Clifton

The higher the boost, the tighter the gap. The book is considering 7 psi. I run .022", I run a little more boost though.

The weak link in the R154's is the thrust washer. I have never had a problem but some do. I think it has to do more with banging gears and flat shifting than high torque as people have broke them with much less torque than I have.

I have with DSM 450cc injectors. I trimmed a little of the base plastic off first to give the hose more room.

It is faster and easier to just get a 3.9 diff and change the carrier and set the backlash. If you swap in a 3.9 into a different diff housing you will have to set pinion depth and backlash. Pinion depth isn't that hard if you have shims, a press and bearing puller. It just takes time to get it right.

You can buy fusible link wire or get a high amp fuse. Any local auto parts store carries them. Some have a ma;e push on connector. That's what I did one mine. They look like this but this is a bolt in style.

Just extra weight. You could use tube and get AN/ compression fittings for tube. Save you from having to flare the ends.

I don't know the offset but they are a 5" backspace. A 5.5" backspace would work with a 15" wheel and still leave a little room between the strut. On a 17" you could run more backspace as the wheel is up higher on the strut. On my 73' I am pretty close to the strut ( about 1/16") with what works out to be 43mm offset. i had to trim some off the coil over sleeve. I don't know what the backspace is on those though.

It's not flat but I cut it quite a bit before I put the smaller flares on. I'll take more pics when I tear the old ones off. I should have bought new inner shells too and moved everything in another 1/2". Too late now. I need to shorten the axles and LCA's the 1/2" instead. What a PITA. Here's a quick rear shot without the big flares.

They were $450 + shipping. The are an inch wider than YZ flares. From inner body (next to the strut) to fender opening is 16". The YZ's were 15". Here's a better wheel pic. They are Keizers. Not the best for brake cooling but they are really light and I got a deal on them about 12 years ago.

Just got them from 240zttv8 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113300 . I've been wanting to go wider but never wanted to pull off the 3" flares I had put on. I was running 15x10's f/r with FA front tires. Now I can run a 15x14 rear with the FA rear tire. I'll post more pics when I get them on. Would of liked a little more clearance on the rear of the fender but I can trim it.

The S30 will require a bunch of money to get it even close to being fun and then they all seem to need paint. When you are young money is usually not as abundant. Unless you really love the looks and can afford to put money into it I would pass on it and get a BMW or even the 240sx.

Had azc brakes two (maybe it was three) years ago, anodizing was a little faded. There was another car there with a 240sx dash too. Don't know which would be easier.

Do you have a stock cam that you can check the duration at say .200" or .300" lift and compare.

I pay $90 for a retube using my ends. My current one with them supplying the 1310 yoke was still under $200. Don't remember exactly.

How much?

I wouldn't use Hi-tack, ect on a fiber gasket. You are having a sealing issue with combustion pressure and a coating won't help that. I would run a MLS gasket. On engines prone to blowing head gaskets (7m's), they are the only thing that works. Even graphite gaskets with studs don't hold very long on them.

Hey John, I've never tig'd anything. What's normalized after welding?

I got mine from Too Intense and they also didn't fit. He said the were factory but they are reproductions too. Straight, no curve. I had to bend them to get them to fit and you can tell. I wish I would of just replaced the rubber.

" Frame rails are really bad. Drivers side is pretty much not there." Doesn't sound good. I'm sure there is alot more rust in the usual places too.

One of my biggest etiquette pet peeves. Holding people up in a non race group. In a street group, people with a faster straight line car that hold you up is the turns lap after lap. If some one is on you coming on to the straight but can't get by, let them by one lap. Chances are they will leave you pretty quick. If it's your first time out you may forget to check your gauges. Check your gauges on the straights, temp being the biggy. Being that it's your first time out and I don't know if they have instructors out there. Find braking point references. This is if there are no instructors...Some people can't drive. Don't assume the guy you are behind can pick a line if you are new to the track. He may be new or never been there before either. I know your turbo'd. Don't know what brakes you have but if stock, I wouldn't run a cheapo pad. Your sessions will be cut short and you may have a pedal to the floor scare you'll never forget.

I don't think there won't be this much criticism if it were a lesser powered Nissan 4 cyl going in it. Maybe it just that it's a Honda I've seen CA18, RB20, a ton of SR's and other IMO, worthless swaps on here and everyone loves them. This makes as much HP n/a as any of the previous Nissan motors w/turbo. It's a 2.0, it won't make that much torque, just as any 2.0l won't.

May as well get ZG flares and know they fit.

Ah, I re read your post. I thought you said you weren't into that look instead of they weren't.

It's the torque, not hp that breaks things.

I just ordered the Imsa rear flares from 240zttv8 (Omer) from this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113300 . Should be here in a few weeks. I'll post when they come. Doesn't take CC but does take PP.