Clifton

It's turned into another one of those threads. Grassroots Motorsport mag did a tire test with 285's on a 18x8. Look up what they recommend for that tire, it's far from an 8". They chose that size and wheel because it works in the solo class they run in even though they can run a narrower tire they don't because it works. They did test one 245 and that brands 285 wouldn't mount it was so wide.

For it to overheat enough to pop the cap in 4 minutes, it sounds like there is zero flow. You could pull the T stat and start the engine and see if fluid runs through.

If you are breaking tires loose with 305 ft/lbs, it's the compound. Try something softer ( R compound).

Looks good. Does it hook up now?

This would be my guess too. Is the larger copper part on the bottom? If so I would run it without one and run it again.

Sounds like an alternator but even without one and a good battery it should run longer than 7 minutes. Do you have a voltmeter (multimeter)?

Ahhh. I'm all for different but it needs to be atleast tasteful. I guess it's no worse than spinners though.

Hopefully a mod won't see this as a political topic. You fit this. I think an S30 Z is as historic as any other car of the last 25 years. I know Az is different than Ca but there law is similar. I just went in with collector car insurance and came out with collector/classic registration and will never have to go through emissions again. Collector/classic insurance is alot cheaper too.

I'm putting in a new pressure plate now. If it works I'll be there. Andy said he wants to go too.

What time is everyone planning on going to the Pavillions? I'm busy mid day but can come out towards the evening.

The slave only has one seal. If it leaks enough to loose pressure you'll see it on the ground. Sounds more like a clutch master.I know Autozone sells slave seal kits. I just got one, it was around $8.

You can kinda see the scribe makrks, I just used the calipers against the side of the pulley. The bhj timing marks on mine are far from accurate. I scribed a new mark on the belt pulley.

This could be true assuming they tested which I doubt. They also don't say at what cfm the results are at, to just say 15 psi is very misleading. A 250 hp engine running 15 psi doesn't use nearly as much air as a 600 hp engine running 15 psi.

This one is horrible. The core size looks big but it is split and a dual pass. It would have a pretty high pressure drop compared to a single pass of the same size. This would have the least pressure drop. I would of run one if they were 4" thick. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-Side-Turbo-Intercooler-Grand-National-GN-Mustang_W0QQitemZ370024566558QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item370024566558 I run a 24x12x4, car doesn't get hot when it's over 100* and the a/c is on. Bigger is better as far as cooling.

Measure a lobe. It would be the fastest way to know if the lift was changed.

The SC will give you the bottom end torque. If the hotside on the turbo is small enough to make boost at 1500, it will kill the top end with excessive back pressure, torque would fall off sooner if it's being choked, plus you are already using a little power to drive the sc. Bob Norwood did one with a 1mz (I think) Toyota engine, it was a few years back (maybe 5) but it was in Turbo magazine. They had dyno graphs too. I'm not trying to down your project, it's pretty cool.

Pretty cool on a Z. That header is really nice too. I saw a supercharged/ turboed WRX a few years ago. He ran a pretty big turbo (for a 2.0) and used a positive displacement SC to make boost before the turbo came on which for that would be atleast 5K. If I remember right, the turbo was a T66 or 67.

If the tires are for autoX only, I would go with V710's or A6's. I would look at tire sizes and prices before deciding on a wheel. Tire rack has both. I wouldn't run a street tire (treadwear above 140) for autoX. I wouldn't even do it on a weekend Z.

I mounted them to the back. I'll post a few pics later.

I run the BHJ single pulley ( Rebello one) with SDS magnets. I have the street one, larger pulley. There was no problem mounting them and getting the trigger in there as it's about 5" in diameter.

I've seen them on 73's and 74's. 74's had the larger ex valves.

You are correct, no launch control w edis. If you have MS control 3 coils you need to add two more drivers but it isn't too hard.

Even if you went edis you could use the 7m coils, but they do have a code for Toyota. There's two triggers and I already went edis so I didn't look into it too much.

Edis/36-1 wheel. When I did it they didn't have the code to use the Toyota trigger. If you go edis use a n/a pulley, they have two threaded hole on the front that are flush and would make the pulley bolt on. The gte pulley is a little different and the holes sit in alot deeper. I had to have the front of my pulley machined and then press the wheel on.

Of coarse a turbo SR would have more torque but n/a too n/a the FC is a much better engine.