duragg

They were sold out at MSA and didn't sound like more were coming. Get the big ones. Determine what you need by the "method" and have a machine shop surface grind to size.

I could only get .190s and 230s from MSA and I needed 140s. Just had machine shop friend grind them down on surface grinder. There aren't many of the right size around.

My current setup has to be just as loud or worse? One single 18" glaspack under the driver seat and straight back with nothing else. I wish the twice pipes exited over-under instead of sidexside. Are yours sidexside?

Your system have the Dynomax superturbo muffler? Is is loud enough? They were out of stock on the 2.5 system or I probably would have gone that way. Twice pipes will be fun to try and I can get it all installed prior to the big show in Phoenix this weekend. For the money I just don't see how one can go wrong with any of them.

Funny I was just watching your videos before I placed the order. My system now is some crappy 2" stuff with a glasspack in the middle and nothing else but straight pipe out the back. I should have MSA kit with dual glass packs here tomorrow and will probably just let a local exhaust shop put it on. So you still like the sound? I drive the car about 3 times a month when I want to consume pure Carbon Monoxide so I want it to be loud enough to penetrate the CO induced hypoxia.

Bump? Eh, no bother. I just called MSA and ordered their lst "Twice Pipes" kit that was in stock. They didn't have the "Premium" kit. Hard to screw up for $200 bucks anyways.

Cam timing. Please explain in general? I just realized today we setup my new cam at #3 position (so I didn't lose too much midrange?). But the midrange is way too strong and by 6500rpm (at 13.3AFR ish) the peak is gone. What change might be expected in general going from #3 to #1? PS- Having a strong street motor isn't all bad. Running around on the street pounding up to 8300+ sure seems like you would be getting some unwanted attention, but sure sounds fun. This mild-build L28+.040 is a pretty cheap and fun street setup. Will get to the dyno soon for grins, althogh my stock R180 is starting to make some noises already...

Love the motor. Hate the cam. I got talked into a "reasonable" cam which wasn't my desire and I didn't know better. I wanted a stupid cam and now I need to go back and get one...

You still running that Sunbelt #2 cam mentioned earlier in the thread? Tj

Great video. I did relocate my progression holes via CNC drilling and closing off the old "first" hole for a relocated new first hole closer to the engine side. THe difference in the throttle Tip-In response is now perfect. Getting them to respond nicely on the street through tip-in, progression and transition is the trick. MASSIVE ignition power helps a lot. Tj

Sorry to hear your motor does not growl or snarl... mine does, with virtually perfect 12.5AFR throughout. But my tune probably sucks...

Got a few months of driving my hopped up NA motor now and I gotta say its a blast. 10.3CR on an F54 block / N42 head with a little tidy-up, Total Seal rings, Triples, modest cam (grrr). It growls and pops and snarls something wicked. Really something you live with. Feels like twice the power of the L24 that it replaced. Wheelspin is now a problem - versus a surprise. 34mm Chokes in the DCOE and by about 6500rpm its ready for a shift. Having the 1983 style 5 speed is SO much better than my earlier 5 speed with its better ratios. Someday maybe a different cam and slightly bigger carbs but for what? Just to make a bit more power at 7000rpm? The midrange is really strong still (willing to give up some of that). Wideband makes tuning a snap. I do run a mix of 100LL and 91 pump gas for safety and so I can run lots of timing.

Problem is that lash pads were NLA from Motorsport and several other sources I tried. 6 month back order. So I ordered what they had (.230"s!) and had my friend grind them down on his surface grinder. Theres a thousand ways to do it I am sure. Point is to get a nice centered wipe one way or another. With the "3 threads showing trick" his method got my setup done quick and easy. I am an FNG with building L motors so I just followed directions.

He said some old time Datsun builder taught him the trick and he's been using it for age and showed me. Every single one had a nice centered wipe pattern which I certainly verified about 10x over.

What causes that Growl during shifting when you let off the gas? My new motor does it a little, some do it a LOT, especially some of the Rebello cars I listen to on the internets. Under acceleration then you shift and as the motor winds down there is a growly "BaAaaaa" Probably not explaining well. I like that sound. My next exhaust will be bigger diameter looking for a deeper sound. Currenly have 6-1 headers then a blown out 18" sausage and straight pipe to the back.

