Drax240z

Rear toe being slightly in will help straight line stability.

That's a nice finned aluminum bumper you have there bumble zee.

The problem isn't flow at 40psi, the problem is what does that chevy pump flow if it has to put out the 40psi base fuel pressure, + 25psi boost pressure? I am willing to bet that a standard 454 chevy pump will do diddly at 65psi output pressure... certainly not supplying the volume that a boosted engine needs when under boost. I might be wrong, the 454 pump might put out enough fuel at 65 psi to still support 400hp, but I personally doubt it. Hence the popularity of the Walbro pumps... they'll pump a lot of fuel at higher pressures.

Hey Drew, sounds like a sweet deal. I just have a couple of things to add to this thread. 1) those of you wondering about wheel production, you need DOT or equivalent approval based on destructive testing in order to sell street legal wheels. Off road only is ok. 2) if you want the wheel strength analyzed and 3d modelled prior to the CNC run (highly recommended) contact me offline. You'll end up with a lighter, stronger wheel, believe me!

I got my Walbro new for $114 Canadian. Christmas special.

My best bit of advice is to buy a book specific to tuning your carbs, and a uni-syn and go from there. Tuning these carbs seems like black magic a lot of the time, but if you are patient and methodical it doesn't seem so bad. You should certainly be at 0.040" or slightly more with a high output ignition. I wouldn't worry about leaning out all your carbs yet, increase the gap first. Mikuni's are great carbs, I personally think they are a better design than the webers as you can adjust the accel pump stroke externally. ZR8ED has good info, heed it! Many problems with triples we've seen here has been that the mechanical linkage flexed enough that carbs were opening at different times. Changing jets isn't something you are likely going to have to do until the car is running reasonably well and you are looking to fix a flat spot somewhere in the RPM range. Most likely the jets in there are close. If you want you can pull the jets and post the numbers stamped on the side so we can verify the sizes for you. (assuming they haven't been soldered and re-drilled anyway)

There is no treatment to the best of my knowledge that will 'rejuvinate' an old spring. You are talking about trying to reverse the effects of metal fatigue, something which if possible I'm pretty sure I'd have covered in my fracture & fatigue course.

Relax guys, Dan will get to it. He's a busy guy.

There is some madness behind our methods. In the past there were a few "Hybridz Overlords/Guru's" that figured because they had made a lot of posts and become "Overlords" they actually ran the joint. Just because you make a lot of posts doesn't give you to any more right to be here than anyone else. (especially if those posts are non-technical in nature) I believe that the "Overlord" title is for Dan and Dan alone, because last time I checked he was the only guy that owned this site. Unfortunately once again the vocal minority causes changes that effect the entire Hybridz population.

Lookin' good Terry... Just wondering, how loud is that pump? Seems like it's on a drum aimed right at you! Or do you have other sounds to drown it out?

I've done it in my 240z and it works well, though is a bit time consuming to get the right number of coils off each spring. (it won't be the same all around to have your car sit perfect) I'd say my car is ~1.5" lower than stock with probably a 30% stiffer spring than stock using this type of setup. Still a bit too plush for me though, so I am going to go with some 200-250lb/in springs soon.

Ah yes, Jeromio you've got it right. In my last post I was assuming that you were starting from the point where the strut line/control arm was 90 degrees, which isn't necessarily the truth in practice. Jon, you are also correct. I guess it's sortof a toss up as to what is worse, inconsistant camber gain or postive camber gain in bump/droop. Though I'd prefer inconsistant negative camber gain to consistant positive camber gain I think. (it might be harder to drive, but it should ultimately be faster) Oh yeah, sigmoid? A new word for me.

Walbro GL392... chevy fuel pump won't keep up with a high output turbo engine I am sure. The walbro is just an inline pump, but it can be had as a drop in as well. (maybe a toyota supra spec'd walbro would be good) The walbro's are becoming quite common and easy to find. They are also much less expensive than most of the competition.

Heh, I remember using a 300 baud modem... One character at a time baby!

I'd say the stress finally got to him, but... what stress?

If I am reading this right, you are assuming that the line created between the inner pivot point and the top of the strut (which is the kingpin inclination angle by the way, or KPI) is parallel to the frame... uh, not true! With the macpherson strut setup, you will gain POSITIVE camber as the control arm travels higher... which is why macpherson struts aren't optimal for racing.

Heh, a Feb 29th baby! John, maybe when you turn 12 we'll let you... ah crap, I've got nothing.

The weather here is too damn nice to be inside! I'm working on my Z.

Go for the Konig's! (Imagine's I believe is the line of wheel) I had a set in the shop last week and put them next to my Z and DAMN did they look nice.

I am not certain about the coating, but I believe it goes on glossy and only textures up once it is baked. The fuel rail is a custom 2G Racing piece.

Personally I would (and did) use the N42 intake off the 75 (and possibly 76) 280z. The runner size is no different between these non-EGR manifolds and the turbo manifold. There is also a lot less clutter on those intakes to worry about. As far as my experience goes there is no advantage to using the turbo intake other than the fact it has a provision for a POV if you wanted to use such a thing.

Bah, 5 are enough.

Scottie-GNZ ran 18psi and 1/4 mile times that corresponded to 297rwhp with the stock T3 on his L-series setup. (MPH was 110 and change) I've heard of very few exceeding that MPH with the stock setup, so I would say 300rwhp is attainable with the stock T3, but not likely to be exceeded.

Mark Ortiz has been a large help to me personally and pretty much all FSAE members and alumni. He is a regular writer on the bullitin boards at FSAE.com as well. If you like his articles, then check out Racecar Engineering Magazine, he has a monthly column called "The Consultant" in that magazine. (and there is lots more good stuff in the mag too!) He always has been very personable over email and talking in person and is a genuinely nice guy in my experience.

300rwhp is the maximum you can get from the stock T3... and that is pushing it! For 280hp you are better off (ie: more efficient) to run a T3/T4 hybrid at lower levels of boost.