fastzcars

Thanks for posting the find.

It might be a good idea, 400 ft/lbs is probably the upper limit of the R180. but it depends on how your going to drive it. Like on drag strip lauches and drag radial tires that have grip. And if you have a manuel of auto for a trans. Auto's are ususally easier on drivelines. The pilot bolt pattern's are different on the 2 diffs. If you do go the R200 route don't forget to get the mustach bar and halfshafts, as well as the drive shaft( for the rear yoke of the driveshaft) to do the conversion.

I can't wait to see them on your car as well.

Lookin good bartman. Man you got that dash out pretty quick. If you notice the electrical connectors on the rights side of the pictures that bartman, they are suppose to be on the driver side. Just make sure they clear the gas pedel assembly, you don't want to snag the wires with the gas pedal. BTW. I didn't use any hoses for the floor vents, the unit is close enough to the ceneter that the air gets diverted by the trans tunnel itself. When I put the heater on I can feel the heat at my feet pretty well.

Try a 20 ton press.

Sounds like a fuel starvation problem. Do you have the stock gas tank? You could put a fuel pressure gauge in the passanger compartment to verify this. Solutions very, from installing a 280z gas tank to a remote mounted reserve tank.to modifing the stock tanks with a baffle/tank inside.

What do you have to weld? The JTR mounts are bolt in. Or are you using a custom set?

I never heard of OBX? That's a good price for a helical gear'd LSD.

if your looking for the tokico adjustables, they are PN#BZ3099 for the front, and PN#BZ3015 for the rear. If your looking for the non adjustables just substitue a "HZ" in place of the "BZ". The 3015 actaully the front strut for our cars, used in the rear . I thinkt he 3099 if the front of an 2nd gen toyota of an MR2, but don't hold me to that one, I'm just going by memory.

First a couple of questions. First, did you shorten your strut housings, if so by how much. Second if you didn't shorten you strut housingss did you just install the coilover kit and threaded down the lower spring perch. I can only assume things here. But if you didn't, and you lowered your car, your probably hitting your bump stops. You do have bump stops? There's still alot of info we need to know to help you out. I would suggest to wrap 1 nylon wire tie(zip tie) around the strut shafts on each corner. They got to be snug so to not slip back down the strut shafts and drive it around normally for a couple of miles. Then carefully raise your car and see how much the wite tie moved. That way you can see how much travel you are actually using. 150/175 are not that high of a spring rate, it's only 20% to 25% higher than stock. BUT the 8 inch length is probably too short. Your probably coil binding as well.

That's a sweet setup. Man I love MML parts.

Wow, they do look better painted. Now you and nazar have me thinking.

How maney cars do you have, to purchase so many Diffs?

Do you already have 87-89 LSD diff in hand?. I think you'll find it difficult to locate one. I seem to remember not all 300zxt had them. They are like white elephants. Anyway, CV's is short for constant volocity joints. That are located on the ends of the 2 short axels that connect the diff to the wheels. That's a VERY breif discription. As far as changing out the ring and pinion, I would NOT do it unless you know what you are doing. There's stuff like measuring back lash and crush washers.I would do what jmortensonrecommends, I would just get the whole diff assembly and change it all out. It's a bolt in affair.

The input shafts look like the 280zxt. The cv's look like the tri-pod arrangement. They look like they will fit. The teeth seem to be in good shape. I can't tell the LSD portion from the photots though. Great find. How much did it cost you?

Do what Vintage Air suggest's, make a carboard box of that siaze and check to see if it fit's. It think it should fit. You just can't go too far to the driver side, because of the accelerator pedel. One morething, the vent hoses that come from V/A are a great fit for the stock vents. NO adapters required.

Well,All I can tell you is from my car, I have 17x7 fronts with 4 inch back space, and 17x8 in the rear with 5 inch back space. I have run the 17x8's in front, but I lost my turning radius, because the inner part of the tires hit the frame rails and the T/C rods. I have heard people being able to get a 9 inch rim on our cars. but you have to run a very short and stiff 8 inch spring, to get the lower spring perch above the tire.

Obviously you like All kinds of engines, so do I. I like the fact that people can squeeze out so much hp from small motors. From the hondas to the rotaries. It's cool that people can do that. My statement about the motor wasn't to say it was a POS, it was merely that "I" wouldn't pay that much for such a motor. Sure if that particular motor was used in a historic/ land mark car, maybe someone would find value in it. But I'm here to get as much "value" per dollar spent. HS30-H , don't take things so personally.

Wow, I'd rather get a LS7 for that price and save myself 5 grand.

Man I guess no car is off limits. We always want more power.

Well nazar you wanted a HEAVY duty rearend, you got it. BTW that sounds about right, my 73' car is 2760 lbs . And I surely didn't put in light stuff either. I mean, I put in a/c, aftermarket t56, mcloud steel bellhousing,R200 w/ quaife,300zxt cv's. I mean everything I installed was heavier than stock. So a it would make since that a 280 would be 200-300 ponds heavier. Don't worry though, your still faster than most cars,including yours truely.

I would check 2 things, Look for dents in the driveshaft as well as the U-joints. And the wheels to make sure the balancing weights didn't fall off. BTW the drive shaft does have balancing weight as well.

Bartman when you mount the assy, Push it over to the passanger side more. I had mounted mine and had to make new mounts to clear the gas pedel with the electrical connection on the driver side of the evaporator.

The locktit retaining compound I was refering to is #620. It fills gaps to .015 inch . AS afr as powder coating just have them tape off the splines. They have a special high temp tape for powder coarters.

Here's the link to Top End performance. TEP . If you notice the rear strut brace ends are welded and the strut tops are connected to the base of the opposing tower.