rayaapp2

E85 is corrosive to aluminum. Aluminum in contact with E85 has to be coated in some way or replaced with another material. Fuel lines, rails, injectors, pumps, tanks, and anything else that touches the fuel. Failure can result in leaks, plugged fuel systems, etc... Its not as corrosive as the methanol stuff on the strip but it will get the job done over time. I believe its a long term issue with E85. Check into Flex Fuel vehicle fuel system designs for answers here. I did some poking around in the subject myself for my Roadster... Decided it was to much to undertake for MPG/price.

Some number crunching may result in a change of thinking... prepare to change your mind about how you think all about forced induction dynamics... Ive been content with 13psi on the stock turbo this far. Ive squeezed 300 hp and torque to the wheels with the stock turbo and minimal tuning(there is room for improvement). On stock boost with EVERYTHING as it came out of the R33 GTS-T I put down 265RWhp and 233RWtorques which is over crankshaft rated power specs for my RB25det. As you figure out flow you will also be better equipped to design the intercooler and piping systems as well. BTW you will never hear my car coming. We've tested this. All the noise is directed out the back. I dont know what I did right. We made several passes on the freeway and you literally hear nothing until the back of my Z passes you and then it sounds just like some of those RB drag videos you can find on youtube. Inline six/hoover on crack. Very Satisfying.

At the risk of coming off as rude; If you cant master dialing in a carb or do not have a clue how they work, how are you going to setup EFI? You gonna just throw it in there and mis-match parts that werent designed to support each other without the knowledge base to re-engineer the fuel delivery and ignition system and hope its a bolt in? Start with your carbs. Familiarize yourself with them and HOW they function. Tonys reply is a really good summary of SU functionality. If you dont know what he is talking about try the SU FAQ as he suggested and even a simple google or hybridz search will yield the basic info you need to diagnose your carbs. If you were closer to Salinas Id have been glad to meet you and help you out in person. I live right off of 101. SU carbs despite their abnormal style are really easy to work on once you grasp their functions. search for "setting up SU's" or "rebuilding SU's" and you should find a ton of info. I seem to remember Ztherapy's website having some basic rebuild and tuneup tips that would help you out. Ray

Keep in mind PSI and Flow are not the same. Your coolant system holds a certain PSI, but it has nothing to do with coolant flow through the system. Its the same principles with slightly different dynamics. Max and Min boost pressure is dictated by flow as there is a max and min flow for the turbo before it cavitates or stalls(I believe those are the correct terms). Flow has a range that is specific to each motor. So when determining turbo sizes and waste gates you can calculate what works with about 5 mins of work and a calculator. The turbo you are looking at is new right? The manufacture should have design specs to help determine what size waste gate to run. If in doubt try out their tech assistance line. You should also be able to get a flow map graph for the setup you want while your at it. Then you can crunch some numbers for your RB and determine how well that turbo will be supported and what flow rate ranges you fall into by plotting your specs at RPM on the compressor flow map and determine what boost pressures are optimal. Takes most of the guess work out. As an added bonus you can dial a turbo size to your motor at a given PSI and keep the flow in the sweet spot... This requires you know what boost pressure you want to run before hand. A tech assistance line should be able to do all this with you on the line if you have your engine specs. You may need to determine your engines "volumetric efficiency" aka "VE". Google that one and see what you can find. I didnt memorize how to figure all this out so some of this info may be a little flawed. I use to have a hot rodding book with a complete break down on the subject. If I ever find it I need to scan it and post it up here for you guys. Its one of the best tools Ive come across for help with turbo decisions. Im sure there are basic programs out there that will help figure this out if you google it... but you need the flow map still so you can plot it.

