fastzcars

If the LSX engines were around when I stared my swap I would have used it. I think you should look for a LS2. 400 hp stock is great. And they'r just starting to show up at the recyclers and ebay.

So the big question. How much for each, and the total cost?

Nice idea nazar on the painted centers. Anthracite would look good. Are the rims and tires yours?

They should fit pretty snug. I'd e-mail Ross again on that one. I've used some green Locktite stuff for my wifes SUV CV's they were making some clicking sounds. come to find out that the factory recommended that the sevice tech to use dht esame stuff I used. The green locktit for loose fitting bearings and shafts. I'll see if I can find the bottle with the case number.

OMG. I love the way that engine sounds.

Wellthe fact that they are billet one piece 4140 chromoly, They are really a custom piece. To have some made would probably be more expensive. And believe me there are some guys here who have broken some stubs. So it has happened. I have a 383 pushing 400 flbs of torque with drag radials.Oh one more thing someone just posted that Ross is making a 40 spline stub. For the really crazy guys. I e-mailed Ross on these. We'll see.

I have to agree w/ tfreer85 on this one " Hybrid Z" and a straight bottom.

That's a good idea. If your not pushing that much power, why change them. I did it only after I snapped mine and I was going to pay $500 for nissan brand stubs anyway, and I said why not upgrade while I'm at it. There's no reason not to run your adapters anyway, people were using them long before Ross came around and made them available. Just get the haflshalfs and get the car running first.

You should check out mikes "The Hulk" He's got some great pictures of his car before and after the ZG flares.The Hulk . If I were you I would getthe flares first. thentest fit them on your car, then measure just to make sure. Like they say " Measure twice,Cut once".

ya your right. You get rid of the 4 bolt flange and the adapter that mas240z gave you ,with MMS adapters. And I think to use MMS adapters, you need to replace the stub axles from the 240's to the 280's. But ya your getting the idea now.

Sorry nazar for confusing you. The bottom link that mtcookson made is the one you want to check out for the halfshafts. Scroll down to the bottom of the page and look at " R230 Available options" they cost $310. I would e-mail Ross at MMS and give him a list of what you got, and he'll set you up. As far as the " Stub Axle" is concerned , no you don't need to change to the 280z stub's to install your Q45 diff in. You can use the adapters you got from mas240z and bolt them to your 240z stubs. It's just that the stubs are 25 spline for the 240 and the 280 are 27 spline, just a little bit larger in diameter. Here's a link to see the differnces of the "stub Axles". Let me repeat, you DON'T have to change the stubs to install your diff. 280z stub axle install . Again sorry to confuse you. I know it's alot of info all at once.

If your concerned about flex I would get triangulated strut tower barces.Like the ones that "Top End Performance " sells. I know that some members here have had problems with TEP, but they'r in my area.I think they make a light and strong set. Don't get the ones with the hiemjoints on them. They'll just pivot around. One thing though, I did have to jack up the front of the car to get the front bar to bolt in, you'll be surprised how much the tower's move when you lift up the front of your car from the center of your crossmember.

Well according to my math, a -19 mm offset wheel at 9.5 in wide rim should be 4.5 in backspace. That should push the wheel out 2 inchs from the rear fender. That sounds about right, although your pushing the limits if the ZG flares only go 1.5 in. I think 4.5 in B/S is the limit for a stock coiled suspension.

The stub axel is the one that the wheel bolts to. Teh CV axel is the the one that the CV's mount to. I think it's just the word "axel" that's used for both items. This is what happens to a "stub axel"

Man Paul you do very nice work, Looks Factory.

I was looking at the links but didn't see if anyone had made a machine drawing of the front diff mount? You know like the one Ron taylor made for the R200's.

where id you find the surplus parts? Do you work in a auto parts store?

I think your going into uncharted territory here. I'm not saying it can't be done, but no one on this site probably has finished an install. If I were you, try calling some of the A/C companies , like vintage air or southern cool ,and get some of input from them. I do think that 2 members here, Bartman for one, are trying to put a/c in their cars as well. But i don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. I'll down load some diagrams from my vintage air system, that would help you in the hose routing.

Try thismodern-motorsports.com . Ross has the setup. He's also got the 4130 cromoly stub axels for a bullit proof setup.

Ya , with the trans already bolted on to the engine. I would recommend you get a engine tilter. It make's it SO MUCH easier to install the drive train. I can remove the whole drivertrain by myself with the tilter.

That's great news. I guess finally quite a few Z nuts called them on this. Thanks for the info. BTW who did you talk to at Centerline?

What year car do you have? Well if it's a 240 then the power lead would be the white/red wire on th back of the ign switch. You would still need your ign key/switch to provide power to the coil. I wouldn't cut the white/red wire though, just tap off it and connect it to one side of your new switch, and cut the black/yellow line and connect it to the other side of your new switch. That way your key provides power to the coil and you just use the push button for the starter only. When you want to stop the car, just turn off the key like normal.

Dave, this is first time I heard that the 240 and the 280 had differnet arms? Does anybody have some pictures comparing the two ? If so maybe some reinforcements can be added to the a-arms.

That's good to hear tri-star . Ya, without that hazard switch the t/s won't work. But keep at it, you'll figure it out.

You know if you stiffen the rear. you won't get as much weight transfer to the rear, and your 60 foot times might drop. By the way, those are impressive numbers on the strip!