Clifton

http://arizonazcar.com/piston.html

Nice. What's the specs? Turbo, boost, c.i, timing control, ect, .

Many high mileage turbo desiels out there. My Z31t has 208k miles on it and has ben pretty good so far.

I was happy with my set up but I went with a larger turbo and now miss the torque I had at lower rpms, although the power is great once it's going. The torque isn't bad but without boost small motors aren't stump pullers. A larger engine with the same turbo (T72) and power potential, I will have a larger usable power band. Concerning a 7M and 5.0. If they are both equally prepard, both turboed, the 5.0 will make more power and would be a better choice IMO, it's the dispacement thing. A completely stock 7M (stock turbo, fuel, ect) with just a little more boost is good for mid 350rwhp easily. 450-500rwhp with a slightly larger turbo and fuel and still pretty decent spool.

I'm running 3 liters with turbo and plan to go bigger, 4.5l also with turbo in the near future. I'm a hair over 2500lbs with a/c, bumpers, ect. Unless one can get the weight under 2k I wouldn't go down on displacement. Torque (off boost) is a good thing on the street. You need cc's/ci's to get that.

This place used to have alot of used slicks. I didn't see any listed though.

You won't break everthing unless you are talking about drag launches. I have more torque and usually hook up fine in 2nd and above and have yet to break something on the street running R compound tires. You can fit a 275 in the rear without flares with the right offset and and 8" coilover, that's what I'm running

I'm with Mortensen. They are a PITA on the street. I did it for awhile. Atleast get the cam lock latch if you get them. To use them properly you need to keep the shoulder straps tight. Like a 240 but it's worse with a harness as you have a strap on both sides, there isn't a quick unbuckle to roll up a passenger side window. I welded a bar between the shock towers to mount mine.

You have both motors just sitting there and you want to know which will be easier. Comparred to what? Are you going to run the auto in the VH45? What Supra motor? Will it be left stock?

Watch your duty cycle.

Camber plates also make quick adjustment for dual purpose cars. I can change mine to autoX in less than 2 minutes.

I don't know if you want suggestions or if this is mostly done. I would run atleast DSM 450's (if you are looking to save money)and a little stiffer on the WG spring. You'll max out a 390 injector pretty easy with that turbo. You can run dsm injectors with a hose, I have. There is a pretty good ridged after you trim the plastic off. I would scrap the safc idea and run stand alone, you'll be happier in the end.

This really should have a sticky. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97320&highlight=engine

I would not be splitting the profit. If you can't finance the restore, you would be better off barrowing (home eq loan) and paying that back after the sale.

Measure the voltage. Narrow bands produce 0-1v, .45v is stoich. The higher the voltage the richer.

Although not the best location for a WG. I had mine mounted like that on the stock manifold for a while before moving the engine back. I didn't have any boost issues.

Even though he posted it I find that extremely hard to believe, especially with a .63 hotside. I've seen other GT series stuff with higher turbine pressure too.

Not on street driven turbo engines.

Through some research I found that the M series was introduced in 1965. They were all inline 6's. Don't think it was really possible to fit an inline 6 in a 60's toyota truck. Stouts (truck) were small and came with the R series that ended in the 90's also.

Really. What M motor came in a truck? I though the 5M was the first and was in a Supra.

Atleast a stage 3 wheel, I would do a stg 5. Try http://www.precisionturbo.net/. I know they cast there own turbine housings so they have the ability to machine them. Compressor wheels are already balanced. They are balanced seperately from the turbine unless the unit came from Tnetics. I've mixed and matched many turbo parts, even some from turbos fromTurbonetics and have yet to have a failure on one I've assembled.

Increasing the air density doesn't increase the engines ability breathe (v/e) regardless if there is more air entering the enigne from the higher manifold pressure.

A 60-1 will have no problem pushing 350 rwhp. You could go with a 62-1 but you'll need to change the compressor housing to match. The larger T series stuff is big shaft. I would recomend changing the turbine wheel to something that flows better first.

Manifold pressure doesn't change VE.