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Clifton

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Everything posted by Clifton

  1. They are for sure 6" wide. It will fit on the rim but it will buldge. No way would I go that wide on that wheel. I would run a drag radial first.
  2. 24 or 25mm for the rear if you want to get a 275 in there with no spacer. 16mm would rub without triming the fender ALOT. I guess it depends on the tire width as a narrower tire would give you a little more clearance in either direction.
  3. Only the later, I belive 81+ have the 3.9. There is a trans ratio change along with the diff ratio change. I run a 3.9 and a 3.7. I will soon change the 3.7 to a 3.9 too. If you are concerned with your highway rpm's get the later 5spd along with the 3.9. 5th is .75 compared to the earlier .86.
  4. That's what I ran with a 38mm offset and 1.75" thick front and 1.5" thick rear spacers.
  5. It depends on what your plans are for boost and HP. For me a T4E 50trim is way too small. $940 is a little high IMO. http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gartur.html I have had bad experiences with Top End. So I will have to say I will never deal with them again.
  6. Clifton

    Going turbo.

    Turbo motors have dished pistons, not flat tops.. Also the 83's have the hydraulic heads. I have never seen one so maybe someone else could post something. For the $800 you could buy a rough 280ZXT and have the whole car for wiring/parts.
  7. I would loose the Flow disaster and run a straight through muffler on the rear. If you have a timing light with the adjustment knob on it it's easy to check your total timing with the revs up. I would do as jmoertensen suggests and run it in the mid to upper 30's.
  8. It's an good OE replacement clutch but it won't hold 350hp. Weight is weight. I personaly like light flywheels. I wouldn't bother with a ball bearing turbo. Just adds an unecessary expense. If you feel like you must have BB I would spend the extra money and just get a GT35R. That would be a much better turbo than a T3/4E.
  9. Because of this the car will run leaner unless you can adjust your fuel. Luckily most of us on here can:-D. I don't think these fuels are new. On the SDS site they were is an old writeup of their 240sx using M85, but they are Canadian.
  10. On a stock cam the overlap isn't an issue. It's the aftermarket N/A cams that have the close lobe centerline.
  11. Wasn't there a guy who just sold his T66 carbed Z that made somewere around 530 to the wheels?
  12. I know you are always lookng to gain a few HP. I don't know if you know but the ZXT cams have a little less lift on the intake. The earlier cams, it's either stamped "A" or "C" can't remember(double check with some calipers) but it's just the earlier 280z cam, will give you a little more power. The IN and EX lift is the same on them. It sould extend your powerband. I know I have a little more RPM in mine.
  13. It was... akeizm and pjo, I will send you a couple of pics I still had on my camera. If one of you have web space to host that would be great, I'm about at my limit.
  14. The pinion flange on the Z31 R200's is larger. You will need to change that with the 280zx one or change the rear flange on you D-shaft. Other than that you will just need a mustache bar and the non CV r200 input flanges. BTW I have a few extra mustache bars if you need one.
  15. If you don't get an answer here, try http://z31.com/
  16. Dam, you like it lean! What happens after 5200? You should be peaking around 5500-5600 and still have enought rpm till 6500 even on a T3/4.
  17. I used DSM O-ring inectors with a hose. I just cut back some of the plastic and slid the hose over it.
  18. You would need to vent the air from the top heat exchanger out through the hood. Wouldn't be hard but I don't think you would benifit from it if your radiator is capable of keeping the car cool.
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