EastTnZ

Thanks Sunny that's what I needed. I called JCI today and talked to John himself. He said he's never dealt with the TR6060 but if I give him the dimensions that his driveshaft guy would take a look at it and try to get me one made for my application. So I'm gonna mount the engine and make a custom trans mount then get the specs to him. The tr6060 conversion flange to a spicer u-joint from a private vendor online is a 1350 size for the 3 prong setup that this fixed tranny uses. I may get that flange and have JCI make me a slip driveshaft from the 1350 to the r200 because they already have the r200 flanges in stock I assume. To go slip yoke I'd have to switch to a t56 magnum tailhousing and it's shifter location(dont like it) as well as the mainshaft and other odds and ends. Costs too much and yeah for that price I could buy a T56 built. There's a guy on ls1tech who has this setup in a miata and said he would do the same all over ($330 slip driveshaft from somewhere in NC, so I could go that route). Thanks for all the help/info

Yeah I think I'm gonna go that route. I'll update the topic when I get it solved and with pics for future reference. Thanks for the input

Yeah that thought crossed my mind but I would have to add a bracket between the two mounting points up in the tunnel, I just figured it would be easier to go another route. I found a site for the 3 bolt adapter to a 1350 size u-joint ($150). What size u-joints are in the JCI kit and can somebody post a pic of their driveshaft mounted to the r200? Thanks

Good point thanks. I think the cv shaft is an inch of play but they say it's plenty of room for the application but I'm like you in installing it and removing it would like some extra play. Plus the slip driveshaft is going to be cheaper by a long shot. Is the adapter a one off piece from JCI for the rear end or is it something I can get made? I'm just starting to look into driveline setups. Thanks

Obviously I won't be buying the JCI driveshaft now lol but I have questions for the hybridz brains out there. The trans is from a 2011 Camaro SS and bolts right up to my 5.3 and clutch setup I bought from monster clutches. My question is that since its fixed yoke and the IRS is fixed in the back what is a better driveshaft option: cv driveshaft on one end (trans side) with fixed on the other end (IRS) or get a slip driveshaft made from a 4x4 shop? The cv one from driveshaft shop online is $900 so I'm trying to get away a little cheaper than that. I got the trans pretty cheap $1450 and it only has 2k miles on it. Plus it'll hold 700 ft/lbs. I don't however want to swap tail housings due to shifter locations of the t56 magnum. Max goal is 350-375rwhp. I don't wanna worry about keeping extra cv axles with me all the time. This may be one of the first tr6060 retro fits into a z on here I believe. I've got the shifter location all worked out already. Thanks in advance!

That's awesome! Can't wait to see 1/4 mile times and a dyno print out. How long did the swap take?

Sounds good I'll have to do that! I can't wait to drive this thing. I've only felt the power of the straight 6 lol.

I'm hoping to have mine on the streets in June and am just outside of Knoxville, TN. If you're still in the planning stages or just want to take a ride in one I'll be glad to meet and greet and you can look it over. I know thats a ways away but if you have any questions and want to swap info just shoot me a PM. It took me a year and a half to find a decent car for a really good price (250 miles away). The search button is your best friend on this site. That and private messaging others I've gathered 99% of all of my questions answered through other people's trial and error on here. This place is a gold mine. Welcome to HybridZ p.s. it will cost an arm and a leg to get a shop to do it for you like others have said above, but to each his own (my pockets arent deep enough! lol)

Thanks for the fast replies

I'm looking for a used or new set of the JCI ls1 sanderson shorty headers that they sell for $330. I am trying to cut costs as much as anybody else would and don't have the means to build a custom set. New or used shoot me an offer via pm shipped to 37871. Thanks, Travis

With a cam installed you'll need roughly a 3000 rpm stall converter and with nitrous I'd go a built 4l60e or 4l80e as mentioned above. I've also heard of mixed results with the stock 4l60e on long term reliability especially in high hp setups or nitrous applications.

