piston

go to pick n pull and grab one off any volvo or sabb. save yourself a bunch and should handle those psi no problems. basic standard t3 turbo!

thats a pretty damn good deal for a 3.90 r200.

if you have the 27 splines then you already have the 280z stubs. my early 74 small bumper z also came with the 280z 27 splines from the factory. in some cases, people have got half and half from the factory and one side 25 and the other 27. in my case, this sounds stupid but true, it came with 27 on both and has 240z strut housing on right and 280z housing on left. all original. lol. took me a whole month to figure out why one side hangs lower while on jacks.

looks almost like my factory 260z wheels. or are they factory? hummm? my 74 came with those wheels. its being used as rollers!

rightstuff from permatex is awesome. clean all the oil, wipe dry, run a nice 1/4 bead on the block side and let sit for a minute or 2. put manifold on and slightly tighten it only until sealant squish out the sides nicely and redo the bolts tighter about 20 mins later. worked for my old lt1. never had a problem.

im not sure about vq having better power potential. im no rb guy but i can say the rb is easy power potential. inline 6, more balance, proven power, turbo!!!, looks sick ass hell, head turner at shows, plus im the 3rd one to say get an rb!!! vq takes a hell of a lot more wiring to make it run from reading 240zhoke's threads, while rb has been done plenty of times and support is all over hybrid even though the vq is a sick engine. vq is cheaper leaving more $$$ for upgrades. really its up to you.

its a factory toyota color. i can get you the color code if interested. however you can call the parts guy and also ask for the factory code # for sundance metallic. the pic of the z is a professional finish so its hard to match it up dead on. the color looks metallic but is not, its more of a mica color without the metallic flakes. the color of the z in the pic looks a bit more solid but its under a nice light so its hard to say. the color can be sprayed on base and clear, no mid.

this is very very close to the same color i was going to paint my z before the 09 gtr grey metalic. i found out how much the price was for just the paint itself, i almost crap in my pants. almost $400.00 a quart if i recall from sherwin williams. the color i found was from the 09-10 toyota's. very rare on some models only. call SUNDANCE METALLIC. i went to look at one of these at the dealers to check out the color and it changes with shadows from all angles and glow like crazy in the sunlight with shadows. sick... winner winner winner.

yeah, the bar originally is for the engine bay struts. i couldn't connect the rear towers straight across because of the two hoop support bars runs right next to them. it was either this or nothing. i figure this was better than nothing. i can always change the strut bar and put a smaller diameter 1" .120 wall dome tubing and weld nuts to the end and make it work. im sure this will help a bit if any.

i thought i post some pics of a strut bar i made out of an old one i found in my garage for a 95 200sx se-r. might as well put it to use. i didnt want to pay 80-100.00 for one. so i cut up this one and weld it onto shock tower plates and made it work. sorry, pics are kinda big.

we bought a black top fwd sr20det from venus also a while back to install in a 92 sentra and im not lying about this one. when the valve covers were opened up, it looks like someone straight up lubed the camshafts and cam lobes with some thick black wheel bearing grease all over the cams, lobes, cam hold downs and walls. i mean, there was more grease on the engine then cream on a cake. when confronted, ronald(owner i think) claim it was not like that when it came in and to clean it up and should be ok. we were like, um, no, give me back my money. after a while he ended up refunding it. he then told us to get out if we are just going to look and not buy. he was probably in a bad mood but he was an ass. just last week, i called one of my buddy for 2jz prices at venus since he get hook ups from them. he said, buy somewhere else. i ask him why and he said they had bought a red top rwd sr20 this year and had a blown piston. after pulling the engine out, venus replaced it with a black top sr20 since that was all he had left in stock and for customer satisfaction, he upgraded. installed again and couple days later, turned out it had a blown head gasket although it had good compression numbers. had milky oil! your engine looks a little too clean to be jdm. lol, 99% of jdm motors i seen open has yellow to dark brown oil stains inside head and valve covers.

