jt1

While it's still assembled, it's pretty easy to check the stroke on # 6, it should be the same as the others. If the crank is twisted, the piston would still likely come to TDC, just not at the same time as #1. If the stroke is correct, then check wrist pin height and rod length when you take it apart. jt

Safety stuff: Brakes, roll bar or 6 point cage, good helmet, fuel cell, fire system. Lighten the car up all you can. Track time. There is no substitute for time behind the wheel. If you think the car is two seconds quicker than you are, you've got a ways to go. As you get faster, the improvements get smaller and smaller, but that's what separates the good from the average. Quality instruction, from somebody who can help, goes a long way. A datalogger helps a lot also. Once you get to 80 -90%, most of the speed increases come from mental improvements, not mechanical ones. John

If the bores and pistons look good, I think I would try and source some o rings of the correct size from Wilwood, Brembo, or AP, and put them in the SX calipers. They are likely of better quality than the rebuilder grade stuff. Then get some higher temp pads and give it a try. The pads will help with the fade, and the higher temp pads transfer less heat into the pistons, caliper, and fluid. Of course, this forces the heat into the rotor, so you may have to improve cooling. I've seen tire worms caught in the caliper and rotor catch fire after a hard session. Jon is right, you put a lot of heat into the brakes on a high HP/sticky tired/aggressively driven car. jt

My install:

I've been using the same PC680 in a track car for about five years now. Works great, 13 pounds. jt

Good solution, that looks nice. jt

Either you haven't got the master bled completely, the reaction disc has moved, or you need to adjust the pushrod on the rebuilt master. Process of elimination. John

It's sort of hard to tell from the vid, but it doesn't sound metallic enough to be a rod. I would check all the spark plugs to be sure they're tight, check the exhaust manifold to be sure it's tight with no blown gaskets, then check the rockers. Something up in the timing chain area might also be a possibility. You could also cut open the oil filter to see if you have any metallic debris. If you can borrow a stethoscope , slow the motor down, and listen you might narrow down where it's coming from. jt

I would tear down the calipers and examine them carefully. See if the seals look melted, and if the bore and piston look OK. Look for any signs of scuffing, or a rough piston or bore. Do the pads show any taper? Sometimes if they are wearing tapered, the piston can cock and cause a leak. Excessive caliper flex can also do this, and if could be a combination of both. The mount could also be flexing. jt

If you're getting brake fade, either you got the pads hotter than their operating temp, you boiled the fluid, or you've got some moisture in the system and boiled the water. Usually if you overheat the pads, the brakes come back after they cool down. If the pedal was still soft after cooling, it's fluid related. Either way, it sounds like you got the calipers hot enough to cook the seals. A caliper rebuild is in order, then some fresh fluid, something like Valvoline Syntec or ATE super blue. I use both with good results. If you still get brake fade with good fresh fluid, it's time to upgrade the pads, and maybe work on some cooling ducts. Can you tell if it's the front or rear fading? John

For comparison, here's a pic of Scott Murphy's ex-trans am vette, refitted to GT-1 specs, at a CMP track day. You can see the nice cowl induction airbox. Under the airbox is an ex nascar SB2.2 making a little over 900hp. Wow. The Hemipanter gives me a woody. That guy finances these projects building guitars?

Maybe so, just not shown in the pics. Conventional thinking among the circle track guys is the air cleaner up in the windstream plays havoc with the pressure differentials in the carb. I'd like to see a pic of the footbox. With those ducts, it looks like the pedals would have a lot of offset, unless the driver is a midget. Those spindles are impressive, along with the rest of the fab work. jt

Wow. Now that's getting air out of the engine compartment. Wonder what all the baffles around the carb are for? jt

Welcome to HybridZ, Vladimir. Sometimes my english isn't very good either. jt

Happy Birthday Old Man!!!!!!!! John

I used to have a completely stock 76, and I remember the AC in it working very well. Never had any problems with it, and it kept the car quite comfortable. It's probably not as hot in NC as Bakersfield, but we have the humidity. I did have the rear glass tinted. John

Check the rocker carefully, it's hard to imagine the pushrod being that bad and not hurting the cup on the rocker. The lash could have got loose and it just beat itself to death, it may not have been oiling, or you could have lost that lobe on the cam. Just have to check and see. 492's were the primo head of the day, but there are better offerings now. It depends on what kind of shape they're in, your goals, and your budget. John

Looking good!!! What kind of flares are you using? jt

Those last 20 laps were some of the best road course racing I've seen. jt

I fully agree. One time a rear main seal turned into almost a completely new motor for me. As it should have. jt

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That looks nice. If the spot where the clay squeezed up bugs you, you can fix it, just go thru the whole process again, working on that one spot. It probably won't hurt a thing like it is. Let us know how it shoots. Did you do anything to the tip of the forearm? John

I got one today. No way am I clicking on that link. jt