Ive seen that with ring gap issues. Im sure there are lots of other things that can cause it though. Ive also seen it with forms of pre-ignition where the flame fronts collide and amplify and causes damages like that when parts of the pistons melts to the cylinder wall and takes out the sides of the piston. But usually related cylinders(ones that share carbs) will follow suite. Ive always had a hard time diagnosing engine tare downs with that sort of damage. On the bright side I think you only have order a single piston and rings through Ross once youve determined the shape of the block cylinder wall. The last one I had required a ridge reamer to remove bits of aluminum from the top where it had piled up, and then I was able to hone it out and stay within the wear limit to use a std piston. EDIT: There appears to be a pattern there where one side was worn at a specific spot in its rotation(top picture) and the other side appears to be worn all the way down the skirt which could mean rings dont have much to do with it..

I thought I would add some of my personal opinion to this thread. Im not impressed by any of the KA or SR engines. The SR has 2 major flaws. Valve train harmonic issues (that requires valve spring replacement) and Rod bearing issues from which I have yet to discover the culprit(but believe it to be inherent to the engine design and fuel map). The KA has an array of issues. There are 2 main variants of the KA, the single cam and the dual cam. Both of these engines share the L series heritage, but do not share the L series durability. Chances are also good that you find yourself a KA that has been ape raped by some wannabe drifto. If you get lucky and find a virgin KA to work with the first downfall is the cylinder wall material. Im not a metalurgist, but leave an L out in the rain for a few days and leave a KA out in the rain at the same time. One will hone back and be pretty much in spec, the other will have heavy pitting an require a bore! The KA cylinder wall material is easily damaged and not strong like the "L gata". The next thing to concern yourself with is timing chain. The single cam is very much like the L, but has a light duty chain. The dual cam was an afterthought or something and has left the engine with extra cam chain slack and more tensioners. Not to mention the chain slap issues! This equals less accurate cam timing and more fictional rotating losses. Lets go a little further down the rabbit hole for the last point of interest. The KA has a big stroke and big bore. This motor was setup for torque. Why Nissan ever chose to put either of these engines into a car is beyond me. This particular 4 cylinder is more conducive to small mini/light truck like the infamous D21. Not to say they cant but they seemed to have better selections at the time to use for their cars(like the SR). In the past my personal favorite of these is the KA24e single cam. Its has the least issues and is the cheapest to come across if you dont mind having to do a complete rebuild. But then do you really want to be able to tell whether or not you have a passenger in the car? To tie this together with the title for the money I believe personally when it comes to S30 Z cars Id stick to a 6 or 8 cylinder for your money and many other reasons. Swapping engines like a KA or SR can be just as expensive as just shelling out the cash to build the L. SR swaps look cool, but the guys doing them right are forking out much more than a junkyard L turbo swap. Last Turbo L swap I did was under $1000 and produced a low 12 second 1/4 260z. The car weighed 2704lbs with me in it. I never dyno'd it but Im sure for that weight and time I was over 300hp and torques. Dont know where the slip is or Id give more specifics(made my runs back in late '04). Again this is my opinion and my observations that I have based it upon. Nathan you just missed the $500 zxt up near you on CL. There was a registered runner down here in Monterey a few months back for the same price. They can still be had if you have a good eye.

Ive got the best of both IMO 74 260Z with an RB25DET 71 240Z with an L24 I love both of them. Im pretty close to done playing around with my RB project. I plan on changing the valve stem seals and going with a Cometic head gasket and thats about it for the near future. The L24 is a build in the works. It currently runs as stock. I expect to spend about the same on building the L24 as I did on swapping the whole RB in. I would expect the cars to be head to head on the track when I am finished. Of course with little more effort I can get much more power out of the RB which is pretty close to stock now. I am continuing with the L24 because I already have the engine(vs buying a L28 or what have you), The block and head came with the car from the factory(never plan to sell it but its cool in my book despite not being original), for the same cost as the RB swap itself I am modify the L to keep up with my mostly stock RB 260z(only need to get within 50-60hp of the RB260z with a 240Z to stay in the same lap time according to my math), and going 2 years without an L series Z has left me missing the feel and sound of the classic L. The RB has a distinct sound that can easily be distinguished from the L. Even with SU carbs the L makes cool intake sounds as you whined it out. Triple carbs enhance the sound even more. Combine that with a crisp classic L exhaust on a naturally aspirated engine and it gets your adrenaline going every time. The only other engines that come close IMO are the BMW inlines and they still have their own notes.

