EastTnZ

Luckily my rear drums were maintained well by the previous owner, however I went and bought new pads for all four corners so I too dread the day I have to change mine out. Another PITA by the way was pulling that oil pan to change out the o-ring for the pickup tube in the 5.3!!! Barely enough room (had to use the dead blow...) for anything but it's changed and went from 25psi and dropping to zero into the beast it should've been at 50psi at idle I'm a happy camper for now. I need a set of wilwoods for mine before I track it. I need to talk to you about the z nationals. I can't take a day off but I may be down on saturday to see the newest ls swap in your garage

I guess I didn't hold my tongue right haha I just changed the oil and kept driving it lol. I'll try it again this week. Vintage air came in today, I'll see what I can do while I'm in the engine bay. Still shoulda changed it out while the motor was out of the car

Definently would buy a separate gauge to check it because my oil pickup tube o-ring was bad and with the rear of the car lower than the front the oil pressure will drop to zero. Any gas jumps it up to 30-40 psi. Funny what a $4 red o-ring will fix. I just have to lift the motor to get to the front bolts on the oil pan yippee... Not looking forward to it. Congrats on the first start!!!

I'm using a sable/taurus fan and even in dead stopped traffic with 95* outside temps I've never seen over 205*. This is also with a 3 row 280z aluminum radiator and no fan shroud around the taurus fan. Fan (low speed) kicks on at 200* I believe. While driving it stays at 190* or below (186* new factory 5.3 thermostat). I did however use pipe wrenches to remove the fan off of my 5.3 before installing the V8 in my z. Never thought about using it in the z but there's enough room for it.

Your neighbors must hate you! Haha any muffler or just straight pipe? Those videos are awesome!! I'm seriously thinking turbo again... I think if I ride in one turbo'd it's a done deal! Congrats on the progress!!!

Have any pics of this installed?? Custom dash?

Do you have any dyno videos or street testing pulls? That sounds mean and your work is so nicely finished. I envy that so much lol nicely done! Makes me want to auto/turbo mine really bad! Can't wait for more videos, dyno numbers, and time slips! When are the wider tires coming in??

Which intake are you buying now? First ever pull with boost? Stock LS1 intake correct?

If you're gonna have to paint it anyways I say no. Your cons are as many or more than the pros in this car and it's too much guesswork. Took me around 1.5 years to find a decent swap candidate for $2kand I drove it home 300 miles. Original paint, engine, no body work previously done etc... You could spend the same buying a $2k shell from Arizona and ship it to your house for the same and feel better about it. Then I also sold my engine and trans to offset the cost so try to get all you can with it is my recommendation. Good luck finding a chassis. They're still out there don't give up it's a blast to drive and it turns heads alllllll day long!

Well I have a small update after 950 miles I didn't know what went wrong with my car. Mainly the brakes and they were fine all day going 450 miles round trip to Nashville from Knoxville to the z attack. Everytime I kicked it out of gear and pressed the brakes it would pickup a vibration through the pedal and the rpms would drop down to ~350 rpm and then catch itself before it almost died. I searched online and this was a brake booster issue. There are 2 boosters (8.5" and a 10") and good luck trying to find somewhere in stock refurbished. Advance auto and autozone were unavailable and I got the last one at Oreillys. Anywho I got it installed today in less than 2 hours and it is a night and day difference! I still have to bleed the brakes at all four corners but now with my hawk front pads I can lock up my fronts and stop on a dime with no change in idle rpm of 800-900 rpm. I went from squish to perfect brakes. Apparently it's suggested to change out the booster every few years but mine was quite old and the paint peeled off the bottom like it had been on fire/master going bad so I'll be replacing that fairly soon. Overall no complaints just a lot of complements, couple handful of offers to buy it and tons of fun taking turns!

Looks awesome! Congrats on the progress! Your tank is already sumped and mine starves when going downhill with less than like a 1/4 tank. I have foam in mine if it matters.

Let's see. You're angry there's no pictures on an unfinished rear end setup that could be the best for an s30 chassis and you're being pushy. Personally I'm waiting on it to be completed at his speed so it's done right and powder coated or the final design with all the bugs worked out. It's worth the wait. I see jacked up prices for your kit lol. Let the man breath I hated my civil engineering finals with 6+ core classes each semester for the final 2 years of college. To the OP, good luck on finals and take pics when it's done. There's no need to rush it, the cars have been out for 44 years (older than us lol) and a little longer wait won't kill us. Props on designing it from the wide array of parts used I can't wait to see the final product! (Now stepping off of soap box)

I went with speedhut gauges for the main two: GPS Speedo (160 mph) and Tach (8k) But I went with GlowShift's 7 Color LED gauges for the triples: Water Temp, Oil Pressure, and Fuel Gauge (all 3 electronic so you only have to run the wires) Fuel pressure gauge will eventually find its way inside the cabin but it's on the fuel rail at the moment. Volt gauge would be nice but I bought a ridiculously high CCA battery and it shouldn't have any trouble turning the lowely 5.3 over until it's completely dead. However like we talked earlier, my fuel gauge hooked up to the GM style (0-90 ohm) sender in my fuel cell only reads from my foam to the top of the tank. Which I equate to around 1/3 of the tank capacity or 5 gallons... So if it reads 1/8 tank then I know I've got 10 gallons or less haha, but I also noticed that under 5 gallons and on downhill curvy backroads that it'll starve my pump so I try to keep it near the 10 gallon mark or higher. It's WAY cheaper than filling up the diesel so I don't mind! I would recommend going 1 size bigger than the triple gauges I purchased (2-1/16"), they seem smaller than expected.

