Clifton

I have taken them apart to use different thickness steel inners but I wouldn't take it apart to clean it. As other said above, just use some copper coat. If you do pull it apart you don't need to rivet them back together. Atleast I didn't and it's been beast on hard with 30+psi and no problems.

The 5spd's are really light compared to just about any other 5 spd. I don't know what the 5spd weighs compared to a 4spd but it can't be much more.

No, they were from AZC.

Here's a short video. I had a longer one but cut it down. The quality is bad when they are hosted on boards. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=846776#post846776 Ferd/289, I'll get some pics.

Not to say it's not a map sensor but surge will make a boost gauge jump around quite. If the boost is set high enough it won't even make full boost.

If you know what the compressor wheel is just google compressor maps. There's a bunch online. You'll need to figure out the engine airflow though.

A BOV just prevents surge when you close/ are closing the throttle. I don't even run one on my 71'. Part throttle surge is worse because the volume of air being used by the engine is less than at WOT. No one likes to hear that there turbo isn't matched good but if your hot side and cold side were a good match for the engine, you wouldn't have surge problems. If it's a stock turbine wheel the easiest way to get rid of surge would be clipping it. If you look at a compressor map for your turbo and look at the pressure ratio it is happening at and the volume of air you are using with you engine size at that boost, I'm sure you will see it is on the surge side of the island.

There's a whole board for VH41/ 45's here. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193 They are very pro VH there so you may not get all the facts. Many there believe it was the greatest engine ever created. VH's still use a 90* crank and sound like a 90* V8.

Painted them last night.

The floors are gone, the hatch deck area is gone, every bolt on the car is rusted and there is probably more rust in the usual places. In Az that car would be lucky to get $100. No one would even think about fixing it here. A clean rust free 280z can be had for under $2k. A 2+2 if that's really what is wanted, probably less. I guess if someone had more time than money and nothing better to do for the next 6 months than do body work on a rusty car everyday, it would be worth fixing. Mine took three months to do and was mint compared to that.

71' L28 turbo, 7-8 gal fuel, gutted, FG doors, hood, hatch, full cage, 15x10f, 15x14r. 2077lbs 73' 7mgte, full interior, a/c, 17x8f, 17x9r, lighter seats, about half tank fuel, no spare. 2545lbs.

It's a 2+2. Pull the motor and throw it away, fly out to Az and get a clean Z.

I ran a welded diff with 10" and 9.5" slicks on a road coarse for years. Faster than open but it in the parking lot you can tell it's welded. If it's not a track car I wouldn't do it.

These have about 1" more clearance than the YZ's. My tread is 13". If they fit in YZ's they would definitely fit with these. I like the YZ's more but they didn't have enough room. The fit on the YZ's is better too.

Thanks. Rears are 610mm/ 24.15". I haven't actually measured them though. That's the size on the side. If you ran larger diameter it would tuck up into quite a bit more. They already cover too much of the tire compared to the front.

I was thinking the same but I didn't check to see what I had stock and was afraid to take a chance on how it would effect the rear sticking. I'll try it before the next autoX, need to add some more caster before then too. I'll post an in car video of next weekend in a separate thread and let you know how it does.

I did the epoxy after work. Should have heated it though. Don't know how much it would have helped. It is some thick shiit. I went a bit harder on the tire compound so I can use them on track days too, I have one next weekend. The Goodyears were even a little soft for a hot autoX day. Even the narrower GY hooked better leaving the start than the wider yoko's. Have to be easy on the throttle and corners for about 1/4 run until they get a little heat and stick fine. It was in the 40's when I ran though. It is hard to compare times as the other two EM cars weren't there. There was a CP Camaro that usually beats me and I was faster than him by almost 2 seconds. The coarse was set up for low HP cars though (Miata's). I couldn't hit full boost once . The CSP Miata's did really good. I had a pretty good PAX score considering the coarse (951) Set up changes. I didn't touch the front. I stiffened up the rear from 375lbs to 500lbs. Toe in was set to 1/8" total. Camber was 1.5*, now 1*. Pressure was 20 psi , now 22 psi. I only got temps on the second run so I may have to change it a little but they were pretty good. Balance seemed to be good too but I was slow on the first run, testing the waters and F'd up my 2nd run pretty good and had to be clean on the third and last run so I couldn't push it too hard. I think it has a slight push but need to run it a little more. It's hard to do more than one change at a time and get it right but overall, even with harder tires it is faster even without pushing it too hard.

Update. I shortened the axles 1.2". Welded in new camber plates as I just had slotted uppers, and shortened a pair of AZC LCA's 1". It was enough to get the clearance I needed. It is really close but doesn't touch. I bonded them, riveted, and laid a small layer of fiber glass on the seam. My old ones were just riveted and they never cracked but I didn't want to chance it again. This is a two part epoxy that mixes in the nozzle. I found out it is impossible to hand squeeze through the mixing nozzle. It killed my gun just getting it out of the tube. I hand mixed it. I didn't have time to paint them. I was still doing bondo on Saturday. I'll paint them by this weekend and post better pics.

I would soak it good with WD40 or similar and get it hot and tap it with a heavy hammer. Be careful not to damage the wheel though. If you do bend a blade a little you can bend them back. As far as balancing. The compressor wheel and turbine wheel are balanced individually. I know Turbonetics balances them as an assembly when they assemble them. I have mixed there assembly balanced parts on one turbo and didn't have a problem. I have done it alot on individually balanced turbos too. I know of two local turbo rebuild shops that don't even have a balancer.

Turbine housing has to come off to get the turbine wheel out. Have to change the rear bearing and piston ring. When you put the new piston ring back on, keep the gap pointing up. T3 and T4 chra's are exactly the same. T4's just use a larger heat shield.

The rods are a lot larger. Someone on Nico had a pic comparing the two. The larger valve size is a plus too. I would ditch the variable intake on the VK or the fugly intake on the VH and make a short runner mani.

I agree, alot of boards have a video section.

It sounds like compressor surge. If so it has nothing to do with your BOV. Does the boost needle fluctuate too?

I had pics but lost a pc. Search on here and zcar.com. I know other people had pics of it too and it was talked about. It might of been this car. I remember it being dark silver. http://www.vildinimotorsport.com/gallery/joelsr240z.html

The smaller flares were AZC. Probably the same as MSA's. Back when I bought the wheels I could get a set of Indy Light front tires for around $100. I can't get any more and didn't want to get new wheels so the FA tires were the next closest in size. You can get good fresh used tires for $75 each, not just FA's. There might be better tires but I was stuck with 15x10's.