Clifton

2000 is very possible with a lighter engine if it isn't to be a street car. My 71' is 2058 lbs with full cage, R200, and L28 turbo, and about 7-8 gal of fuel. I know there are lighter n/a Z's too.

The side brackets on the 73 bumper are different than pre 73'. They sit farther back. I think they are also a little narrower were it comes to the body. I cut my side tabs off and welded new ones on so I could move it back and use the same holes on the fender to mount it.

I guess I'll add my tensioner save story too. Might help someone later. Mine didn't come all the way out, enough to get cocked and not go back in and enough that I couldn't get the chain back on the sprocket. I took the cam sprocket off and pulled the chain over to the driver side but kept tension on it so tensioner wouldn't drop all the way out. I used a long screwdriver to push the rubber top end of the tensioner down and it popped back in. It's worked twice so far. I would rather spend an hour trying to get it in than pull that front cover off.

Why not cut some coil off. It doesn't take much and is alot easier than sectioning especially if you don't need a sectioned strut. If you do cut coils do a little at a time, like 1/2 at a time.

The long shot one wasn't 70 as we just got back on the freeway and I don't know exactly how fast we were going in the others posted but he has one vid that I got on tape that I showed the speedo right before he did it. He has to convert it though. The rest were from the digi cam and I didn't shoot the speedo on any of these. If he was on regular street tires he could easliy do 4th gear burnouts. Andy, I can't believe your hp was higher. Nice.

Delinquent Bryan, I don't know what his torque was but usually 7M's make a little more torque than hp. Kinda run out of air up top.

Port design. How does a 7m flow so much less than a 2jz and how does a JZ head flow less than some Honda heads.

Guess I'm a little late. My 9's work out to be 24.5mm if they were on a stock drum. No way I could go in more, they could stick out a few mm more with a narrower brand 275. As far as is a 275 necessary, I guess it depends on the power.

There isn't a 275-35-17. There is a 40 series though. The offset depends on what rear brakes your are running. Stock, azc 4 lug, azc 5 lug, something else with a different thickness hat. An 18+ will rub even with stock drums.

Those Tokicos won't gain you any room. I'm running 9's with 275's. You have to run CO's and 8" springs. Your offset has to be within a few mm's of perfect for a 275mm tire and to fit under a unflared fender without rubbing. I think Mustang 9's push it out a little too far.

Moving it 2" straight back is easy. Anything more and you need to figure something out with the rack to oil pump clearance.

I don't know if the weight saved is worth the money but I would do it over an SR20 any day. If it's for road race and you want to go fast too, I would go with either turbo or more displacement (I like torque). You can make a good handling L powered Z though too.

You never told me you did a 7M head. I figured they flowed about the same as a L head as the power to boost was about the same. Kevin, have you put this on any of the Supra boards? Supramania is probably the friendliest and will let you post stuff in the vendor section without paying, or atleast they used to. Supraforums is another story.

I've read that the Q45 and TT autos are the same. Know if that is true. If some can build one to 800+ HP I would think or hope it could take the same in torque which is more important. Know anyone else that can build the Nissan autos? How much did that company that flaked want to build one up?

I think it's just for the race groups not hpde. I don't have the middle net yet, I still have a few things to do to bring it up to Nasa rules. Here's a local guys net. http://forums.clubracingaz.com/showthread.php?t=1083

I have bar mounted mirrors. I like them more than door mounted ones. Unless something has changed, for Nasa you just need a driver side net and a side restraint net. Not a passenger window net. I wouldn't bother with a window for autoX.

I don't know if you can on those but have you thought about using a trans brake on it?

Check your voltage at the bulb. I know know 240's have a pretty big voltage drop. I had around 10v compared to 13.5 at the battery. Getting the voltage up made a HUGE difference in brightness. If you are loosing more than 1v I would rewire.

I went over to John Washington's place (Reaction Research) and held up one of his YZ flares on a S30 he had and measured it. I didn't have a camera with me but it was exactly 15" from the inner body to the inside opening of the flare. My stock fendered 240 is around 11" from body to fender opening and I fit a 275mm with a 17x9 wheel. The pic below is my flared Z (not YZ flares) but is just to show were I measured at. Hopefully this will help someone later.

I wouldn't say very good, atleast not when comparring them to JZ heads. Maybe a little better than an L though.

There are aftermarket bell housings for the Toyota W series and R series. If you plan to turbo it and make a bunch of torque the R154 is the way to go. 1fastZ just put a 1U in a 4runner with a W series. Thing moves pretty good for a big heavy lifted truck. I lost all my links but here's a few http://www.lextreme.com/ http://www.v-eight.com/ http://www.dellowauto.com.au/main.html

Thanks Dan and Cary.

I don't need the 15" (13"ish tread) but I do need something alot wider than the 9.5" FA front that's on there now. Even with my boost all the way down (18 psi) it is spin city and that's with the E070 (really soft) Goodyears. The 11.5 would work but I can get the yoko's for free or 12.5", 2 year old new Goodyears for less than I was paying for used tires. I think the flares I have on now are 3". If you are planning on running them, you'll have to move the strut in a little to get the tire closer to the body. I was going to shorten the LCA's or go with azc and shorten the halfshaft an inch. I'll send you some pics as I do it.

Yeah. I have some older 11.5" FA rears that have a 12" tread and are about 13" wide overall that would work but I just got another set of new take off Yoko FA's that have a 13" tread and are almost 15" wide. I can make the 11.5's work with my current flare but they are on the hard side and the Yokohama's are like new and can get more if I need. I can also get some NOS (few years old) Goodyears cheap but they are 12.5 and need more flare too.

I was hoping that someone on here with the YZ rear could measure from the inner body to the inside of the flare, the overall width that will fit in there. I'm at 13.25" and need atleast 15" fender to body.