Clifton

An SR20de has less torque (30ft/lbs less) than a F20c

It's been a long time since I did this but I don't think there is room. The flanges are cheap though and having the flange pushes it out a little more. Plus you need to weld a wastegate out let some where on there too.

A puck disk and stock PP would definetly do it but engaugement isn't the best. I run a 4 puck on my L28 and it holds fine. Luk makes a stiff PP (gold) that might also hold with a stock disk. I don't have first hand experience with that though.

I took this yesterday, it's back in now. T4 flanged welded to the manifold and another loose T4 flange for a spacer.

The stock T3 flows around 32lbs. I guess it would do well at lower boost. Garrett recommends it for 2.0-2.7l engines.

The hose came off of a 3 barbed fitting, looked like one of the pushlock type fittings and wasn't clamped. Everything is hose clamped now. I never had the problem at lower boost.

IMO a GT30 is too small. I run a Precision Turbo PT 61, GT35R compressor wheel with a P trim hotside on an L28 now and wouldn't think of going smaller. The Garrett GT35R uses a smaller turbine side than I have so should spool even faster. A GT35R will also make more power than a GT30R just with the larger turbine wheel. If you want more power you need to go bigger. You can be in the efficiency range on the compressor side but kill your HP on the hot side.

I was until a year ago when a wastegate line came off. Now I'm running forged pistons. The cast ones will take alot though if it doesn't detonate. I ran 30 psi on them for a long time.

Get atleast the front half of the drive shaft. You'll need it or have a driveshaft shop supply it for a custom one. The used one is probably cheaper.

That's crazy. I guess that car has alot more room than a Z. It's about 29" tall. He says he's going to rev it to 8000 or more. Stock redline is 5K

Are you sure? They are really tall, I don't know how it fit under that hood. They also have a 100mm stroke, not real rev friendly. czecho, How much boost are you going to run? You probably have but have you been on lextreme.com?

With that said a RB or 1J won't make you happy either unless you are on boost and then you may as well have kept the L28. If you want torque you need displacement. A 2.5l motor won't be any better. 1UZ's and VH45's are dirt cheap. There are people making 500rwhp with less than 10 psi on pump gas and stock compression, plus you'll have almost twice the off boost torque of the RB25 or 1J. Even n/a, VH45's make around 275 rwhp. If you are set on straight six, I would go 2JZ, just for the extra displacement, never go smaller.

No, go ahead, It was just faster to send them to you. The plate on the stock rubber motor mount is 1/8" everything else is 3/16". It could have all been 1/8" though. I wish I could get a better pic but there isn't any room.

Thanks. The turbo had a different HG. Most aftermarket ones are the same though. If you had an n/a gasket were you needed the turbo gasket, you would know the second you filled the radiator.

tech9, your problem isn't too much fuel. Could be stem seals or even rings as 120 isn't that high. If you suspect the HG, which I don't think it is. They usually run rough right at startup and run smoother within a few seconds and the smoke(vapor) clears up pretty soon, unless it's really bad and then you would be loosing alot of coolant. You can also let it sit over nigh or long enough to completely cool off. Make sure there isn't pressure in the system, run it for 30- 60 seconds, turn it off and see if it built pressure.

Badjuju, pics sent.

$300 is too much without the shifter and other stuff you need. Make sure you get the slaver cylinder too. The Z line will screw into it. Sometimes a T66 with O trim,.70 hotside, other times T72 with P trim,.70 hotsdie. The past few years I put the T66 on for the msa autoX and leave it on until winter when it cools back down to run more boost. ARZ on here has a 7M 240Z and runs a 60-1, O trim, .70 (or .68 can't remember) with 22 psi and loves it.

Get the trans you are going to use. You can only go so far back with the drive train but you need the trans to see where the shifter is. The shifter is farther forward than on the L trans. If you have the motor is too far froward you'll be using a pretty long dog leg on the shifter to get to come out the hole in the opening. The n/a trans is also smaller. If you fab up all your mounts with it and go with a R154 it might be too close to something. As far as how far up. I kept the oil pan about 1/2" off the rack. I'll get some mount pics today for you.

There's a engine pic here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104662&highlight=73 I'm running an R154. Don't bother with the n/a trans. The stock turbo PP and clutch disk will easily take 400 rwtq.

I'm sorry to gear he screwed you but $1600 for brake brackets and spacers? You should have got a local machinist to do it for you.

MSII

A cam improves air flow, making more power. You could make the same power with less boost. You want a cam ground for turbo use (less overlap)

It's pretty big, looks like it would have low range and is DS drop. LS Trailblazer would be a better choice IMO.

A stock T3 flows about 32lbs/min. Doesn't matter what carb, mani, ect. How many lbs/min to make one HP is debatable but figure ROUGHLY 1 lb per 10 hp.

Looks alot better without the balance tube on top. Are those new turbos T25 flanged or is the manifold T3 and T4 flanged?