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EastTnZ

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Everything posted by EastTnZ

  1. EastTnZ
    Same here, I'm heading up at 7 am eastern time (6 central) and get there around 9 am to the event but I'm not staying the night either on driving home late. It's a little south of Nashville in Franklin, TN. It takes me around 3 hours to get there from Knoxville.
  2. EastTnZ
    5w-30 oil change and no difference after i go a few miles down the road. It starts ticking after heavy acceleration. Other than that it started sputtering last night... Never done that before, but let's just say nearing the bottom of the tank it's a go fast car only or else the fuel goes away from the pickup and was dropping fuel pressure bad lol. Time to go to the gas station
  3. EastTnZ
    Lol I did the same thing trying to bleed it and eventually just stopped. Went outside to warm it up to operating temp before it got down in the single digits and tried to put it in gear and it went so I drove it around and it worked great so if it's not broke don't fix it lol. My exhaust is one single piece all welded together minus the tri-bolt flanges and where it bolts to the heads so I'll check them but it sounds like it's a lifter on the pass side near the firewall. Tried marvel mystery oil to clean it but it came back yesterday. Gonna change to 5w-30 and a new filter and see where that gets me tonight.
  4. EastTnZ
    Ok so after a little time off from the z I got my parts in and installed a new rear main output shaft seal for the TR6060 and tightened up the Trans cooler lines and it doesn't leak anymore! So I drove to the mountains to hike with the fiancé and drove home after that 25 miles or so and it hasn't leaked a drop, finally! Also installed a new pioneer CD player that sounds pretty good too. Going to remove some natural weight reduction tonight, change the oil, top off the Trans & diff fluid, and put a few more miles on it to test it out, and the clutch is breaking in more every time I drive it. One flaw though, a stupid lifter is ticking intermittently now...only after I get on it hard above 3k rpms. After you cruise around below 2k rpm it will quiet down after a while
  5. EastTnZ
    Hope it came with a bellhousing for that much haha and dang that's a lot of money
  6. EastTnZ
    And how much would you charge to make another set lol I'm in the market soon for the compac in my '76 280z Looks good keep up the good work!
  7. EastTnZ
    Speed hut GPS is sweet! I have it and it takes less than a minute then it is good to go. Can keep 1/4 mile times and 0-60 times etc... Easy install and no drilling. Ihiryu on hybridz has discounts, lookup the group buy thread. Good luck with whichever way you go
  8. EastTnZ
    Air bubble the size of Texas... I learned how to bleed it better after a few hours and the Tipton hotline of making sure my master cylinder wasn't bad. I'm gonna adjust the bump stops on the pedal and see if the 3an will work but right now I have a pretty firm pedal and synchros won't let me in so I'll adjust and if no good I'll swap back to 4an then and go from there but a mityvac is on the way soon. Thanks for the help guys. I got to feeling down on the manual problems I'm dealing with and was looking up built 4l60e/4l80e's and turbo setups last night after I couldn't get any pressure built up, and thinking about the thought of having to pull the tr6060 back out for a $200 slave/$1300 rebuild...
  9. EastTnZ
    Between looking at multiple 5.3/6.0/LS1 builds on the first page as long as you search/pm maybe 1 or 2 things for misc parts for the swap it's all there. And the instructions at the top with pics. A noob doesn't have too many to ask if they read a little. All the pm's I've got lately are people gathering parts and where to get mounts for setups like rear ends (300zxt adapters) and different transmissions from the norm (700r4/tr6060/power glide). But I agree it's been freezing around east tn here lately as well and hard to work on in the cold.
  10. EastTnZ
    Weird thing was that when I disconnected the line from the reservoir the rest of it didn't run out. It barely let a few drops come out. So the reservoir never got dry. The only thing that was dry was the new 3an line. The fluid i pumped out from bleeding was dirty after only 47 miles on it and speed bleeding it was easy and was pumping with no bubbles at all. I've got the 7/8" Tilton MC I believe, and it was a stiff clutch push with the stage 2 clutch and 4an line but now it is half that of what it was since the 3an line is installed.
  11. EastTnZ
    Well... I swapped out the 4an to 3an from the master to the slave and after bleeding for over an hour with my speed bleeder/refilling the reservoir and the clutch is actually softer. It will not even let me shift into any gear at all while running. Not running I can shift into any gear. Bigger mc and 4an line?? I'm moving backwards now and I don't get it.
