Clifton

I have pulled one from this model also..

I'll second the Bullet being loud. I run one next to my D shaft but also run a Hooker maxflo, straight through muffler at the back. The Dynomax Ultraflo race mufflers are also loud. I have a 6" round on my L28 Z. The internal diameter is larger than the inlet. They are good for racecars though.

The turbo needed to make 600 let alone 800 hp will have lag on a 3.0 motor regardless of if it's a 2JZ or VG30. If it didn't it would have to run a small hot side killing it's top end, and then the fast spool with hte big turbo would have serious surge issues. Here's a big HP VG30D.

Although I'm not running an Arizona Z Car flywheel I have seen them and it looks about the same thickness as my HKS one.

Thev'e been around for years. There's another place that even makes them left hand drive. Saw one at SEMA. The R32 and R33's are really nice but a little on the heavy side compared to a 240.

The Holley pump is made by Walbro. As are alot of other pumps. You could run their 155 or what ever the smaller one is. If you are going to need the extra fuel of the 255l/hr one there is really no way around it. The Big Walbro does move alot of fuel and the pressure is a little high on mine at idle too but I need the volume.

Dose yours initially spike and then drop down to the setting?

The spring applies more pressure to hold the wastegte shut until the desired opening pressure. If you add another 10 lb of tension to a 7 lb wastegate you have a 17 lb wastegate. With the spring you don't need to use the more expensive, less reliable MBC. If it was still mine I would send it to you to try. I got my new stiffer WG spring in yesterday Now I can hold 20 psi to redline It was supposed to be a 15 psi spring but is around 18.

Ok I went to my friends and go a pic of it. I sold him my extra 7M setup for his Z. I ran this at 17 PSI' date=' wastegate diaphram is 7 psi like the Nissan one. On Nissan turbos there is enough room to hook the spring around the wastegate bracket. This is a Toyota turbo though and there isn't the room so I welded on a nut on the rod. It held all the way to redline never falling off or spiking. Cost about $5 and is adjustable from stock boost to whatever it takes to put a hole in a piston [img']http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/wastegate.jpg[/img]

A turbo manifold from a 280ZX turbo. If you run richer than you need to you will loose power. Yes you can run 10:1 in order to run a few psi more but you will make more power running it leaner with less boost. To say they don't provide fuel evenly is arguable without hard data to back it up.

The first turbo car I had a ride in was a 240Z in 90' with a blow through 4 barrel. It was fast enough to make me forget about the tripple carbs/cam/pistons I was saving for. I was turbo'd a few months later. He used a Holley blue pump and regulator running boost to the vent port on it. Run a Holley not a Carter, the accel pump is not covered by the plenum/bonet and will spray a little gas under boost . You could still run the stock turbo exhaust manifold and turbo but would have to get a real 4 barrel intake manifold, not one of the bolt on to the SU adapter ones, they won't clear the turbo.

I sold the last turbo I had with it on. I will find something and kinda hold it up to a turbo and get a pic to show.

You are contemplating an SR20 swap and the muffler sound is what may be the determining factor on if this will happen or not ? Are you pulling our leg?

Are you bleeding off a little pressure between the MBC and wastegate? I used an adjustable bleeder to let a little out. As far as lag, either way should be the same as the wastegate is held shut on it's own till atleast 7psi. On mine I came off the turbo as it's closer. Pressure is pressure. On integral wastegates you'll have more a more accurate setting by running an extra spring to hold the wastegate shut. I have never had any boost creep or bleed down using that method but now that I have the external with an 8 psi spring and the MBC it's become an issue for me too at higher boost as the RPMs rise. As the RPMs go up there is more back pressure working against the spring. I'm still waiting for the 15 psi spring to come in

With coil-overs easily.

No throttle body, must be a diesel. Alot of pics. Almost like I took a trip there, pretty cool.

Injector size doesn't matter, it's the fuel pump volume. I use a stock 280 ZXT with a Walbro 255l/h and I use it with a Paxton kamikazie pump too.

You can fit both with out the flares, unless you just want flares. You can swap to 5 lug for under $500.

Or the GT30R, GT30, or GT35R http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/jsp/downloads.jsp They list them by displacement too.

I wouldn't even consider the RB20. The SR20 is so much lighter and an extra psi will make the same HP. My choices from 1st to last. 1 VQ35 with turbo 2 2JZ, was that a choice 3 RB26 VQ35's are really light too. 2 people can easily pick up a complete long block.

I second that. It seems like alot of people on this board seem to be happy running a turbo that is too small to get the job done. Don't know what they are afraid of.

The specs on the turbo I ran on the 2.4l were T3 60 trim compressor(stock 280ZX). and had a chrysler .48 turbine housing. It spooled more than fast enough. Knowing the a smaller a/r chokes and hinders top end I swapped the .63 housing on. It slowed it a little but not much. This guy may know his stuff with trims and maps but I would question his matching on this application. If you are looking 20-22 psi you are looking to make a bit of power, easily 350-400 depending on turbo. With something small you may struggle to reach 300 whp and probably not on pump gas. I don't know what you mean by 60 a/r T4 exhaust house. Are you refering to the compressor housing? Do you know what wheel he was going to use on the compressro? I am biased to larger, a little laggier turbos for max power. Zcarsmakesmyheadhurt on this board does alot of turbos. He has a shop. He might have some first hand experience with different set ups and could give a little more help.

.48 OMG Is it a L28D? Why do you want so much spool at revs that the car will rarely be in? Have you driven the car with the .63? Porsche may have went down on there a/r's, I don't know, but there is no way they were even as low as a .63 to begin with. I did run a .48 on a 2.4l 4x4 Nissan hardbody and ended up swapping to a .63. You will have alot more back pressure at cruise and under boost, lowering your overall power.