Clifton

With all that detonation I hope you didn't break a ring land too. What kind of AFR are you running? if you are on the edge of knock at 12:1 and think running a little richer to avoid knock is safe, it's not. In the summer I can only run 16 psi regardless if it's 11:1 or 12.5:1. Also what did you upgrade to? The stock T3 is already 60 trim, did you go T4.

I run a MKIII intercooler on both cars. I will eventually get an Ebay 12x24x3" one though.

Couln't get the wastegate to hold more than 17 psi after 5K. I guess the 8 psi WG spring is a little too soft.

My 17 X 9's are 18.8 lbs if that helps.

I wasn't trying to offend you. Just trying to help you see the light . 28 lb/min is around 280hp at the crank. That maybe 18 psi on a 60 tirm T3 but 18 psi on a 60-1 or larger would gain you over 100 hp. I didn't think you were trying to make 450 on that turbo. It's just hard not not say something when alot of people want big power but at the same time think they can do it with a stock or small upgrade. 180(ci) X 7000(rpm) X .5 X .85 /1728 = 309 cfm 309 cfm X 2.22 (18 psi) = 685 cfm 685 cfm X .07 = 48 lbs/min.

If you would stop spending money on dyno time trying to blow your stock T3 up, that is running at the end of the map and get a decent turbo you would be close to making the 450 you want at the 20 psi you are already running on pump gas. Look at a map of a T3 60 trim. 34lbs/min

Chryslers do use .48's but they have a different downpipe with the wastegate intergrated. I "think" Volvos and maybe Saabs used a .48 too. A supercharged engine would have very low exhaust back pressure so. On most turbo setups there will be alot more exhaust manifold pressure than intake manifold pressure unless one was to run a very large turbine wheel with a larger a/r. There would be exhaust wanting to flow back into the combustion.

This is his opinion. My stock unkown mileage junkard block made over 400 rwhp at boost and timing that I "could" run with pump gas. I road race it at this level and it sees 3500(min) to 7500 RPMs for 30 minutes straight 3-4 times a day per race. In one day it probably gets beat on harder than most of the street cars on here get in a year. I haven't broke a piston since I've been running the stock P90's. There is no reason the stock P90 motor cannot make over 500 with more boost. A 2JZ will make around 450-480 with a small turbo(T56) at 18-20 psi. Put a T67 on and 28 psi and it's around 600RWHP.

Making over 500 rwhp on a stock motor is not hard. Just a bigger turbo (more lag), more boost and C16 fuel. As long as detonation is avoided it will hold up. Most people struggle to make 300-350rwhp because they are using turbos that are too small and will only flow enough air for 300-350 rwhp.

How fast do you want it to spool? It's not a diesel. If you are using a turbo capable of making good power, say a 60-1. If it was to reach 15-20 psi by say 2000 rpms or around there, it would surge. It's ok to have some lag. Having full boost in an RPM range that is way below you usefull power band doesn't gain anything but extra back pressure at higher RPMs. A stage III or O trim wheel is as small as I would go and no less than a .63 a/r.

I use a line lock for my P brake. It hasn't bled down but the longest I have had it set was for a day.

Making 400 rwhp is probably easier with a 7.4 cr because you can run more boost with less chance of knock. You will need to run around 20 psi to do it though and have a turbo that can flow the air for it. My L28 is a little under 7.4 due to a little unshrouding in the head and makes a little over 400rwhp... My 7M motor is around 7.8. Off boost power and throttle response is fine even at almost 2600lbs. Anything above 4K and 18 psi (max on 91 oct) it will spin the 275's in 2nd from a roll.

It is true atleast for the 5 lug Z31 hubs. 3/4" more. I like the extra offset as you can run a modern wheel offset without a spacer and then run a wider wheel in the rear.

I would back it off a little extra and use the P brake lever to adjust with.

Just cause it's not knocking doesn't mean your pistons aren't going to melt.

Did you use the parking brake to adjust the rears or did you do it manualy? If you used the P brake I would maualy turn a few clicks out and not use th P brake until you figure it out. Atleast you won't miss out on the track time.

The SS was for sure turbo'd.

IMO, Boots don't offer any extra protection. Never had any problems with the shaft seals and dirt. On off road shocks the moisture stays in the boot and rusts the top of the shock. The small vent holes just allow water in but they don't dry out fast enough. Not many people(offroad orreintated) run them except for show. I haven't had any experience with them on road cars though.

Getting power down with a 225 tire for most of the people on this board is about impossible. You are right as far as handling.

I would run atleats a 245mm tire. A 255 would also work. I redrilled my stub axles. You need a hub centric rotor hat. I used the one that came with the kit. Use one wheel stud and knock the rest out. I used a transfer punch to mark the holes. You will also need drill them in a drill press. If you aren't sure if you can do it Ross does them for around $100.

White Z31 turbos have clutch types too. It's the SS ( Shiro special) which is also white and has white wheels that has the viscous.

71' older AzZcar 4 lug kit, 15/16 MC 73' AzZcar current 5 lug kit, 15/16 MC I did run the 79-85 Toyota calipers before this with the stock MC. Pedal pressure was perfect.

I run 15x10 Keizers. Really light, they're aluminum.

I took my signal off the turbo. The higher you set a MBC above the wastegate setting the more spike you'll have. If you are running an internal wastegate you can add a spring that attaches to the flapper that will hold the wastegate shut longer. I used a peice of threaded rod to make it adjustable. It was dead accurate even at 17 psi were the MBC would sometimes spike to 20 psi if I romped on it at higher rpms:( . It was a little better at lower boost though.

I always run race gas at the track even though I could probably get by with a mix of pump and race. I run alot more boost though. If you run 14 psi on pump but 15-16 causes knock I would run a little C16 in there to up the octane. If it knocks while you are in a session you just wasted one session, chances are you won't hear it either unless it's bad though. Don't know what turbo you run but if it has anywere near the lag mine has I would not retard the timing. It will give you a little more torque coming out of a turn especialy if your revs are a little lower than ideal.