Clifton

Ha, ha, I have Koni's, sectioned struts and coil over. That guy is funny. He should atleast use the same car in his before and after. I guess it's flattering that he used it though.

I'm running 700's with MSII. On a 7M but it's a 3.0 with similar airflow 77 as an L. If you are only going for 30 psi, you can do it with meth and 550's. You idle PW will be better. I've run 30 psi on 550's with a T72. The inj were maxed and afr in the low 12's. Without meth you won't make it to 30 psi with 550's. With 700's I'm around 1.5 at idle. I've run 40 psi with those. If you think you might go higher than 30 psi one day, I would get larger than a 550.

That's not that much timing. I run 20*at 18 psi on 91 octane on my L28, P90/dished. For you to go through 3 gaskets, I think you have another problem. Even 7M's with the there HG problems don't blow them from detonation. A piston will go first unless it's forged. They will blow even on n/a but it takes some time. I have never blown a hg from detonation, even on L's and I have broke many pistons on various engines. If you aren't popping them from deto and it's a sealing problem H20 inj won't help as the cylinder pressure would be the same. I would check for straightness and get a MLS gasket.

S30's are out classed handling wise by just about anything modern. If it's a street car don't worry about a possible, unnoticeable drop in performance. Do what looks good.

It's not the 240 supply line. I've run alot of power with mine. If the pump can supply pressure in excess of what the regulator is set at it has to be the regulator. I'm surprised it has a shutoff at at only 44 psi, especially for a turbo, kinda low. I would have atleast bought a small Walbro.

The T3 turbine exducers are larger on anything larger than a standard (stock) turbine wheel. You won't have surge if you properly match the hot and cold side. Running a big compressor and stock hotside and then doing a 4th gear pull from 2000 rpms will give surge and is a stupid thing to do when a lower gear is a pull away. There is not enough airflow being used by the engine at the boost level the turbo is trying to produce at real low rpms. A cam won't help in reducing surge (maybe a few rpms) at those rpms. A 2.8 will only use so much air at low rpms. If you are going to upgrade it I would do the whole thing at once, no since in pulling it apart twice. Alot of shops can machine your turbine housing. You might be able to find a complete turbo and just use your housing. I know Az tractor and turbo (602-253-9953) in Phoenix sells E and 60-1's pretty cheap, talk to Joel, real nice guy. They were full T4's but you could run a P or O trim with a .63. I don't think he does the machine work though.

BSP is British standard pipe, It's the pipe fitting on your Z. NPT is national pipe thread, what is used in the US. The thread pitch is either the same or very close. The diameters differ a little, enough that bsp will fit into npt but not the other way.

I lift my inner front when under power. Pretty neutral, just a tad of understeer. If I take any more push out it's too hard to drive fast. The inside doesn't see half the load. I've seen pics of JohnC's car lifting a front too. I wouldn't want to lift a rear though, unless it was front drive.

RX7 550's 195500-1370. The tan ones. The red ones are high imp.

You can get used 550's from RX7's if you are on a budget. Only came in a couple of years though. New ones aren't much more. I would only go with 550's minimum and a bigger turbo as you will probably get tired of what you have and want more and you'll be stuck wishing you went bigger initially. Supra 440's are so cheap because it doesn't take much to max them out. IMO the stock T3 side is too restrictive but people do make power on them. The Holset alot of people run might be a good option too. I would think it would flow more than the .63 even with a stg3 wheel. Don't know what they flow on the compressor though. http://cheapturbo.stores.yahoo.net/gatu.html

The trims you listed above are T4 E trims. The E's are good but they will limit you. I guess the 450cc injectors will be the first limit so the match is good. I would go with a 60-1 and atleast 550's, but that's me. You can also get a GT35R compressor wheel in a journal bearing from Precision Turbo but they are more $, cheaper than a full GT35R though. At the time my L28 was a junkyard turbo short block, P90 head. Custom intake, full T4 (V trim), and valve springs, 550's SDS, 22 psi MKIII intercooler. Currently I'm running a bigger turbo and cam but haven't dynoed since. I've only been running 18 psi lately on pump, it's all I need doing auto X. I wasn't questioning that you could tune it with MS, just that knock is the limit for power, not the stock internals. Detonation will break forged pistons too, just not as easily.

A compressor map will tell you what you need for your HP goals. I would go witht he E60 given those choices. If you are stuck on a T3 flange, I wouldn't go smaller than a stg 3 wheel. The larger you go, the more lag but more power. Later spool should be expected though with a larger compressor, if not you will run into surge at lower rpms. If you are going with an external WG, I would go full T4, but that's me. Also 400 rwhp isn't pushing it on stock internals, knock is. The margin for error is less though at those levels.

If you are keeping the 76' ecu, you'll need to do something about timing and fuel. You can use an n/a oil pump. The oil fitting in the block is bsp. You'll need a bsp adapter or tap it to npt. You stock sender will screw into npt. I find it easier to use the stock stock and hard line but you can get metal brake line and fitting cheap too.

It's the torque that's the problem. A stock 1U shouldn't make too much to the wheels. Tread wear is a good indication of traction. A tread wear rating of 340 won't be nearly as soft as a tire with a TW or 180, the lower the number the better it will stick but the less tire mileage. If your stock for now I would run what you have.

I wouldn't worry about low drag, it's an S30 not a Honda insight:mrgreen:. Having a narrow (streetable) tire and getting power down doesn't happen, I'm sure others on here with big power will agree with that. If you are planning 500 hp with a turbo, your torque will be high and there will be more of a traction problem than a 500 hp n/a motor. Go as wide as you can and hopefully you can use a street compound.

Maybe you already know. The longer runner length benefits low end lower rpm, something the turbo already does. It's not going to make more HP, if anything it would hurt it if the runner diameter is the same. It does look different though.

You can leave the perch on if you want. Just take the top spring mount and weld a 3/8" long 2.5" piece of tube to it to keep the coil over spring centered. Then just use a threaded sleeve and collar. I did it on my 73' to gain extra tire room before going with camber plates.

What part?

You need the

You'll need coil overs and some stiff springs. If you are on a budget you can use the CO sleeves and the stock upper if you weld a small piece of 2.5" tube in there. I've done it. I know alot of people say not to go over 250 for regular strut inserts (I do) but I would run 375-500 and big bars. Having soft suspension and body roll and sliding from left to right would not be my idea of fun. I would not run alot of camber in the rear either. It will just kill the insides. There isn't the same load on a tire of a car sliding sideways as there is in a hard corner.

I don't think you will have a problem. I know 1 fast Z is running the Rebello 4" under drive one on his L28 and it is pretty hot out here in the summer.

There's atleast two aftermarket 5 lug fronts, Z31 5 lug fronts and many coil over options.

If you go with an aftermarket non Taurus fan make sure it's the wide curved blade ones. The narrow almost straight blade ones won't move much air as they don't have the motor to turn the blades. I would go with 16".

Got a pic? GT35R's aren't that big. I have no problem getting a T series on mine and other have too and I know TimZ on here has a GT42. As for tube size 3" is way to big to feed a GT35. If you are going with a GT35 you aren't going to need 4" exhaust. They just won't make that much power. I would somehow make it work and use a 3" out.

I just got there 292/282 turbo cam. The price was right but the duration and lift wasn't what the cam card says at .050" Took a while to figure out how to degree it in as the closing was way off, finally went with lobe centerline. They used a rocker ratio of 1.6 instead of 1.5. Kinda upset at the lift more than the duration as I wanted more but they didn't have it and now it's even less. Ask what the specs are with a 1.5 rocker arm ratio.