fastzcars

You know actual tire dimensions differ from each manufacturer, Just check out ' The Tire Rack" website. Not only do they have the prices, but they also have the actual tire dimensions listed for every tire. Here's what happend to me. I bought 235x40x17 kumho 712's street tires for the front of my car, They fit great in a 17x7 rim, So when I wanted to buy a second set of autocross tires I bought the same size tire, only in kumho v700's. Guess what? they where too big. Sure enough, I went to the tireracks website and found that indeed the v700's were almost 1/2" wider? So even from the same manufacturer the tire's were NOT the same physical size. Just my 2 cent's.

the first two pictures are my current setup w/ ross's adapters and 300zxt cv's the third picture is from stony I think. He had the rear strut modified to accept the 300z stub axel, and companion flandge. I think that the stock 300z companion flandge is too long (deep) to install the stock length cv/haft shafts in a 73 z. I had to reverse/flip the out cv joint on my shafts to gain the extra clearence to get them to fit my car. The down side to this is that the outer cv joint looses some of it's,for lack of a better term, angle ability. You really should e-mail Ross at Modern Motorsport to get his input. I hope that hepls.

Man O Man I want one, I'm with v8dats, I MIGHT just sell and get one. :shock:

Hate to steal this thread, but to you Nullbound have any idea what kind of horse power difference you get from switching from block huggers to long tube headers? I was thinking of doing the same thing, but if the difference is only 10 to 15 horse's then I can live with that. But if it's more then I would consider the expensense. What do you think Nullbound?

I guess that's why the factory didn't put in rear sway bars. Your also correct in that with a 3/4 inch rear bar, the recommendation is to install a 1 inch front bar to balance out the car. So with that said, your small front bar will probably go well with NO rear bar setup. Oh one more thing, Tires will make a HUGE difference in the way the car behaves. Just keep that in mind.

The rear mounted sway bar is actually made by "Suspension Techniques" the kit comes with new Uprights with holes drilled in it already for the polybushings. They come in either a 3/4 or a 7/8 inch size bar. But since you have 250 lbs springs you MAY not need a rear bar. It's up to the way YOU LIKE the way the car FEEL's to you. Some people like a loose car, some like it tight. Try removing the rear bar first and see if you like it before you put down $200 for a ST bar , they you may remove later.

I think you'll be squeezing the tires a bit to fit on a 8 inch rim, but each tire manufacturer is different. they are NOT all the same physical size, even if they have the same size written on the side wall. Try going to the "TireRack" website and you'll see what I mean. They have all the actual tire diminssions listed. As far as the wheel offset, reletive to the coil spring size, the 8 inch rim with a 5 inch backspace has about 1 inch of clearence on the inside from the tire to the coilspring. It's when you try to squeeze a 9 inch rim in the rear is when you run into trouble with the clearences. That's the reason for the very short 8 inch coilspring. We're trying to get the bottom coil adjuster to be above the tire, to gain inside tire cleareance. So I wouldn't worry about it in your case. A 10 inch spring will clear fine. Now as far as coil spring rates that's still another story. There are alot of variables. I'll let other's here with MUCH more knowledge answer that one.

I moved, I live in El Sereno now. I'm 5 minutes from Cal Sate L.A.

So your saying that the 9.5's in front only stick out 1/2 inch? I was figuring at least 1 inch in front and 1.5 in back. I'll have to revise my calculations then. So the ZG flares should cover you up O.K.. You could put 1/4 or 1/2in spacers up front to bring them out some.

See what I mean!!!!

Holly Molly, Grumpyvette, I wouldn't even call that a "Big Block" That's a "MAMITH Block" or " MEGA Block".

For person on a budget, That brake "kit" wouldn't be that bad. I would trust is better if the adapter was machined in steel though. As far as the placement of the caliper to the disc, you really can't get it any closer since because the pads where designed for a 10.8 inch disc and they'r installing them to a 12.8 disc.

O.K. It makes sense now. Thank's for reminding me. Man I suck's geeting old.

. I never heard of using maxima cv's. Good goin 240z master. I'll have to keep that in my memory banks. Come to think of it. The picture in the 4th post seems odd. Isn't the mustache bar suppose to be in front (closer to the rear of the car)of the rear support uprights? Maybe someone else could confirm this? Maybe the mustache bar is flipped? But how could you install the front diff mount? Man I'm confused!!!!!!

Way to go Terry. :mrgreen:

I was going to ask the some what the same question. When I had the 280zxt cv's in my car, the companion flange fit with the stock rear seal. But I'm a little confused, What kind of CV/half shaft do you have? They look to be from a 280zxt? Or are they from a Maxima?

Sorry to hear that your having so much trouble. I only delt with vintage air, and they were great. But I did spend alot of money with them for there system. Bartman, as far as the hoses. I got the hose kit, installed the fittings at there locations and ran the hoses to there location, then I added a extra 1 1/2 inches, just in case. Then I took the hoses to a place called "Mr Hose" and they crimped them fall for me for $30 labor. That was 4 hoses. It really wasn't that hard to do.

VERY Nice Nazar. I like it ALOT. Do you think the ZG flairs will cover them? I though they would, but not 100% sure. Do us a favor and measure how far the rim's stick out of the body work. That way we can finally lay the question to rest " So how big of a rim fit's a stock Z?". BTW did you already put in the coil over's in the rear to fit the tires?

You know, I was in that discussion of different a-arms , but no one could say 100% what the difference's were?

Welcome to the site LS1 240Z:mrgreen: Did you do the 9 inch yourself or did you buy the car that way? Anyway, your in for journey and keep the pictures and the progress going.

. Your right Dayz. it would change the pivot location. In the JTR manual, it states that the spacers are to lower the engine reletive to the body, thus increasing hood clearence. But most guys here don't use the spacers to correct and or reduce the drive shaft angle. I'm not a suspension expert so I'll let others here explain the effects of lowering the crossmember. I just posted a pic that desert dog requested.

Try e-mailing these two.http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php. http://www.arizonazcar.com/index.html. Hopefully they can get you to the right direction.

Lason, I guess that most folks in this site, probably have had several projects before coming here. I'm not a mechanic nor do I even want to be , but I work on my own cars , and I've had quite a few. I guess what I'm trying to say is that we tend to be a little more critical on new members because we've been" around the block" a few times. It's NOT a personal thing.It's just that if your going to do a engine swap of any kind, you got to know the basics before you can attempt to do this kind of thing. Again nothing personal.

. Hows this crossmember?

Just because HE said he's getting 10.95-1 doesn't mean he"s getting it. You just can't bend physics. I pluged his numbers in KB pistons website , and I get 8.4. The Lt1 cylinder heads have 58cc. So I pluged that in the calculator and I get 9.8. So I just can't see how He could get almost 11 to 1 compression with the numbers he has on his webpage. Obviuosly there is some misinformation or wrong numbers. NOw if you plug in a -19 cc in the calculator you get 12.7 to 1. But you see by adding the minus sign to piston volume you are actually INCREASING the volume the the piston takes up in the bore. In essence you are putting in a 19 cc DOMED piston NOT a DISHED piston. I think that's where the confussion is coming from. NOw of courese we are taking some measurements from the air,like gasket thickness, gasket bore size, deck clearence. So simply substituting the gasket from a 40 thou to a 15 thou, you can raise compression by almost half a point. Don't worry about someone else's claims, just do your own calcs and match everything together as far as head flow , cam specs and compression ratio. They all got to complement each other.