WizardBlack

It would probably work better with an actual air/water intercooler instead of an air/air intercooler.

Yes. The short answer is there is no way. You have to be 'edumucated' about the specific turbo to know for sure. If you are looking at a very specific turbo, you can try comparing to lots of stock photos from vendors. That's about the best I can tell ya. You will know if you can get your hands on it to compare.

I'm confused by this. Are you saying you are unaware of the differences between the two blocks and the fact that the F54 has fewer holes down the length on the passenger side? Ie., more coolant flow is directed to the rear of the head when it leaves the block.

I think I have the g-box insert. Shoot me a pm.

By the way, what kind of tools do you use to hold such patch panels in place when you start to weld them? I'm assuming these are butt welded and not lap welded.

Ah, thank you!

OK, I have a detailed fab question for installing the rears. I understand the concept of the inner and outer quarter panels, the necessity of welding them back together, etc. My only question is, assuming you cut the rears up high enough to make the inside flat (horizontally) as beta mentioned, how do you get the fender well sealed up again? I know you'd have to cut the inner longer to leave material to reach the outer. You'd also have to cut slits in the inner to remove the downward arc and make it stretch out horizontally to the outer sheet metal. However, you'll end up with vee shaped holes from the slits, would you not? Do you cut strips to weld in on this? Does it end up being narrow enough of slits that you can bridge it with the welder?

I would like to add a few things since I have installed lots of body panels of all types on various customer's cars and installed some here and there on my own vehicles. 1. Carbon fiber drills just fine. You just have to be careful drilling through the skin so it doesn't crack. Use tape (as a previous poster mentioned) since carbon is slick and your bit will shift easily. Start with a pilot. 2. Carbon is brittle compared to urethane. A good hit and it's gone. You can repair it like you can fiberglass, but you won't have a pretty, shiny surface. Some ppl use carbon for the lightness and you can repair and repaint it just fine. You have to watch this when selecting parts for a 'dorifto' car or anything that sits very low. S30's have a substantial overhang, but most guys haven't sectioned struts and whatnot to get it extremely low. 3. Urethane can sag if it's cheap or if it's an overly complicated part. The typical front bumpers for an S30 are not going to sag with a single from brace. This brace will help with airflow anyways, so it's somewhat of a given. I can stand on the front of my Xenon late style urethane bumper with it's brace. (I don't recommend you try it, though) 4. Beware cheap parts; you get what you pay for and you pay more to make it fit. This is particularly true with rigid parts like glass/carbon.

You clearly have some bits that can flow better up top and some bits that are out of breath by the time the turbo spools. It seems like a lot of stock head/manifold turbo cars I've seen; just a bit bigger turbo costing you some spool, perhaps. One observation; your timing looks too high at idle. Just as timing typically picks up a few degrees after peak torque, so too, does timing drop low as you get below 2krpm or so. The engine is moving so slowly; you don't need that much timing. Look at the point 2750rpm/105kpa. Note how it tapers more retarded as you go down on the map (higher boost); mirror that to it's left as well.

Depends on how it sounds, but my turbo sounds like a jet engine when it's spooling. Some make funky whistles and some just the whooshing/sucking sounds.

BTW, take a peek at Subaru cars. They have a separate header tank that sits on top of the engines that might be useful for rerouting some stuff and keeping the air pockets removed. It has a standard horizontal tab to mount it to anything with two 8mm bolts, features a (second) radiator cap and all hosebarb inlets and outlets.

LOL, I just installed that very housing and a water pump on my Dad-in-law's 3 series. That is not what you think it is. It's an inlet and an outlet from the block. The in and out ports are pointed downward in the picture; the t-stat pokes into the block (and it molded into the plastic housing). The two water hose fittings (pointed to the right and to the left-rear in the pic) are for the bottom and top of the radiator. It's basically like our water pump inlet and thermostat housings joined at the hip (with no intermix, etc.). There's also a sensor in it, obviously. That part is about $90 IIRC. It's actually, IMHO & AFAIK, an aspect of BMW's that people gripe about. It's made of plastic and incorporates several items in it that will fail (sensor and t-stat). So, the short answer is, no. It is separated.

Yup, as in, "It's rusted and you can have it for free!". That's the kinda rust free cars the rust belt has.

Won't the 'ole Chiltons book show the access points for interior trim and whatnot?

Definitely not 3/8".

I've not heard of many L blocks splitting from high torque/power/rpm levels. I know SBF's are kinda that way and ppl look for high nickel content blocks, but not in an L-series.

Ray, to each his own, but most of the forum members on here are tweaking and adjusting (at the risk of ruining things). I never said there was no risk. I posted the link to provide specific details. Most on here don't appreciate things being dumbed down for them; but rather want the whole story. And as an aside, I have run across cars that had the specific issues he posted and it turned out to be the AFM.

Use a checkvalve???

I am taking the vinyl off of my door panels, grinding the rivets to remove the cardboard lower section from the upper metal section and cutting new aluminum panels for the same profile as the cardboard. Afterwards, the entire thing will be covered in alcantara. I will use a bit of silicone caulk to fill the bit of gap/transition from the aluminum to steel so you don't see it when it's covered. The only downside is that the door handle is recessed and will need to be relocated or remounted. I ordered a Lokar door cable kit for this. I have decided on what to do for the actual handle inside, yet. My car is partially stripped, caged, etc., so I want something small and light.

Yeah, I meant search the stickies.

I'm sorry, but that's total nonsense. It isn't magic; it just a rheostat and a few other minor things. They won't implode if you take the plastic cover off. It is specifically made to access and adjust. I'd recommend anyone using it to do pulls and adjust as necessary. Read the link. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html Take the cover off, start the car and blip the throttle. It will tell you if it's moving through a range smoothly.

Meh, that just adds more plenum volume which can delay the signal to whatever is tapped into it. A typical sized hose line is more than enough; just don't combine them as we discussed to avoid certain failure modes. Now if you are referring simply to the port on the intake manifold; yes just use a bushing to drop it down to the appropriate diameter and rock on.

Very interesting. Be sure to start a Member's Projects thread and keep us updated.

There are much more fuel efficient engines than the KA24DE. There are much more aerodynamic (and light) chassis than the S30. But, hey, to each his own. LUK. I personally thought of using a KA24DE for turbo since the heads flow very nicely. The KA24DE is the new SR20DET IMHO.

Which wheels, anyways?