Thanks for everybody that's posted. I wasn't sure if there was enough room to shorten the shifter into the trans tunnel. This gives me more options and I agree there are some dang nice cars and fabricators in this forum keep up the good work I can't wait to see all these finished with full interiors!

Probably not based on the truck oil pan being 3+ inches lower than the f-body, cts, and vette oil pans. I'm also doing a 5.3 swap but am liking the piece of mind to not drag mine on a speed bump lol. I bought a used ls1 pan for $75. I do have a spare truck one though... wanna buy it? lol jk

Here's the XXR 531's with stock suspension installed still (dang cold weather or it would be lowered)... If the picture doesn't work then check my album. Sadly no the front bearing caps stick out through the center so I'm just going to sand them down a little and paint gloss black to match the wheels and leave the chrome centers out of the rears as well and paint the drums black. Currently I'm gathering parts like a mad man for my 5.3 swap and have full bushing kit, illuminas kit, and many more hours of sanding and undercoating until they're installed and even then the 5.3 won't be in and drivable until April/May or so. Sorry but I have got a lot of compliments on them.

Idk if anybody else has tried the XXR 531's but I bought a set off of fleabay in black and they work great so far and no rubbing as of yet. However I only put 10-15 miles on them and recently pulled my drivetrain out to swap in a 5.3/t56 combo... Anyways I'll post pics up soon. No spacers or any mods just bolt on and go. Supposedly 225 is as wide with stock fenders and I haven't lowered my car with illuminas yet (still in box with springs) 225/50/16 falken tires (cheap and don't feel bad about roasting them!) 16x8 XXR 531 4 lug stock bolt pattern (all 4 same size not staggered) only 0.25" space between spring perch and tire though.

I'm 24 and had been set on a corvette since I knew what they were from my dad... He now has a 73 corvette and is restoring it but I wanted LS power (my generation plus I'm terrible with carb adjusting) and the "I built it myself" feeling because I love turning a wrench in my spare time. Fast cars are a must and motorcycles would get me kicked outta the house and the past few relationships or so they told me so I didn't buy one. I recently graduated from college and already had a build sheet for a new vette and the cost to build a Z because my uncle used to have about 5 of them but of corse sold them right before I wanted in to the z crowd. After checking insurance the vette was $2k every 6 months and anybody can buy one, I wanted something to be proud of and have come to learn that everybody had a z car story to tell anywhere I drove mine. I bought it after searching for nearly 2 years and it was $2k but was in good shape and I drove it 300 miles back home from Virginia to Tennessee. I had never even set in a z led alone drove one and I fell in love with it the moment I drove it home. Cranking up 103.5 wimz classic rock I felt like I had bought a time machine. This thing gets me more looks than almost any other car I've ever owned or rode in all smiles here it's the best car I've ever had the privilege to own. I was Hooked on them after I saw the videos and technical swap how to guides on here and thought I can do that. So I'm currently buying parts like crazy and dropping in a 5.3 t56 combo within the next few months finally!

Ok I just got a brand new 79-81 280zx master cylinder from autozone as it was cheaper than finding one in a junkyard... Well the mc is stamped with 7/8 on the side and looks exactly identical to the mc already on my 76 280z. So apparently they've done away with the 15/16 mc and said the 7/8 is sufficient for replacement mc's. Has anybody run across this problem? I would rather have a brand new or refurbished part than have to rebuild it once I pay for a used one. After re reading this I may just take my refurbished toyota calipers (s12+8) and mc back and find a nice set of pads and new rotors for now.

I know I'm reviving an old post but there's not many other options besides having 2 threads open with the same topic... Any new developments in 4l60e shifters (with pictures) for the s30's? I'm in the market for a shifter and really want the B&M Quick Silver but it's waaaaaay too tall. Anbody have a pistol grip shifter installed and finished pic like 280zcar has posted above? Thanks

Any more updates on this thread lately over the past few months? It looks awesome! How'd the wiring turn out and how many lbs of boost? Thanks and keep up the good work!

