Clifton

I have run a stock cam/lash pads with the deep aftermarket retainers. I had to grind a tiny amount (maybe .020-.040" tops) off the bottom of the rocker arm. I am still running the same arms and they have seen 7500 more than most cars and never had a problem. I wouldn't shave the head, just turn the boost up a few psi more and run a little more timing before peak boost.

I've used two HF guns. One suction only and one with the pressure tank. The pressure tank is 100 times better.

If you aren't set on your media, I used silica sand from Home Depot. It's like $6 for 100lbs. Worked great.

Adding a thicker head gasket will advance the valve timing some and then you advanced it a little more on the gear. Typically advancing adds bottom end, while retarding gives top end. The cam I just got had some advance in it already. If yours did too you may just be to far advanced. I would get a degree wheel and check it.

They are wheels

I would use a shorter 10mm hex. I don't know how much torque is lost in that length, maybe none. I always get some slack on the tension side of the chain before I stuff thew wood in there. The extra slack makes it alot easier when you put the cam sprocket back on. You can turn the cam a little to line them up but don't touch the crank.

I would say I would miss you but being that this is your first post, we didn't even know you.

It's lean if it's coming out the carb. If it's only at idle, I'm pretty sure Holleys have idle screws to adjust fuel on the idle circuit.

I don't have the answer to that but if you are still in AZ and it isn't your daily driver you can get collector car insurance, run with no cat (straight pipe) and never have to go through emissions again. Full coverage CC insurance is way cheaper than liability too.

If you are going to run a turbo that others on here haven't run I would learn about them a little more. The T70 on ebay should use a 70mm inducer on the compressor wheel instead of the 60.5mm on it uses. It also uses a P trim wheel, with a .84 hotside, you will have quite a bit of lag ( a high boost threshold if TonyD is reading:D). The Ebay 60-1 should use a 60mm wheel not a 57T, whatever that is. If you are tyring to save a buck I would do the Holset as people on here can tell you were it will come on at and it is T3 flanged. For full T4, I know an O trim with a .68-70 hotside or P trim with a .58 hotside will spool fast on a L28, you pick the compressor wheel for you HP goals but I would run a 60-1 for what you want, the injectors you have will limit your power first.

We plan on going to the drags in two weeks. I'll get some vid before we get booted out

Thanks. Bryan, the pics are on there site. They take them almost every event. http://www.pbase.com/rsrock/autocross Theye are on the main page, then under event details. They keep all the times there too.

$100 each is pretty cheap for a decent tire. The R888's are out, just not in your size. Have you looked at the Nitto NT-01, they have them in your size. They are R comps also. GRM did a test on them a few issues back. http://bandmzcars.com/RadiatorPage.html I know Discount carries them, they even had them on Ebay for a while.

1 Fast Z sells them too. http://bandmzcars.com/RadiatorPage.html

3" would be better but I wouldn't worry. 300-325 rwhp on a small motor (2.5l) is probably less than 300 ft/lbs tq.

Not here. For some reason what a cop says is believed to be the truth, you must prove it other wise. It's not what you know, but what you can prove. I couldn't prove he was lying so I paid my $127 ticket, one day missed work, 2 years increases insurance.

I've been breathalized too. I doubt he smelt alcohol, cops lie and need a reason to test you. I don't drink at all and my wife hadn't had any that night but he was sure he smelt it just as sure as he was that I was speeding, even though I just passed him on the side of the road 1/4 back and new he was there with his buddies. I offered to take the breath test but he made me play his cordination game first, then after passing that (obviously) he decided to make me blow, then wrote me a BS speeding ticket that I later lost, as you can't prove that a cop is lying unless there is video.

I use Locktight green, recommended by my machinist, seals and holds them in, gotta be clean though. The plugs are brass. I also run a 24 psi cap and have had it pretty hot many times (220+) while road racing and haven't had any problems and I'm sure the pressure is up there.

My biggest fear are door dings. Atleast if someone hits me I know who to kill I reallt don't think too many are concerned about the what ifs, if I get in a low speed bump. Chances are "IF" it ever does happen it will be with something bigger than an S30 Z as just about everything is and it will take out your tail light panel or dent you hood anyways. I don't think a bumper would have helped here, just would have been one more damaged item. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110600

Bumpers aren't there to protect you, just to keep car damage in down 5 mph bumps, later was raised but not much. If you want safe get a big Japanese SUV

Great video, like the music too. Nice that you cut the music a few times to hear just the engine.

http://arizonazcar.com/inject.html

Ya that's Bryan's car.

That would be cool. I've thought about Tucson for autoX but towing it down there and back is alot more expensive when I can do it here. I would go down there if a bunch of Z's were going though. John, I plan to go with the FA rears too. Just didn't have time to widen my current wheels. I let you know when I get them on there.

Ya, I guess these are pretty gummy. It's been so long I guess I couldn't remember how hard those yokos were. I never ran them on the same track I used to run the Firestones on to compare. From what I've read a 1230lb FA car is around 3200lbs with full downforce. Don't know how true it is but based on that I went as soft as they made. What did you end up going with after the Yokos?