see how this impacts my header temperatures with improved flow. Doubt they will run any hotter than they do now..

I went through the same with my F54 block and N42 head. Not all passage are there and not all line up. I've heard that no one gasket will be perfect for all head / block combinations. I wanted Fel-Pro for some reason and just used what they gave me and it has been fine so far. I am sure the smarter people know more details on this and why I screwed up some how... Tj

That front bearing cover plate looks aweful familar..

I wonder why that one went away to begin with? When I got my regrind from Isky they said absolutely no need to heat-treat or harden afterwards. For me I drive so little and was in a hurry so I went with their professional opinion. (old stock regrind). Since you had a problem once it might be worth a few bucks for a day at the heat-treat shop?