Very true and thanks for the input. I've mainly been worried I guess like everyone else about the wiring and not wanting to fool with it so I haven't wanted to dig around in fuel injection. I've swapped older SBC's into vehicles before (factory sbc vehicles) so I know the ins and outs pretty well and it would be built quicker. But, after researching most of today on LS1 swaps and the painless wiring harness setups I think that for the money and reliability for the long run I'm goin LS1. Thanks lol, I guess all I needed was a little common sense and persuasion. And I already found a complete setup for it, LS1 with T56 and Harness, Computer, etc... for $3800 locally so yeah it's on! I'll try to post a build for it once I'm completely done for all the people like me that wanted to go LSX but haven't yet. And yes A/C is a must lol, I was debating on buying a C6 Vette or building a HybridZ...I have no current projects going on so the Z is a definite GO. Anybody can buy a C6 Vette but you don't see an LS1 powered hugger orange 280Z everyday... Thanks for this forum and for all the input over the years it's been around, it's a gold mine. You just have to dig the info out.

Hi, I've been reading the forums and searching for a few months and have developed a major list of most all necessary parts and pieces to build my Hybrid Z on a spreadsheet... After the minor stroke lol (just kidding) the total was $11k which is fine not including the car, cosmetics (interior and exterior etc...), and nickel and dime pieces that eat us alive. The 11k includes a 5k crate motor. First of all yes I've purchased the "bible" (JTR V8 Z Swap) and the counter part TPI/TBI Swap Book for more info on the T56 (Which is a very small portion...) and have come to the conclusion that I'm not going to find an answer out there digging thats clear. My question is which setup is preferred if you had to do the swap all over again... As most others I'd like to skip as many hassles as possible and am going to start buying and building in December so I'm planning ahead. Engine -Remanufactured Turnkey SBC thats been completely reworked with 1 year warranty and ready to go $3k or -Brand New Crate Turnkey 330hp GM SBC with serpentine setup from JEG's or even the 385hp ZZ4(different heads) $5k-6k Is the crate that much better or for half the price should I just put in the reman? rebuild is fresh (magnafluxed, etc...) This car will hopefully never be sold so longevity is key and price really doesn't matter I just want a reliable fast Z. Trans (I'm only pushing a max of 385hp and roughly 450ft/lb or less) -TKO500 (not enough play room for an occassional stomp of the lead foot with 450ft/lb??) -TKO600 (you can never have too much but is it really worth it?) -T56 LT1 94-97 (I'm going with a GPS Speedo for $260 so that part is negligible, is this the fail safe choice for reliability?) With that out there is the TKO600 needed? 5 or 6 speed doesn't matter, OD is negligible for me (no rally racing but cruising would be nice) Whats the easier and should I dare say cheaper swap? Whichever will fit the shifter hole better would be preferred (do the adapter plates push the shifter out of range of the stock hole for some trans/engine combos?) And lastly which combo (rear seals from the sbc's) work with which transmissions? I've heard that some pre 86 engines have to have the adapter while others say that lt1 t56's will bolt up with no problems and even more enthusiasts say that centerforce makes a rather heavy flywheel to bolt right up (153 tooth i believe). Let me know what all types of combos you have in your own Z's and what you would do different, if anything at all and which is ideal. I don't post much and yes it's a lot to take in and to type this post (book lol) up but maybe it could be a reference for other enthusiasts in the future and cut down on some threads. The Engine and Trans Package will be going in a 77 or 78 280Z with frame braces, roll cage, strut braces, etc... with R200 (lsd down the road once the car is drivable but not necessary). Thanks in advance, EastTnZ

You might want to check out SUPERTRAPP, this is what I've been looking into because of the issue for true duals in my build plans. A buddy of mine had a '64 vette with them on it right behind the front tires and they sounded mean as heck! They use a screen type baffle system using no muffler. My friend had them custom made for the vette. His vette had a 327 in it (race setup). I thought it had cutouts until he fired it up and it just pounded the ground but the sound was very nice and doesn't clutter up the undercarriage.