Clifton

I ran a 280Z distributor staright into the MSD box. No transistor.

You are going to need a big turbo, 63mm+ and over 25 psi, and not a upgraded T3/4. Roots type superchargers aren't very efficient so I would rule that out for your goals if you want it to be on pump gas. You will also need a large intercooler. You will definately need meth/H20 injection also for pump gas.

You are obviously looking for a little more power than stock. Why not start with an L28 block?

If you are keeping your 3.54 rear I would use an earlier 5spd. The 81+ have a Slightly taller gears to go with the lower 3.90 rear.

What compression are the pistons? If they are flat tops you may want the slight drop in compression going to an EFI head. It wouldn't be much lower. L heads aren't as detonation resistant as 4 valve motors. You'll have to pull ALOT of timing if you are running 9:1 with 16 psi on pump gas. If you are set on the E31 head, make a template of the manifold pattern and transfer it to the head and drill and tap it. You could use a manifold gasket but it might be a little sloppy. Then notch it for the injectors. It wouldn't be too hard.

I don't know if you are talking about the front, rear, or both but I run a 275 on a 9" wheel in the rear. My offset works out to be 25mm if you subtract my .300" spacer and the rear rotor hat that is .100" thicker than the stock drum. If you run an 8" coil and don't mind trimming the fender you shouldn't have a problem fitting a 275's too. I run a 245 in the front on an 8" with out CO's. There is alot more room up front.

It's not dangerous, just annoying. When the pick up becomes exposed it will feel like some one cut the power until the pick up gets fuel again. The harder you are on the throttle the worse it will feel. I used a 240 tank on my first turbo efi 240Z. Even road raced with it. Just keep the tank as close to full as you can until you come up with something.

If you can weld it's not hard to convert your tank to the in-tank pump set up with the proper factory baffles. I have zero fuel issues. I used a Supra donor tank but a Z31 tank would work too. There are pics of mine here. http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/73.html

There really isn't a reason to have a solid mount. You can buy poly bushings already in tube at alot of offroad fab shops. They are a little noisier than rubber but are captured have very little movement. I used these on my truck after tearing the rubber ones apart. http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/bushingassemblies.htm

Nice. Here's the link http://hybridz.org/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=155 .

It's quicker to use a socket and a hammer to get the keepers out. A couple of taps on the retainer and the keepers pop out. I had my 24 valve head apart in about 10 minutes and it's worse than the L head. Still a pain to reassemble as I am using the same compressor you have.

I've already given my opinion once but for a comparison. My race car sits untouched for about 7 months out of the year. It has for the last 7 years. Pulls to 7.5k no problem. Alot of cars sit in storage or motors sit in junkyards and have no spring issues. A spring will fatigue from cycling before it wears from sitting in a head compressed. Call a spring manufacturer( Comp, Schieder, ect.) and ask to speak to a tech.

I have tested springs with a bathroom scale, hydraulic press and a tape measurer. It may not be super accurate but you can get a decent reading.

Your friend is wrong. They are fine.

It's just extra weight. Some cars have them, some don't. I've never used them.

The GT35R will need a restrictor to keep the oil pressure down. I can't remember the max psi but it will use a little less oil than a bushing bearing turbo. Unless you plan on spinning it over 7K for long periods of time I think the factory turbo pump is fine. I haven't had any problems.

You could use the stock O2 sensor bung. I have never used the data logging as I can make adjustments on the fly so I just look and tune. It does come with the software though. You do need to use the computer to play it back. Mine is right on the downpipe, behind the stock one . Some people have had the sensor get to hot, it will show an error code. The sensors temperature has to mantain as certain degreee unlike narrow bands that just need to reach a min temp. You just need to reset the box if you get an error.. I used a small heat sheild to disipate some heat and haven't had any problems and mine about 5" from the turbine outlet.

It's a DIY kit. Kits cost $400. I have a little over $100 in mine with a higher PSI pump. I don't really need a progressive controller. I'm not using it for fuelling. I need it to control knock. With this turbo's trim and a/r full boost will be a little later than it is now. Probably 4K if I'm lucky. I will have enough airflow at the rpms that they will activate so it won't be to much. I have 2 nozzles. I will start with a 5 gpm at 12 psi and a 10 gpm at 18 psi. I have 2 other nozzles, a 3 and 15 gpm if I need to adjust. I have them on solinoids so there won't be a delay either. Having them come on earlier than 15 psi won't help as I can already run 18 on 91 oct.

400 WHP isn't enough I'll have enough when I can spin 275's from a 4th gear roll.

I have used MLS HG's on my L28 and they held fine without lapping. I even reused one. I know the 7M has a design flaw though. I had the head surfaced about 1 year ago when I changed the stem seals. The block has been untouched for 180K miles . I thought about lapping, but lapping a block in the car would be a pain. I'm just putting it in and bolting it on. The compression might be a little low with the 3mm so if it goes in a year I'll try a 2mm. If you are looking for a Cometic gasket for your 7M or anything, http://paradiseracing.com had the best prices.

Time for the T58 to find a new home. I'm going a little lower on the CR with a thicker MLS head gasket. With this and the h20/meth at hopefully 25 psi on pump gas I should be around 500 at the wheels . It's a P trim .70 a/r. Got it cheap, just needed seals. Heres'a comparison of the compressor wheels. 280ZX wheel, CT26, T66.

I've known of 2 people that ran them at 12 psi. The didn't have any problems.

Do you have a multimeter?

The numbers may mean something in someones catalog but if you pull the compressor housing off and measure the inducer and exducer you will know for sure.