Clifton

Your ring lands will be fine as long as it doesn't knock. You are using 108 so it's all in the timing, don't get greedy. I've run 22 psi, up to 24 psi all day long on the track with stock pistons on an L motor. 30 psi +(gauge only goes to 30) on the 7M with stock cast pistons. I think turbo will be limiting you unless you, especially if it's a standard turbine wheel. Were did the Supra 550's come from? Only MKIV's had them and they are side feed.

Yes it does.... 15 hp variation on a 300 or so HP engine isn't that much when it would just be for veiwing purposes. It would still be nice to see the rwhp dyno even if it wasn't as consistently accurate as an engine dyno.

I too would like to see a dyno section. Not eveyone is into drag racing (I've been 5 times in 20 yrs) and ET's can vary greatly with traction and a good or bad launch. About the only I thing I would care to see is trap speed. I know Mustang dynos read less than Dynojets but if the correction is the same, SAE. The numbers from dyno to dyno wouldn't be too far off if they were all dynojets. Yes, maybe some one can setup a dyno to read higher but why would they? There reputation is at stake. On other car forums chassis dynos are given much more credit than here. Certain turbos can only make so much power and it shows over and over in rwhp. Alot of new cars run 15-20% less on a chassis dyno and it works out based off what the manufacturer claims. Another thing that was brough up is comparing AFR. You can also soo the torque curve and for turbo guys when it comes on. Two of many good layed out pages for examples. http://dyno.to4r.com/graph.php http://moreboost.org/turbo_detail.htm

Wow. Pretty good for 2 liters. How much boost and what happens after 7k?

I just realized you shaved and polished your valve covers. Nice. Anymore progress pics, motor mounts, ect?

Turbo Eclipses use 450cc injectors and have the Bosch style clips. Also early n/a rx7's use 460cc. They are cheap too.

Maybe but your center may not be the same diameter as someone elses center and then they may not want to sell the wheel shells undrilled.

To fit a 9" in the rear with AZC 5 lug (4 to 5 lug rotor hat) brakes you'll need a 43mm offset. You'll also need an 8" sping and CO's. For an 8" in the front with his aluminum hub, without CO's you'll need a 23mm or less offset. I have a 25mm and it barely touched the stock spring seat.

If your wheels are out of production you are stuck. 3 piece wheels are not the same from one brand to another. Getting a different center section that fits perfect and has the same number of bolt holes and spacing would be purely luck. Having a custom made center would probably be more than the wheels are worth.

I don't know how to paste a cpoy of my timing map or I would but I run 38* until 135kpa and it drops to 32*. I can send you my map if you want. LMK.

Yes. A 17x8 with a 12mm offset will work. You can run a little less if you wanted or had to. Say a 5mm offset. This would be with the stock 4 lug hub. A 22mm offset will put it out 2.5mm more than ideal but would work. I would go with more, say 26mm and use a spacer if this is an option. This would be with the stock drum. I don't know about the dish being different between f/r. Maybe if they were custom wheels but mine have the same lip, not really a dish on mine. What wheels are you going with? It is hard to find 4 lug wheel with the right offset and width.

I run a 17x9 with a 35mm offset on the rear. After the spacer it works out to be a 24.5mm offset. with a 0 offset you'll be out another 25mm/ inch past were I'm at and I occasionally rub. I also used eccentric bushings to get the camber out after lowering as you can't push the top out more due to fender clearance. you deffinatly can't go in any more. If you want to run a 275 it is very tight and you can't be off 10mm. I went to Kumho V700's and they were even wider than the Nittos I had. I had to grind a little on the spring collar to get them to clear. I would not run a 225 on a 9 though. I'd run a 245 min. It will be pretty stretched were as the rear will look correct, IMO. Actually my fronts are 25mm. I need to fix that. To run an 8 on stock hubs a 12.5mm offset would give the same suspension clearance I have. A zero would flush it out though. I lengthend my lca's 10mm. I also have 8" springs and sectioned struts.

I have MSII with edis. I know 1fastZ (local) has msns.

PM John Dixon. He is the one making the adapters and is putting a VH in a Z32.

If you build it yourself you should get a megastim to test with. If you buy preassemled/tested. You won't need the extra cost of it. It will still cost more to buy assembled but not much and is easier. In your sig you say 550's. Based on that alone I would go with one of the MS's over the Z31 ecu.

I found an IMB 600 laptop on craigslist.com for $100 + a car adpater for $15. You can find them on ebay too but they seem to go for more there. If you have the 4 bar map I would think you want to run some boost. I would think about going a little larger than stock on the turbo if you still need to get one.

I used VHT engine paint on some calipers. Never had a problem. I'm sure regular can spray paint would be fine too but VHT is a little better resistant to engine degreasers.

The Z negotiator should have kept with the "no bottle" as they were more closely matched and then not asked for lengths. Heads up. They would have been pretty equal then. It's the the fastest car that wins on Pinks, it's the best negotiator.

Running a puck disk with a stock PP will give you a stock pedal but with more torque capacity. I agree with jmortenson on the springs. They do take up some shock on shifts (not noticable to the driver) but I still run unsprung disks.

Ziess150.. What are your high temps there? I have 240 a/c with an aftermarket condensor ( as close the radiator as possible and larger blower motor. High - is swtiched from a relay, L/M/H are all on a relay for +. Everything is sealed good. No air leaks on the evap box either. It is really good to about 100, ok to about 105 and above that it goes down fast. If I park in the sun at 105* for a while and try to cool it down, forget it though.

Those bumpers are not there to save the gas tank or you. The Gov't said it had to be able to take a 5 mph bump. They will protect the body in parking lot crashes though. You can but whatever tube you want behind the bumper. It will still get destroyed in a hard hit and so will the rear of the car. It's false security to think a bumper is there for your safety.

Your pressure will be very high at idle if you are running a 255l pump using the stock return. You could do it using a smaller low volume pump but why? I used the emissions hard line for a return line. It is a little larger that the fuel return line and can handle more volume. My idle pressure is still a few pounds higher than it should be but it works.

It didn't mess it up on mine when I had an afm.