Clifton

I started it in late May and finished it last Sunday, working on it EVERY day. I rebuilt the bottom end and then went to work on the body. I changed every removable part. Doors (71), hood, hatch, headlight buckets, gas door, cowl, ect. I removed the sidemarkers, antenna and welded the fenders to the buckets. I sandblasted the rust in the engine compartment replaced part of the rusty rocker panel. The bumpers are stock steel ones I welded up (including the rear) and had powder coated along with all the trim. Before Camber plate

Harbor Freight sells a variable speed polisher that works great with those 3M foam pads. It comes with the velcro pad too. I think I paid $39 but have seen them on sale for $29.

How much wider are they than stock. A 17x 9.5" will fit stock body. I would think the YZ's are atleast 2.5" wider. Then agian the 15" diameter will need to be moved aout a little more to clear the strut tube, maybe 1/2". Have you looked into tires. wide 15's might be hard to find.

If you can adjust duty cycle there is no need to adjust the fuel pressure. Leave it at 36-40. That's what injectors are designed to run at.

I will never deal with them again.

That's brave. I hope the pistons are whatever they are expected to be. If the pistons are .002" +/- than expected, that would screw everything up. I know my guy won't touch a block without pistons in hand.

Not with a standard T3 wheel. Maybe stg 5. Sean that housing looks pretty big for a T3. You said P trim to, which is a T4 turbine wheel. What's the a/r on the hotside?

The stuff under the boots would still have grease. Z31's are heaver but a VG30 is lighter than an L. The front can't be to much more. I haven't checked locked to lock but the steering is about the same. Sounds like he is just looking for a cheap way to get out of a leaky rack. It needs to be replaced anyway or repaired. Me, I would change the bad seal or put the right rack in it.

It's from an R31. R32+ use the short nose R200. There should be numbers stamped on the bearing somewere. If you can get those, getting bearings shouldn't be a problem.

If you have to replace yours anyway why would you replace it with another rack with PS:confused:? You could just drain the fluidand remove the belt. I have a Z31 and an S30. S30's aren't the easiest to steer when going slow and in parking lots. The Z31 is alot nicer in that respect.

What's the specs? How much boost are you going to run? On a side note. Your ZX in your pics gallery is probably the nicest I've seen.

I would think the compressor wheel would have went through more than one cylinder. I would go with the detonation theory. Especially considering the hammered rod bearing. Is it just the top edge of the piston? Looks like you could clean it up on a lathe.

Mother of all things tiny. That looks like one of the two turbos off a Z32TT. The wastegate port is larger than the turbine wheel. Should atleast spool fast. The glued together turbos are the XYZ, made in Tiawan ones. Not Garrett stuff.

High boost doesn't kill turbos. Running them off the map and spinning them too fast does though. In this case a stockT3 on a Z motor at 18 psi is killing it. It is no different than revving your L28 to 9k. You may get away with it for a little while but do it enough and it may let go.

Turbonetics just uses the BB on the front bearing. The rear bearing is a standard journal bearing. So the seals and rear bearing are standard big shaft stuff you can get anywhere. Did the front have any play? Should be a bit less than the rear as it was BB. Was there in and out play / shot thrust bearing? If you are looking to sell as is, shoot me an email. Every turbo I have bought was someone elses problem that needed a rebuild.

One or two? One wouldn't be enough for an LS1, maybe a lower boost L28. Two would be enough for 900hp though.

Call your local Nissan dealer.

That's alot of air for only wanting 500 HP. 2 of those would easily be enough for 900hp.

Did you bleed the ports on the MC? I did mine 3 days ago and it was still a little soft until I bleed that. Turbine seals are cheap and easy to change. To bad you had to get it running to find out it was bad. .

You also don't want the carbed turbo. I think 87 was the first year of the intercooled model. Scottie?

If you are looking for used turbos I would agree with Scottie. I ran one on a 3.0 Toyota truck motor. Spool was pretty good. 12 psi in the low 3k range. You are almost twice the displacement with alot better motor too. GN turbos are t3/4's. Compressor is a T4 S trim (37 lbs.) Turbine is a little bigger than the standard T3 though, still alot smaller than a T4 though. I wouldn't run anything smaller on a big V8. It would give you enough room to crank it up a little as I'm sure you will be able to running 93. 600hp on pump shouldn't be a problem.

Your pump isn't the problem. Especially if it runs hot above 50 mph. Get the radiator rodded. Crap gets built up in the tubes over time and. Most places here charge $40. It will be like new.

Someone had posted that the late flat tops had a thick top ring land like the P90 turbo pistons. I have never seen them first hand though. The rings a re the same thickness. I know turbo rings usually use a ductile top ring. Maybe the N/A's just use a plain cast ring making the pn's different.

I had an L26 (flat tops) with turbo a long time ago. It was fine up to 10 psi. Detonation ended up killing it when I got greedy with the boost. Knock is the limiting factoy not HP of boost.