No problem, anytime. I'm glad I've got it for the smoothness and it being a big power holder for a 6 speed but even at that like SunnyZ said it's not quite as forgiving but we'll see once I get it rebuilt. Should be pretty sweet. It just took some figuring out on the driveshaft since it isn't a slip yoke and the remote shifter. Also note that I have a button now for a reverse lockout because it's not connected to my T56 configured harness...

I love the feel of it besides 2/3 grinding. When they hook it moves on with it! I love it but I look like a 12 year old stealing a car when I grind it lol

If you've already got it installed I'd leave it or just build it stronger. It's not worth the hassle if yours is fine. However I'm going to rebuild this one and it'll be fine. If you purchase one of these I reccomend new. Nobody sells a good shifting no problem 6 speed transmission. There's a reason they're selling it. 9/10 are all bad and have issues. Grinding I knew about but it was a "good deal" at the time because it's a $3k+ Trans new. Time to rebuild it and have fun with it!

Yeah I'm going to look into the cost of parts and the difficulty of rebuilding myself. I've heard just takes billion pictures and be careful and it can be done. We'll see as it'll save a lot of money. Shifting is smooth when it doesn't grind. Ran the dog crap out of it today past 5k rpms through 3rd and 4th gear earlier and no ticking afterward so we'll see but I'm still thinking cam/lifters/tune (+75 rwhp)... Back on the original subject, the trans shifter mount was cake, .75" angle and some bar stock steel and a tko500/600 takeoff shifter. Little bit of welding and bam done. Shifter placement is wherever you want and it's pretty nice but you have to build a custom crossmember too. John wants to know how I accomplished it and probably sell it as a kit piece if I get back to him with it but I haven't had the time. Too busy fending off the people wanting to buy it every time I stop somewhere haha Oh and a pro 5.0 shift lever and 6 speed ball.

Yeah I know I felt bad not swapping to drive but I'm still grinding 2nd and 3rd bad on this Trans. It needs a rebuild so bad, I'm gonna teach the fiancé to drive a stick with it first then send it in to get rebuilt haha

Ok, I actually did not attach it to the trans tunnel as it screwed with the alignment of the shifter linkage rod I made. I installed the 4 point bracket and connected the linkage rod. Sadly I have no real good pics of the console removed and it installed. I did not cut out any more from the factory hole in the tunnel. However since it is a remote mount shifter you could make it go wherever you need it to go. I copied a few others I saw from ls1tech and other sites. Not many to copy from though. It's a newer tranny to swap. I figured out how to add pics on here I think! (thanks Keith!!)

Subscribed! I can't wait for the final results. If it goes as planned I'm turbo within 12 months after this potential future upgrade. Keep up the great work!

On my 300zxt axle swap the drivers side was the short one. Your car looked awesome at the meet yesterday and those new slicks are massive.

Ls1 intake $100, new tb $90, used injectors and fuel rails $50. Half of the $500 cost and it looks better IMHO.

I had my 280z sprayed last Saturday over primer. I'm interested as well to see how it holds up over time. It took 3 gallons to cover it in white. And then we put on a half gallon of pearlizer but I'm not too keen on the splotchiness of the pearl. Maybe we didn't put it on thick enough. At any rate I'm happy it's all one color! Haha The spray gun worked great though! It was a $350-400 blue spray gun from lowes I believe is what my friend said. He sprays bedliner and other thick stuff with it. It's electric, so my job was to follow around making sure the extension chord didn't hit the z as we sprayed it. I haven't figured out how to add pics so I have mine on my flickr page linked in my signature. Overall I'd do it again it looks great, he said up to a 3 year life with regular washing and using a car cover.

As the title says I'm looking for used 280z emblems. I bought my z after a guy started to strip it down for paint and i was "promised" all the emblems shipped in a box to me when he found them. He never found them... I have the hood and rear quarter emblems. I am in need of the front lower "280z" fender emblems and the "datsun" & "280z" that go on the hatch. Pins must be intact. I live near Knoxville, TN. Thanks!

My setup is similar to Slow78z's: Sanderson headers to dual 2.5" all the way back just past the trans then Y into a 3" the rest of the way into a borla muffler. Mine is a tuned stock as a rock 5.3L (for now). I'll get more videos up soon but on YouTube I have a video as I'm backing out of the muffler shops garage. Search "280z 5.3 TR6060 New Exhaust" and bidhigh15 is my handle there.