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Everything posted by zcarnut

  1. zcarnut


    We’ve got an A-12 here in Huntsville parked in front of the Space and Rocket Center which is easily visible from the interstate highway. More reading on SR-71’s and A-12’s: http://www.johnweeks.com/sr71/index.html
  2. Was this for an early Z car? The site you listed does not show any metric compression fittings (only metric O-ring fittings). I would think the female O-ring fittings would leak if you attempted to mate them with male compression fittings.
  3. Give Roger a call at the Z Barn which is located just south of Knoxville. http://www.zbarn.com/ He has a near complete 1977 (or maybe it's a '78) 200SX he's parting out.
  4. Yes. Use the late 280ZX stuff (1982-83) with the bracket.
  5. I’ll second what bluezx said. The steering columns of the ZX’s are all the same. The transition point is at the rubber steering coupler.
  6. Not my diagram, but it should get you started.
  7. I've used the Lokar one (with mods) on a 240Z: http://lokar.com/product-descriptions/univ-ebrake-cables.htm But's it is expensive.
  8. Jon; The Earl’s PN 640603 metric fitting I used on my SS flex lines does indeed fit into the stock location with the OEM clip.
  9. Jay; It's looks like you have made some spare bushings. Any thought about selling a couple? I've got two 200SX calipers I'd like to save from my "scap metal box".
  10. Sounds familiar. The automotive machine shop I have used for several L6 rebuilds cannot rotate (spin) the L series harmonic damper or flywheel by themselves (because they’re not small-block Chevy parts). They need something to bolt them to that they can rotate, hence the crankshaft is needed as well. The flywheel (or harmonic damper) balancing procedure is to first balance the crankshaft with clay or bob weights, then mount the flywheel and check for imbalance. If necessary the flywheel is balanced. Then the pressure plate is then added and balanced as needed. If the machinist is good then he will also insist on checking the damper as well for imbalance.
  11. I made my own with Earl’s Performance fittings. Cost per side came to $22.36.
  12. It was not my car. I was installing bigger front brakes on a friend’s 260Z when we encountered the interference issue. Personally, I think these Ansen wheels look great on the S30’s. Very retro.
  13. The amount of material to be removed is not much, but I like to do things “correctlyâ€, so if I was going to enlarge the opening I would have a machine shop do it. This would reduce any possible wheel imbalance a hand operation might cause. But if you insist on doing it yourself, then use an air driven die-grinder loaded with a 1/4†end mill bit.
  14. No “valving†benefit, just a firmer brake pedal, especially with disc brakes. Only the 1979-81 ZX master will fit your booster and your reservoirs will likewise only fit on the 1979-81 ZX master. However, it is not recommended that you use the smaller size reservoir designed for the drum brakes when you change over to disc brakes due to the larger fluid requirement of the calipers compared to the drum cylinders.
  15. John is correct…. The S30 Z car brake systems do not use a residual check valve to maintain a minimum pressure in the rear brake drum circuit. Rather, the rear drum brake wheel cylinder lip seals are spring loaded against the cylinder walls to prevent leaks. Yes, there are check valves in the Z car master cylinder, but these are very low pressure (1 to 2psi) valves that just prevent the brake fluid from being siphoned out the master cylinder reservoirs in the event that the master cylinder is at, or below, the height of the calipers (which could occur when you are parked on an incline). These anti-siphoning valves are used in both the front and the rear brake fluid circuits.
  16. That is the 1984-87 5-lug rotor in the photo. So, you're halfway there.
  17. No. The 1988 and '89 turbo hubs (and rotors) are different. That's what you got.
  18. For either the Turbo (5-lug) or the non-turbo (4-lug), on the 1984 Z31 the rotor diameters are the same (front or rear).
  19. bj, read what I wrote….I said 260Z not 240Z….I don’t know how the 1973 240Z electric fuel pump retrofit circuit functioned but I am aware of how the 1974 260Z electric fuel pump circuit functions. If you don’t believe what I said then maybe you might believe what Nissan wrote. Here’s what the 1974 260Z service manual, section EF Fuel System, page EF-7 says: Electric Pump Operation This system controls the operation of the electric fuel pump according to the engine speed. It receives the engine speed information from a voltage generated by the voltage regulator. When the engine is running below 400 rpm, the electric fuel pump cut relay #1 remains OFF and the pump will not be operated. While cranking the engine, the electric fuel pump relay #2 remains OFF and the pump will not be operated. Under normal engine running conditions, both the electric pump and the mechanical pump are operated. As an owner of a 260Z I can verify that the electric fuel pump is on while the engine is running. Its “humming†sound is very evident.
  20. Well on the 260Z both the mechanical fuel pump and the electric fuel pump work while the engine is running. During start-up (engine cranking) the electric pump is disabled, although I am puzzled by why the factory did this.
  21. Some threads from the Classic Z Car Forums: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35475 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35009 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13557
  22. I don't disagree with your thinking, Jon. Grease will expand with heat and if there's too much then it will leak past the seals. However, the factory service manual does tell you to "fill the center (strut) portion with grease" during assembly".
  23. I saw two rear struts from a 240Z ITS race car that were drilled for a grease fitting. Of course (in your situation) the drilling operation may introduce metal shavings into the grease cavity.
  24. I also had an unpleasant eBay transaction with this clown. I won two auctions from him, an underhood label and a set of spark plug wire looms. He sent me two PayPal bills for the transactions and the shipping charge for the label was $10 and the shipping for the looms was a surprising $20. I asked him to combine the shipments into one box and re-quote and so he sent me a bill that had a $30 shipping charge (!). WTF. We eventually agreed at a $10 shipping charge and he sent both my items in a regular sized envelope and the actual postage was like 95¢. That’s sounds like the console he bought from me. I originally bought an early 240Z reproduction console from Motorsport Auto several years ago for $150. I stored it (unopened) in its shipping box for about two years (until I needed it) and when I finally opened the box to install it I discovered that it was a rather poor reproduction. Disgusted, I put it on eBay with full disclosure of it’s condition and as a result it sold for the opening bid of only $45. Reddat was the only bidder. A few weeks later I noticed he was selling a “new†early 240Z console for almost $300. The listing implied that it was a NOS part and none of the problems with the console were mentioned. Maybe it was a coincidence? But I don’t think so….
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