Alex_V

(Disclaimer, never owned a turbo car, just have an L28et waiting to go into something) After years of researching turbo setups, Ive seen many that look like a "pyramid" and other that looks like a trapezoid (sp?) but w/o the right side (a slope up, then mainly flat line the rest of the rpms). So whats the difference? The only thing Ive seen (only been paying attention to that detail the last few dynos I've looked at) is that bigger turbos seem to be smoother like that. I don't see any reason why a smaller turbo wouldn't do the same, unless they are just restrictive. But I still don't see why some one couldn't mod around it. So whats your guys experiance? Whats the widest power band you've gotten? I need to dig up some good examples, Ill post them later. ~Alex

Id say you'd want some sort of massive bypass valve to divert the exaust around the small turbo to the big one....think about it, your going to have 400+ HP worth of it flowing, gotta make sure its not restricted before the turbine. Other then that looks like a great setup, Id love to see it done. ~Alex

Yea, youd be far better off just getting a map from some one that has a similar setup then trying to make a boosted map with a un accurate narrow band sensor...Thats just asking for trouble with a boosted car. ~Alex

Why do you want to swap out engines any way? Are you a 1/4 lover? autocrosser? Road racer? Or just want a sick street machine? The turbo L28E you have now can make some sick power, 300-400 isnt uncommon. And its quite reliable as well. Any of the RB or SR swaps will run at least $4000+ at the minumum. But if you want to be diffrent there are plenty of other great engines to swap in. Bottom line its your car, all we can do is give advice.Unless you give us your CC info, then we can send you the right parts.... ~Alex

Id try squirting some PB blaster (or any type of liquid wrench) down the throttle cable to oil it up, then get some carb cleaner and clean out the TB area with some paper towels. It sounds like you have a sticky throttle cable or throttle body, try that stuff then let us know what happened.. ~Alex

DIYautotune.com and MSEFI.com read up on those sites and go with what you think is best, but the cheapest MS kit is $135 and you have to build it your self or $240 built and you just wire it up. But it wont just be the MS it self, you'll need some misc stuff and definitly a wideband setup or borrow a friends. Theres also lots of tunes already since alot of zcar guys run them. You could get a second stock harness while your driving around and then mock up all the sensors and wiring and all that so you can test it and get it completely setup then put the MS setup on the car all at once. How much experiance do you have soldering and all that stuff? Its not that hard to learn, and the soldering iron and solder isnt that expensive ($25-40 plus a couple extra tips at a couple bucks each plus a few for solder). ~Alex

If it was a Z31 (thats 85-89 300zx), then its the same exact turbo as the one your car has on it now. It just has water cooling. You could just as easily get a l28et setup. And how are you going to setup your carbs? any way you do it your going to need alot of parts.

Hrududu-Heres an idea for you. Get megasquirt, and set it up to run the stock distributor, and run it on your car as is. Get it running and tuned. This way you'll pick up some MPG and have great driveability. Then, bolt on the minimal turbo parts, and retune and your set. Put your crusing AFR to leaner then 14.7:1 and enjoy some great milage and great driveability for not too much cash. ~Alex

You can get 25-30mpg out of a VG30E-T, just chip your stock ecu tune it right in and OUT of boost. Lean it out when cruising. 84t-tops- Your going to want an recirculating BOV with a MAF based system unless you tune for it. With a open BOV, it'll fall flat on its face when you shift. Because the MAF measures the air, then when a non-recirculating BOV opens that metered air goes out and the care bogs because its too rich. Unless you tune the computer to work around an open BOV dont get one As for all the performance parts, just look around Z31 sites. ~Alex

Unless your maxing out your stock injectors or plan to soon its not needed. ZXT injectors will bolt right in though,and they are only a little bigger but should be great in a mid power NA application. Im not sure if you need the fuel pump or AFM (the 280Z and ZX use Air Flow Meters not MAF's, FYI), Im sure theres more info, its just a search away. ~Alex

you need a 350z oil pan and starter, and a depending on the setup a spacer for the TOB. Im doing a VQ30/Z33 6 speed setup in my s13 over the spring, I cant wait. ~Alex

Ive been reading all the stock cams are really small and a mild cam helps out alot, with out much lope at all. ~Alex

here use some of my applebutter off my toast to fill it up...it'll harden when it heats up and your good to go! LOL~Alex

if your going to make them do them for the RB25 or RB engines, lots of potential buyers there. An alu block would be neat in a mid HP application tho. But I dobut it would be a popular part due to the cost. ~Alex

nice rims man, send them to me when your done ~Alex

As long as you swap all 6 you should be fine. ~Alex

I would assume you could get a auto wiring harness and auto computer from some one parting out an auto car pretty cheap, thats pretty much all youd need id assume. You might need an auto ECU but being your turbo you'd have to chip it. I didnt read your entire setup, do you have a chip on there now? Id dig out an auto 300zx FSM or hardbody FSM and see if they are seperate systems, or if they can be run independant. ~Alex

why in the world did you install 350cc injectors on a stock NA zcar??? that was completely worthless. Put the stock ones back in, what ever the original problem was the 350's arent fixing it... ~Alex

how much do the coatings run and did you guys just do an inner coat? Seems to be worth while upgrade to my L28et while i look for a good chassis. ~Alex

nice man. I really want to get my turbo setup into something and running!!! ARg your making me jelous. ~Alex

if its a drag car run 9:1. If its a road racer 8:1 or 8.5:1, which ever is available. Either way its not a big deal, Just make sure you cool it right. ~Alex

You couldnt go above 4700rpm with 7.3:1 pistons? There was somthing else wrong with your engine/ecu. You should be able to go to redline with 5:1 comp pistons. You wont have crap for power but you'll still make egnough to move the car. ~Alex

Ah thats what it was, I was thinking of the DETT. All these VG threads got me confoosed. lol. ~Alex

No the DOHC heads wont fit. They are very diffrent engines. I think it'd be cool to use the T22 turbo's off the DETT engine on the sohc engine. They arent that much diffrent. Its really not needed, the SOHC can perform great as is. Oh your from sudbury!!? My grandparents have a summer house on lake winapetae (sp). Im up there almost every summer. ~Alex

One thing to think about with 3/3.1/3.2L builds is how thick your cylinder walls are. If your going to be dragging, thats not a big issue (the engine runs at WOT for 20seconds maximum) but if your road racing and doing prolonged WOT runs then that'll be a much bigger consideration. Also when your running lots of HP/boost becareful of thin walls. Other then that just make sure its quality work. Hmmm 3.1L holset.... Personally I want to do a 3L build so I can keep my walls pretty thick and keep the piston weights low. But then again thats the long term as I only have the engine and no car.... Phil, hows the boost response with 2.8L? ~Alex