Poor typing, sorry. "Flip" was the incorrect term supplied by Android OS. Doc510 showed me a quick way to gauge the lash pads needed. First bottom out the adjusting thing and then turn it out about 3 threads showing. Put in a stock lash pad and measure the gap between rocker and cam. Add the 2 and thats what you need. When I did this most of mine had about .020 clearance + the .120 stocks = 140 pad required. All my wipes are perfectly centered with this quick method.

Doc510 taught me a trick to flip the pads. Old fart knows his ****.

I just went through this and got "scared away" from getting the real gnarly cam I wanted to something more people-friendly. I now wish I had gone for the nasty stupid cam instead of the sensible mid cam. I got an Isky L490 regrind which is fine, but pretty strong mid-range. I wanted a lumpy stupid idle and a more wild top end. Might even replace this one soon. No way to say what lash pads you will need until you start to assemble and see how it goes. I had a bunch sitting around and needed to buy a few. Nearly all of mine needed a 140 or 150 which is less than I thought. Probably because the valve seats got recut a bit deeper? But the wipe pattern was perfect with the ones I used and so it is.. If you (or I) go with a really tall cam I suppose I might need to run my tower shims. Isky treated me well and quickly for what its worth. Tj

Changed the coil to an MSD BLaster2 and WOW. What an unbelievabe difference. The old coil was an ACCEL that was only a year old. But my alternator was overcharging for a while and maybe it got fried. Them triples start right up and don't miss a single beat in any regime now. MAJOR difference. TJ

I got my triples to be quite drivable with the help of a Wideband O2 Sensor. 10.3:1 and haven't been to dyno yet. Strong enough on power and I just wanted the sound and fury of Triples. Dialed them in with proper jetting and the AFR is pretty steady around 12-13.5. ... course that was last week and the temp has dropped 15f since then and it rained yesterday so I'll start over today and retune the whole f-ing thing for the entire weekend so I can drive around for 30minues on Sunday. Love em, ya.

Visa. THats the only other method. An excuse to replace all the "marginal" components with new stuff. But my budget for old "R.O.P.O.S" is drying up and my old Benz 560SEC wants new springs and brakes so your surgical strike method is probably smarter.

You are saying to pull over spray and hammer down? Can do that. Good idea.

I think I will just buy a real coil and start from there. Maybe even new wires again. A few areas I know I am weak: Coil, Fuel pump and delivery hoses no fuel return. But with this heat thing I am just suspecting some kind of ignition situation. Leon: Email me and I will send you pics of how I made Po-boy heat shields. ******. < hehe, i said ****** too..>

THanks All. I tried to cool things with spray but it seems at idle or after driving everything is performing OK and couldn't tell. More pronounced at higher RPM. Coil and Ignition box are HOT to the touch. It is 45c+ outside air temp and the air under hood is significanly higher. I was having hot idle misfire running NGK BP6ES plugs. Switched to BP8ES and that hasn't come back. Maybe a BP10ES is worth trying? That ACCEL coil is probably a POS even though it is new. Maybe I need to invest in a better coil regardless. I am not running a resistor. Plugs ceramic nipple thing is white. Shoulda taken a pic today. Maybe shoulda gone with less C/R.

After driving for 30 minutes or hard charging I get mis-firing and studdering under load at higher throttle and RPM. If I keep my foot out of it the problem mostly goes away. Newly built L28 with Triples, Fresh engine with maybe 50 miles on it. Has Wideband and Knocksense. Engine L28 / F54 / N42 / 210psi each / L490 cam / MSA Spring kit. Carbs DCOE 40-151 / 45F9 / 130main / 200 air / Synced and dialed in. 3psi currently with floats precisely set. Have 1/3 100LL and 2/3 91 pump gas in now. AFR on wideband very consistent in the 12.5 to 13.5 range. Have 3 layers of heat shields, header wraps, blankets, but still hot. Ignition Crane XR3000, recurved L24 dizzy with 8 initial and 28 by 3000. NGK BP8ES. Accel "can" ignition coil (chrome) <-- is that thing a POS and overheating? I am in Phoenix. It is INSANELY hot. AEM Wideband is quite consistent betweeen 12.5 and 13 even under load and when studdering. Something is failing when hot and worse under load. Fuel boiling in the carbs? Coil or Ignition module HOT and misfiring? Its either fuel or ignition I guess. Any way to tell which one? Its not like the AEM O2 sensor is showing too lean or too rich when misfiring although it is jumpy then due to the bad emissions.