fastzcars

Is there any evidence of tire contact on the front of the wheel well? I know my Z has an offset look to the tire in relation to the wheel well to. It could be that the rear tire might just be too tall. The Z's only came with a 165/175 x14 tire from the factory. I think that's only 24 inches tall. I don't think there is anything wrong, unless you find some cracks/ bent items in your suspension system.

That's great, now you need a voltage meter with a built in ohm meter to really nail down your problem. Without these 2 items your never be able to figure it out.

Well your getting the lights to turn on because your using the parking light circuit of the combo switch. You should have a constant 12v to the large red wire at the headlight socket? I think we have a wiring diagram in the "Photo album section" type in "wiring" in the search. It will show what I mean about the constant 12v's. You know chances are the the PO. probably by passed the circuit of the combo switch fot the heads lights. The combo switch is known to burn out ALL THE TIME. As far as the hazard switch is concerned, without one, you'll never get the turn signals working. Well ,not without alot of rewiring. When I did my motor swap. I decided to just rewire the whole car because my wiring was all jacked up as well. I found it easier to just start all over. One thing you could do is just rewire one cuircuit at a time to get the car usable.

Tri-star. Do you have a wiring diagram of your year car? It would help to explain how datsun ran the wiring. The head lights get a constant 12v's from the large red wires to the back of the headlights. The combo switch provides the grounding for the headlights. SO if either of the red/white or the red/blue wires short out to ground, your headlights will stay on forever. Now as far as the turnsignals not working,The hazard switch is in line with the flasher. So make sure the hazard switch is working , clean the contacts and resoilder like you did to the combo switch. Do you have a ohm meter to verify that the combo switch is in fact working?

That's cool Zeeboost. That mustang owner is a TRUE car guy.

Ya it's been done. One member is Turbo Meister, the other is Silcone Boy. Although they are using sbc 383's not a 427. But with twin turbos' who needs a 427.

Do you have a link to them?

Count me in for 2

Well, the 427 can be installed, but the plumbing for the twin's will have to be custom made. There are 2 or 3 members here who have done it. So it can be done. BUT of course, how deep are your pockets.

For 900 clams , you could by quite a few tool's and do it yourself. A caliper,feeler gauge and plasti-gauge and of coure a torque wrench,are all your going to need. Sure it'll take you longer, but you'll have the satisfaction that you did it yourself. Go for it.

I you already have a roll cage, I would install a triangulated front strut tower brace, to tie the strut towers to the firewall. Also one for the rear that would tie to the floor and the rear towers.And finally some subframe connectors. That's about it. I have all 4 items, and I can jack up the whole side of the car by simply lifting at the rear subframe. It's pretty amazing how stiff it is now.

You could remove the spark plug wire from from distibutor cap lead comes from the coil and set it about 1/2inch from a grounding point, like a bolt on the shock tower. unplug the gren and violet signal wireplug if your using it , then ground and unground the white signal wire coming out of the MSD unit. Every time you unground the white wire you should see a spark jump from the coil wire lead. If you don't see a spark, double check and MAKE SURE you have a good ground at the MSD large Black wire. I think the instructions are at page 10. I just went through this procedure last week , so it's still fresh in my mind. See if that helps.

Well, I talked to the builder, He said the car was at the paint shop, and won't be back at his shop for anothre month. But I was invited to take more pictures as soon as it get's back. Sorry guys. Not unitil next month.

You the Man Paul, Those are great pictures. It's great that you're figuring this all out, and documintnig it all. I'll be getting a MS setup to run spark only for now, unitl I get my feet wet, and then converting a LT1 intake for my 383 first Gen SBC. Thanks again. And please keep us all updated.

The one in the pictures is being built here in santa clarita ,california. It's been about 8 months since I talked to the builder/ Hod rod shop that's doing the work. I'll call them up today to get an update.

Hey, Those are my pictures I took of that car. What would you like to know?

I used some early 90's hyndai exel side maker lights. They have the same connector's as the Z's and the mounting size is off by only a 1/8 inch. I little file fit and vioala. They only sit out about a 1/4 inch. I just went to the first post link. Ya. they that easy to put on.

I was thinking of using that same master, but you beat me to it. Can't wait for some pics. BTW. I did use a single res, master fir the clutch from wilwood. I had to retread the dastun clevis, and file fit the mounting holes. as well as used a 3/16 to -3 adapter for my cluych hose. As far as the brake lines < i would just get some 3/16 brake lines from NAPA. Cut off one end and reflare with a metric fitting, they are the same diamemter tubing. Just a thought.

I like that PopNwood. So true.

I was looking at the Comp Cams web page a nd noticed that the specs forthe stock LS2 and the comp cams 26915 springs are identical? So I started looking for the Specs and part numbers for the LS7 springs and retainer's. I searched for 3 hours pouring through eveything on the net, and couldn't find it. Maybe someone here working for a GM dealer or have contacts can get the info ? Thanks.

The problemwith ceramic boots is that they are very think, and if the header is in close proximity of the spark plug they won't fit. I have the same issue with my hedman tighttube/ AFR head combo. I bought a package of MSD boot ends that they sell separately. And checked my boot ends every couple of weeks. I did use a ballpeen hammer on my headers to get just a few milimeters of extra clearence. It seems to reduce the frequency of me having to change the boot ends so often.

Yes you can use your bellhousing ,but I'm pretty sure you have to get the flywheel and clutch assembly from a LT1 engine car. I think they are from 93 to 96-97 year car's like the camero,trans-am. As well as the hydrolic slave cylinder and hose. Try a search on "T56" there should be a writeup here from Mikelly.

Good going jeffp. Glad to hear you figured it out. Thanks for posting your results and remedies.

How are you getting the signal from the distributor to the MSD box? I think the signal wiring should be sheilded from the sprark plug wires, or your get a missfire. I think the MSD manuel says to run the wire down the firewall to to keep it from getting stray signals.

It's coming along nicely silicone. The only thing I see is the close prox of the brakes master to the turbo. Those plastic parts don't have a chance.