most of the L.A. south guys love doing this key word crap. even with a ligit ad, i have to scroll all the wayyyyyyyyyy down to see pic.

pretty much your better off going to an auction or if you can find a complete wrecked ls1 chassis car and swap everything from there on. i didnt know there was a snitcher line for haters to call in on smog exempt vehicles. i would hate to snitch out all the hot rods if anyone tries to take me out! hehehe

justin, you keep moving everything back and your car will do back flips eevrytime you hit the pedal.

looks retarded. you might as well put a big lizard tongue out of the grill and a mow hawk on top!

a quick idea that just crossed my mind. how about cutting up the rear glove box area and move the seat a bit farther back and extend the pedals and steering wheel spacer adapter and drop the steering column a couple inches?

with the .58, it should spool stupid faster. supraforum threads says the 1jz take a bit more effort to spin the bigger housing however alot of guys do run the big dawgs but with the high gear rears. thats one thing i dont like about the 1jz, takes a more effort to spin the bigger snails. but you dont need a big snail to haul the z anyways unless you like the feel of a roller coaster drop. now this makes me think how would my long nose r200 3.54 gear perform with a 2jz t67 and r154 trans? in the beginning i thought longer the gear=more boost+longer rpm=more travel= faster 1/4 top speed?

the right key work will bring you the right thread. 4 lug to 5 lug adapter. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151857&highlight=lug+adapter affordable and supposedly reliable. ebay also has these all over. keep in mind you offset must have the correct positive offset to equal the correct fitment as these are pretty thick.

your correct. the 240z for no damn reason is $72.49 retail. however, the 260z and 280z came up with a cheaper affordable rotor for $26.99. someone at our corp office must be on crack. 240z rotor info. # of Bolt Holes : 4 Bolt Circle Diameter : 103 mm Brake Rotor Diameter : 10.67" Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .41" Brake Rotor Thickness New : .49" Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only Center Hole Diameter : 3.19" Height : 2.02" Maximum Lateral Runout : .004" Mounting Type : Type L - Rotor Only. The Rotor Is Mounted Inboard Of The Hub. The Hub & Rotor Sections Are Bolted Together. Replace The Complete Assembly If Hub Flange Is Bent Or Damaged. See Diagram For More Information. Vented / Solid : Solid 260-280z rotor info. # of Bolt Holes : 4 Bolt Circle Diameter : 103 mm Brake Rotor Diameter : 10.67" Brake Rotor Discard Thickness : .41" Brake Rotor Thickness New : .49" Brake Rotor Type : Disc Brake Rotor Only Center Hole Diameter : 3.19" Height : 1.7" Maximum Lateral Runout : .004" Mounting Type : Type L - Rotor Only. The Rotor Is Mounted Inboard Of The Hub. The Hub & Rotor Sections Are Bolted Together. Replace The Complete Assembly If Hub Flange Is Bent Or Damaged. See Diagram For More Information. Vented / Solid : Solid guess the height is the differnce between the two. that is why the hub spacers are also different in thickness when converting to vented z31 rotors depending on hubs being used.

looks like your catching up to me. this is my tank install. i hope i dont turn RB route! lol. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=156578

75 at autozone? might as well get a pair of cross drills for that price. too bad i work at napa and get unbeatable deals. probably like 17.00-20.00 a piece for me.

im using stock honda civic si seats out of the older 91 civic hb. its kinda bucket style with nice head adjuster and you can slide the two harness around the head rest and sit nice on top of the seat area under head rest. way comfortable and maintain a factory look. i have a cage so i gave away my factory belts also. at that stage, i wouldnt worry too much about seats yet and focus on the body!!!

ones we got here at napa auto is fully open not like in the pic above. anything bigger than 1/2 starts turning into pcv valve grommets.

dude, those left ones are original jdm gangster!

sorry but this kinda made me laugh. i can almost say that over 100 hybrid z sbc v8's on here use the JTR set back design. i used it myself on my old lt1 t56 swap. this my friend is nothing new. im done with the v8 scene and the book still comes in handy for my new build.