I pm'd in an attempt to keep the thread clean... oh well. "Really? I was under the impression that cats drastically reduced HC, NOx, and CO1 emissions--at all times, but most efficiently at stoich levels. So what your saying is, if I tune my Z to stoich, it's nearly as clean as running it at stoich with a cat. The cat only starts working to compensate for Accel enrich., etc.? " Your kinda right, but not quite grasping the whole thing. BTW this is not something totally easy to grasp either. Most people I have seen try and learn this can take several weeks of study to come to a good understanding of how these systems all work together. Cats DO catalyze well "NEAR" stioch. If you were able to get a stioch mixture or even stay close to stioch all the time the cat would not be able to catalyze. If you look at the graph I posted you will see that there are only 2 emissions we are concerned with at stioch. NOx and CO2. There isnt any O2 or CO2 to do anything with in the catalytic process. In a TWC you would not even be able to break down the NOx completely at stioch as it still requires extra O2 to end up with N2 and O2(This is a chemistry aspect where you get the same amount out as you put in). At stioch you are getting as close to a full efficient burn as possible leaving you with no 02, CO2, or HCs for the cat to work with. Applying this to your Z and yes you can run it as clean without a cat as with for the older standards. I have my original 71 up to BAR 84 catalyzed standards with no cat and a damaged AB valve. Im sure thats what Tony was saying about his 73 as well when he mentioned that his car met 83 catalyzed standards. This does not mean you will get it as clean as a newer car. But yes you can tune the L series as to get to a point where you will not have enough CO, O2, or HC to support a catalytic process. You would actually have to dirty up the mixture(slightly richen) to have the cat function... and as I stated earlier in that thread you will risk burning the cat up by either going to rich (CO) or to lean (HC). A side note here HC = incomplete burn as in what happens with a lean miss-fire or any other event where you do not reach a total burn of the A/F mixture. And YES Tony you can hit that mark and still have drivability though I think mine is at the mark not below on some of the gases(HC's in particular). So why use a cat? On older cars it was a band aid and for years manufactures tried to work out the kinks. (mid 70s - early 80's) A combination of light emissions standards and crude systems let them just band aid the car and meet the mandate requirements. Nissan is not a good example of this BTW. Ford, GM, Chrysler, etc are with their carb systems and development into electronic carbs with fuel metering rods, and then finally onto crude fuel injection systems. Nissans use of the Bosch system that was well developed by 1979 put them WAY above the bar by almost 10 years! Most manufactures really didnt start to get a working system out until fuel injection systems were worked in (1981-1989). Being able to swing the mixture is the key. Now once you have a good EFI system in place and a good cat you can actually go from mid 90% emissions clean up to 99.9% emissions clean up... leaving now only things like cold start emissions to be cleaned up, which is the current area they are working on. For reference BAR 84 Catalyzed std is a 4 gas analyzer O2, CO, HC, and CO2 no load testing two speed idle "TSI". BAR 90 is the first 5 gas analyzer reading all the current emissions. This is still a no load test TSI. BAR 96 SMOG Check II 5 gas analyzer and first loaded testing called a Advanced Simulation Mode or ASM test. 15mph @ 50% load and 25mph @ 25% load. This is the test that an L series would fail without a cat. The cat doesnt only start "working to compensate for Accel enrich., etc". Its just has more to work with at those events. You will have to have some basic chemistry, that graph, and a basic understanding of fuel mapping to completely understand this. Having the mixture swing rich lean rich lean keeps the catalytic process going in the cat at almost all times(except two way cats at idle). These transition areas fuel the catalytic process without the swing. Even at WOT the cat is doing something(It may be limited, but its catalyzing what it can) and is staying lit without the swing... Hold the engine at WOT for a long period of time and you risk having a chemical reaction with the substrate that will result in a melt down. This will happen at a certain temperature that I cannot remember off hand. Basically you end up dumping to much fuel into the exhaust at WOT over long periods of time that its far enough away from stioch to damage the cat. This situation is the result of mandates as Tony has sort of mentioned above. Basically as the tests change the manufactures have to find a way to cover these new areas of criteria. Mandates hit the manufacture long before the tests are worked out in most cases. Up currently as I mentioned before is cold start emissions. Manufactures are designing a cat to meet this new standards... Someday there will be a test to cover these standards Im sure. Its evolved from the 2 gas idle tests measuring only O2 and CO to what it is today. They are up to measuring part throttle loaded tests and measuring 5 gases. There are still gaps that they are trying to get covered by new mandates ie cold start emissions. Other recently in effect mandates would be Evaperative Emissions testing and the most recent snap throttle tests looking for tail pipe smoke that would be indicative of loaded untested(even by any current testing) excessive HC's.

