Clifton

I would have it surfaced but you could do it yourself. Get something flat, I've used square tubing and put some sand paper on it. You can get spray adhesive if you don't have sticky back paper. It's a small area if you aren't removing much material. I did it on a turbo manifold and put another 60k on it with out a leak.

Yeah. I ran some 550's in it for a few days and didn't have the hot start problem. I may have just needed more time for it to show up again or I have a bad 700c injector.

3530lbs http://trdsupra.com/library/A70WeightIndex.xls

I just run a stock turbo oil pump, it's been fine for me but shimming it is easy as it's outside the pan. Start small. I wouldn't pay Kameari to do it.

It is 12.25" from the ground to the top of that crossmember. I don't know how much these cars settle with an engine and interior but I would think it would go down a bit. I also measured the top of the strut on the engine side (lowest point) to the ground. It was 31".

I definitely agree with your 1-5 list, but you don't need forged internals to get away with 30 psi especially with c16. Most on here will do the 1,2, and 4 but not the big turbo and big boost, which is exactly what he did in the vid.

2 and 3 are the easiest.

I would check the ohms first. Make sure it's not zero. Injectors that have sat a while can stick. I have had it happen on rebuilts that sat for only a year. Ran them for a few minutes with a really rough idle and they unstuck. Had it happen on others too and did the same, let them run for a while(5-10 minutes). Never had one not come loose.

I guess I'm a little late as you found they are the same model. The ratios aren't exactly the same though. I know first is a little shorter. I can't remember the rest or the ratios. I also don't think they are shorter but the shifter is in the trans, like an earlier Z. Would make the swap alot easier in an S30 with out the extended shifter.

You had knock with 20 psi and 12* total or at idle?

What was Phils timing? What octane was Phil running? What turbo was he running? If you have deto on stock pistons you will have it on a forged bottom end too and it still won't last.

The ET isn't impressive to me as it's an auto and I'm not a 60', 1/4 mile guy but mph takes HP and a good launch will only go so far. To those that think 24 psi or 28 on a stock block (pistons) is alot, it's not. Cylinder pressure is your only limit (detonation). As long as it doesn't knock it will last. You can control timing and octane. Anyone on here could do the same and run the same trap speeds he did. He is running a big turbo which most on here won't (fear of lag) and big boost which most are afraid to do because they were told it's dangerous. Do that and just add fuel. I wouldn't run 550's with a stock ecu but that might of been all that was left in his budget.

Mine idles lean after 1/2 hr plus restarts. I ended up setting my idle fuel very rich (11.0) and then let the wideband setting pull it back to 13.0. It won't idle smooth in the 14 or even 15's like the stock ecu did. It works as a band aid fix. I'm running the flyback and want to go to resistors to rule out a problem there. It may also be an injector problem on mine but I do miss the stock ecu at times.

If you are still looking, some one on here would know. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193 If you find out the deck height please post here. I don't think there is a diffeence though as atleast one guy on there used a VH45 crank in a VH41.

After looking at Justins first pic I see what you are talking about. I will measure it this weekend.

I didn't see this until now. I haven't even pulled my VH from the parts car yet. I did find they made an awd version though:icon15: Go here http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193 . I know gs14racer on there is using the Mazworx adapter.

So 600 hp on stock rods is possible as long as it is not an endurance road race car being spun at 6-8k for hours on end. Perfect, as Bryans car is a street car. If I had the financial backing Electramitive had I would not use stock rods either or even cranks. Money makes those decisions alot easier. I may be wrong, let me know, but I would think that Bryans engine only seeing 17 psi would be less detrimental to longivity than say another engine seeing 22 psi (mine) and making less horsepower but similar torque. The load on the internals would be the same at peak torque, his just breathes better up top making more power. I would also think 22 psi would easily have him to 600 crank. I ran 22 psi when I road raced and never had a rod failure and it saw some revs.

That was on SF awhile ago. Nice power band:(. Supposedly it was a head gasket that let go on the third pull.

Why did they say it wouldn't work? Dave at AZC used to run a blow through with his manifolds along time ago. The first turbo Z (2fiddy's car) I had a ride in had one on it too.

Ya. That's why I'm not sure of when the boost comes on. I can't drive it on the street around here to check when it comes on. Too much traffic and it kinda stands out.

Above 4k it makes boost fast. I don't think it got below that other than the start. It's a 30 psi gauge. The first white number is 0, then 10, 20, and 30. Boost was set to 18 psi. I put a few pics in the begining. Here's the a vid. http://media.putfile.com/71-240Z

I have video, just trying to figure out were the lowest rpm I'm at when it comes on. Most of the time my revs are up. I'll see if someone can host it full size so you can see. On the O trim, .58. I would not do it. There really isn't a need to have full boost below 3000 rpms. If the compressor is suited for higher horsepower it will surge in the higher gears at those rpms. I've done it with a O trim .70 P T66 in 4th at 3500 rpms. If it were an n/a car one wouldn't expect much below 3500. Same should be expected for a decent sized turbo.

600 HP is all the stock rods are supposed to be good for? Hmm. I remember when people said that about stock 2JZ pistons and rods a few years back. Now people make an easy 800+rwhp on them. My 91mm stroked 7m with a rod that can't be any stronger than an L rod has been easily doing more than that for years. Bryan, I would talk to Joel. It might not be too much to buy just the cold sides you want.

It depends on what you are doing with the car. IMO, if it is a 400rwhp track car I wouldn't even think about stock brakes or Z31 brakes. If it is has a mild engine and see's only street and auto X, I would run stock brakes with a decent pad. If it is in between or has boost, I would atleast run the Z31 vented/ toy caliper. I wouldn't even mess with a solid rotor and Toy caliper. The problem is the solid rotor.

I've seen video of some of those Dubai Patrols. They were newer ones. Not L powered but fast as fck. Those MK4 ct's are barely good for 500 rwhp.