Clifton

Ya, everything on them is big and heavy.

Bad. Alot worse than a welded rear diff. I know Toyota FJ80/ FZJ80's (awd) have a bullet proof auto transmission and center diff in the T case that is electric lockable but the trans is huge and the T case isn't small either. It is passenger side drop but not divorced. I have never seen a Patrol case and don't know if it is divorced but I think Nissan stop doing that after the 720. A limited slip T case would be best or torque split like the GTR . With an open center diff you can still get torque steer powering out of tight turns at low speeds or U-turns, atleast in a Landcruiser.

Are they hub centric too?

Going down in engine size is bad enough (less torque) but adding more weight too would make the car less fun off boost but I guess it would work.

With even a little research you would find boost and the T3 turbo will be your limit for HP.

Ha, ha, ya.

A Samurai one would be easier as it is already divorced, gear driven, and PS drop but neither have differentials. It would bind up on the turns pretty bad.

You have to wiggle the shaft with the ring on it as far down as you can into chamfer in the housing before giving it a tap. I have bent one too thinking it was centered in there. I keep an extra now.

13" slick and 3.9. I have no problem spinning them in second when they aren't 100% warm. Third gear and above are fine though.

The later Z31 turbo trans are basically the same internally as the Z32 trans.

Depends on the tire. A tire with a treadwear of 340 in that size is alot different than a 140 or DOT R comp 100 or 50. Depends on the gear you're in too. Also torque is more of the deciding factor than HP when it comes to traction.

Phil, what's your pulse width at idle. With 700's I am around 1.3 ms.

The VG30 trucks got the same big trans too. The shifter is top mounted like the Z31, if that's what you are looking for. I would assume the twin cam and single cam VG engines would use the same bellhousing pattern as they are the same family, but that's just a guess.

Sorry man. I guess that didn't sound good. I have nothing against 2+2's in general if that's what one likes, same with ZX's. I just wouldn't restore it unless it was what they really wanted. I know some people get them and other cars because the deal was good and then later they fix up something they wouldn't have if they bought again. I know I've done it with other cars, they were great cars, just wish I put the work into another car instead.

The azc stuff has a different wheel mount to wheel mount than Bryan's 5 lug. Might not matter if there is plenty of fender clearance though. Azc is 1/4" narrower in the front and I think 1" wider in the rear, per corner. Bryan. I figured out what I needed by adding the extra width to what I had at the time (the wheels on you n/a car) and figuring out the new offset.

600hp, but how much torque? A divorced awd t-case would be better then someone could run a LS motor with a 4l80E. I know there are aftermarket divorced t-cases but none that I know of with a clutch or even a center diff and just high range.

I had a vh45 to 5spd adapter and sold it when I got the awd / auto itch. I knew I could run the rb trans with it but I think an auto would be better for me. I was also seeing alot of high power RB guys breaking the 5spds, plus the clutches needed for high torque engines aren't fun in traffic or cheap. I also don't know if the vh45 starter will clear the driveshaft either. The VH41 has the starter centered, above the engine. If I got a Cima front cut I would use the auto with a higher stall converter and just use the vh45 crank. I looked at the trailblazer set up alot too but the trans don't last even on stock engines and would need to be beefed up. I don't know if the vq awd auto would be able to take alot of torque. I know the VH and VG30TT use the same auto trans and can take some torque.

Give me some more time. I've become bored with my 73 and been collecting parts for a while:smile: I knew the G35 was available with awd, I didn't know the output shafts were so far forward, that's a great pic and IMO, be ideal. I might sell my Q45 and start looking for an awd vq35 engine. My latest plan was to use the whole Cima front suspension and the auto trans. Only problem is the Z fenders. The strut center to center is about 10" wider than an S30, you would have to mount them under the fenders but it should still work. I wouldn't even mess with an RB. Yes they can make power but more CC's = more torque and better drivability, ask anyone here if the regret going bigger. Plus it's a little long when you line the output shaft up where they need to be. The VK45's also come with awd too in the FX45's but I haven't seen a pic of the set up. The awd also Cima uses a cast iron diff with a 3.7 r&p. I don't know if it's an R200 or not and they were never imported either so getting one here wouldn't be as easy as say the awd vq35 but they are older so they might not be too much. Skylines use G sensors and hydraulics for the torque split too.

I don't know about Haltech but for Racelogic, you don't need a ring. There are some pics here. http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Traction_Control-Technical-Wheel_Speed_Sensors

I too have looked hard at this. The WRX and EVO are a frontwheel drive platform. There isn't much room infront of the wheel centerline on a Z. Might get crowded. The newer awd trailblazer with an LS would be better but they a driver side front diff. I don't know how much room that drive shaft would take up. I think the best would be an awd Nissan Cima. The diff out put shafts are centered on the engine. Use a VH45 crank or just leave it a VH41. They are auto, which I think would be better but you could use a R32/R33 trans too with an adapter.

I changed the set up to compensate for the extra rubber but it is a little loose. I'll soften it a little.

Thanks. it was an AZC "twin turbo" hood. Those and the naca ducts were part of it.

I know they are lighter but don't know how much they weigh but I would guess that they are easily under 10lbs each. I have to push on the outside where the latch is or they won't latch. I used the stock hinges and latch and a rod to push down to open from the outside, about where the pull up locks would be.

That is crazy. That is alot of work. Was the chassis number of importance? Would have been easier to build on a cleaner body. They did an amazing jog though. The engine looks like the twin plug head 4 on the Toyota GTP cars. Anyone know if it's the same?

No, he sold the molds to http://www.zfiberglass.com. I don't know if he sold the door molds to him or if he sold them before that though. If you can get them, they don't have the tight gaps like a stock door, definitely a race part.