  12. EastTnZ
    Yeah that's what I'm thinking too. I just went off the inner diameter of the stock line running from the master to slave at the slave which is a hard line. And the fact that GM necks down the stock line on the tr6060's near the mc to make people granny shift and in-turn causes less wear and tear on the equipment but premature clutch wear, but that's not a warranty item. This was found out with using a pen micrometer on ls1tech or somewhere else I was researching. I'll pick one of those 3an lines up from speedway too. And shorter! 48" is wayyyyyyy too long. And parts are bought to go to -3AN now, and I wait until Feb 3... Oh and WarlordZ, sometimes when it grinds I wanna go built auto, turbo'd, drag slicks and no a/c. But I like to jam gears and have a/c (someday) too much to give it up!
  13. EastTnZ
    Ok I'll do some testing and see what I can do. I went with a 4an line from the master cylinder to the slave in the transmission. I wonder if a 3an would work better? I just figured or read somewhere that more flow was better and adjusted the nut on the pushrod connected to the clutch pedal mostly all the way out. And I didn't shim the ls1 t56 clutch any when installing into the tr6060. It could be fixed with one of these issues. But 1,4,5,6,R are all fine when shifting into them whenever I please. And yeah I'm semi- in the market for an lsd but wanting to fix my drivability first plus the roll bar.
  14. EastTnZ
    Exactly lol forget I mentioned it...
  15. EastTnZ
    Thanks Sunny and I'll try to power shift it and see where that takes me...it couldn't get any worse lol Camaro's and other TR6060's have bad 2/3 gear shifts and I knew this when I bought it but I can't shift it at nearly 6k then I have to get that fixed. Haha WarlordZ, I really don't wanna have to remove this thing lol it was a pain to get all that up in there Lol, yeah just got engaged and already getting beat down by everybody haha just kidding. Haven't had time to get under the car, been in a cabin all weekend... The Duramax is awaiting the 5" Flo-Pro and H&S to roll some coal when the weather gets warmer too led alone the Z's leaky trans but I'll get around to it. I got the fluid in a little while back (more royal purple synchromax) and a rear mainshaft gasket and skip shift connector plug to remove that. It's one or the other. Yeah I need to let it fly because I have the bad (early <25,000 serial number) tr6060 mainshaft and it could break with a bad rear hop as well so next time and every time I will give it all shes got lol (a whole whopping ~320hp). When I have dumped the clutch I get no traction though because it's still one-tire-fire but that 550hp/tq clutch gets it all to the ground and I'm lovin' it! Still need to come down and get that roll bar (thanks for holding it! Don't let WarlordZ get it!! I'm coming I swear!!) Thanks guys I'll see what I can do once it gets above freezing...
  16. EastTnZ
    Well forward progress should be here soon... I got engaged yesterday and took her for her first ride in the z today! Scared the crap out of her! (Success!) and she agrees that the transmission rebuild is essential to remove the 2nd/3rd gears grinding when shifting. Until a rebuild, no drag racing for me (sorry keith) I can't pull a 2 to 3 shift and it actually catch a gear unless I granny shift and that doesn't always work. And 1, 2, then 4th gear won't even be a race.
  17. EastTnZ
    Looks good and nice job on the aluminum welding! I wish I had the welder to do that. I'd have built a custom fuel cell! You're making good progress, keep up the good work!
  18. EastTnZ
    Haha when he gets a Trans and I fix my leak I'll be down with the beer! And help install his if it's all there!
  19. EastTnZ
    You got it! Awesome! Congrats!
  20. EastTnZ
    It just ran across my Facebook news feed... You do need a fan page now lol I think lsxtv or something posted it and it's a direct link to dragzine Congrats!
  21. EastTnZ
    Looks good!
  22. EastTnZ
    No problem. I have a fixed yoke on my Trans and had a custom slip driveshaft made that was 23-9/16" long including the adapter that bolts to the Trans. That driveshaft is tiny! Good luck with your build.
  23. EastTnZ
    Sounds like a plan to me!
  24. EastTnZ
    -R200 Neapco Adapter 2-2-899-1 with a 1310 Size U-Joint (M8-1.25x35mm) Look that neapco part number up and it should give you an adapter that goes from r200 to 1310 spicer u-joint Hope this helps. Used it on my 5.3 tr6060 build
  25. EastTnZ
    I can't remember off the top of my head but a search led me to it the first try. Oreillys auto parts had it and advance auto or autozone did not carry the gates part numbers if I remember correctly.
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