Drax240z

So did this 240z with SR20DET ever get weighed or dyno'd or am I just not seeing the info? I see a lot of guesses and estimates and little more... (other than john's post regarding Amir's car)

My last experience went like this: Step 1: Soak spindle pin for 4 days in Moovit, spraying it down every 4 hours or so. Step 2: Use nicely made hybridz puller loaner tool. Step 3: Tighten puller all the way, beat on other end with hammer. Step 4: After 4 hours of this, break 1st puller Step 5: Have new puller parts machined out of 1060. Step 6: Continue to heat & beat pin with hammer for a day. Step 7: Use new puller parts. Break new puller part. Step 8: Heat treat second replacement puller part. Step 9: Have puller part shear off threads from pin. Step 10: Spend 2 days heating and hammering pin, discarding broken puller. Step 11: Spend $20 at machine shop having pin pressed out. Another machinist must be found if I ever have this done again, because the first one broke his press in the process. The moral of the story... don't even think about it if you live in the northwest...

6 years in PG here... bring back the spruce kings!

Nice pete, don't suppose you have any port closeups that you could throw a tape measure in for some measureable scale?

I can't recommend the Dynasty 200DX enough, it's a very versatile lightweight machine that will do everything you ever hope to on a car...

Can you point out those threads please? I'll delete any incorrect info to avoid future confusion.

Very tight fit in a Pro2000 for most people... they are very, very narrow.

Mine has held up totally fine thus far, though I am not putting tons of power through it. (232hp, 281ft-lbs) I did follow proper break in procedure and had a freshly surfaced flywheel. We'll see how it is over the next month or so when I install my boost controller and crank things up a little bit. I like the feel of the pressure plate, I think if I need to I might just get a ACT friction disk to put in there if the dual-friction craps out on me. Edit: To add, I've got about 12,000 miles on this clutch at 6-9psi.

All that info and more is available through a search, but I'll be nice today. (and only today) R200 Diff 280z moustache bar 240z front mount works fine No change to driveshaft (on 72 and up cars) No change to halfshafts No fabrication necessary

You lose nothing by trying it, I would shim the TC rod and slot your towers. It will help, it just might not be the ultimate answer.

Hrm, only 1 half-assed shot of the engine in all of those. Seems a bit odd. 1100hp cars aren't that uncommon however, even as street cars. Doing it NA is another story...

I can rip off 2 dyno runs, 30 seconds apart and give you numbers and graphs that vary by more than 100%. Is the dyno wrong? No. The point is that those numbers can only be used for comparison against themselves, and you are only as accurrate as your dyno operator is trustworthy and accurate...

John, what sizes were you running for wheels/tires on the ROD?

Give me a freaking break.

For my use, there was no comparison between results. I had very erratic AFR's from run to run on my dyno with the air temp sensor near number 6 runner. In 3 runs back to back I would see a varience of 0.5-0.75 points of AFR. (ie: 10.5:1 one run, and as different as 11.25:1 the next) Over 20 or so dyno runs back to back the results were staggeringly inconsistant, torque and power we as inconsistant as the AFR's as well, as would be expected. I talked to Ross a bit at SDS, and he said he'd seen it before with the L-series, and that I'd get a much more stable reading with my temp sensor just before the TB in my cold pipe. Now in ~20 dyno runs back to back I can throw a blanket over my AFR's, they are that consistant. The temperature profiles for most of these EFI setups (including the SDS) are adjustable, and mine would not dial in at all in the previous heat soaked state. It was a piece of cake to do this time with the air temp sensor before the TB.

Not a big fan of how they look in the side view with those wheels... Too bad though, I like the wheels on your car normally. Where did you get the ZG's and what do you think of the quality of the part you recieved?

I am also watching with great interest, as it won't be long until I am looking for some 10" wide wheels and slicks to go on them. Those of you running tires similar in size to the 22.5x9.5x15, are you using flares? I have coilovers with 8" springs so I know I can get a bit more tire under my stock fenders than most, but I am having a tough time deciding whether I need flares or not... If I decide to go with a set of ZG flares, is it worthwhile to cram in a bit more tire?

Not MS specific here, but on my SDS I have tried a few positions with varying results. First position was very close to the brake booster vacuum line and I had massive heat soak issues, and very inconsistant A/F readings because of that. Temperatures would be ~50-60C on a 15C ambiant day if I was sitting. Under highway cruise they would move to the 35C range. Since then I have moved it to the cold pipe just before the TB, and the results are very positive when compared to the origional position. AFR's are consistant, and heat soak really isn't an issue anymore. I'd recommend a similarly isolated position. Also, moby smells funny.

A properly fitted cage transfers all the loads from tube to tube, and should do so without any welding. The welds are in place merely to keep everything in alignment, and rigid, not to sustain compressive loading in place of tubing. Tubing is a strictly regulated thickness and strength, while weld filling an airspace between 2 pieces of tubing has varying thicknesses, hardnesses and strength. On top of that welds in this type of configuration will be very prone to having stress risors, and will not endure fatigue nearly as well. All of these possible problems come to a head right when you don't want them to. In the case of a rollover where you are relying on your cage to keep you alive, a poorly fitted/welded cage can become more dangerous than no cage at all. As the cage fails you introduce further hazards inside the cockpit, such as broken sections of tubing, or free floating tubing ends, which will make short work of the human body.

Tuning mixture is what I use it for...

Why bother building a piece of safety equipment that isn't safe? False security... likely to get you killed.

I have a 5 bolt spacer set for sale with 5 bolt hubs, and rotors if interested... shoot me a PM if that is what you are doing.

I've done the club thing, ended up being hounded by people wanting pieces of my time and it got to the point I just didn't enjoy it anymore. I'm in a bit of a different position in that I've owned a few shops for the last 2-3 years of my project. I've always had another guy around with a really good knowledge base to bounce ideas off of and lend a helping hand when needed. But by and large it was a project that I undertook completely solo. And in many ways I prefer it that way, I was forced to learn everything the hard way.

Try and keep it on topic guys... stock boost... T3.