came across this, this morning ebay add Dingaling ebayer

I hadnt realized that Nissan was out of stock on these studs... lame I was just stating that there was a lot of engineering and a part that fits may not be right so its hard to recommend using the part without some trial and error or full out testing. And thats why I went on to ask about getting back to us with your findings. Im not always the best at laying down my thoughts to paper... Im not much better in person

Yes NOx forms at 2500+*F That is one of the best graphs you will find. I have a similar one from the CIAT. The website from which I pulled it is actually good reading so far. Alternative Fuel lean combustion 101

If a ULEV had more O2 content it would be cleaner than the air you breath in any metropolitan area, but that is with the cat. Testing pre-cat is still DAMNED clean. Were talking 1% or less in reductions. If they didnt swing the fuel LRL the cat would never lite off. One thing to keep in mind is that a L24 was not subject to NOx or HC emissions. The L28 I believe was held to the "new" HC standards for smog.

Well, NO. If it had been then the thread starter would not have been asking about installation of a cat to rectify a stinky exhaust situation... Example: As of last month MY 1971 240Z stunk me out on decel, but I had known the culprit for many months. My AB valve diaphragm was faulty causing an eye burning situation upon decel through my missing hatch seal(esp with the driver window down). A few weeks ago I acquired a used, but functioning unit and no more eye-burning stink not even a little stink even with a missing hatch seal and the window opened at varying degrees... Every piece of my original emission equipment is installed and functioning. No stink! So back to the ~90% (I seem to remember a higher percentage but for the sake of this conversation 90 works). What I was trying to get at in regards to noxious fumes is that there would be no need for a cat on a Z if it were to be properly tuned(And actually Tony already stated that "You can get JUST as clean on HC/CO simply with carb adjustments and AIR without putting a flaming hot brick next to your transmission." on page 1 of this thread). A cat only cleans up a small amount of that last percent... Its not gonna solve stink.

And what happens when you run it as lean as possible? You missed my point. The cat is not a clean it all up device as Tony mentioned when he stated it was NOT a "scrubber". I was not particularly poking at you either. The statement whether it came out wrong or not that you had made was what I was commenting on. A general lack of knowledge about what a cat is and how it works is easily miss-interpreted by the general public as A. Evil Emissions Performance Robbing Device or B. That thing that will make their car pass smog. So when you say "Cats are actually one of the best devices to reduce emissions, IMO. " I have to disagree. That is the line of thinking for idea B. As I stated before the BEST way to reduce emissions is to get a complete and efficient burn of the A/F mixture in the chamber. not use a cat. If you ever spend any time at all using a 4 or 5 gas analyzer on an older carb'ed without a cat car you will find this out for yourself... If your a Ca smog tech then you know that figure Ca BAR gives you is 'something like' 90% emissions can be cleaned up BEFORE the cat.

Nissan Makes an upgraded replacement stud...I ordered a set through Nismoparts.com aka Titus Motor Group Nissan. The originals were to brittle if that is the correct word and could not deal with the expansion and contraction without shattering them. The term used to describe them to me was "to hard". The replacement studs are a tad bit softer and I have not had any problems after replacing the full set. The 4 front studs and the rear most stud tends to be the ones most affected by shape of the manifold and stresses applied. Knowing this would you still recommend a replacement stud for this critical part? Changing those studs is a pain so using parts that will fail again in short order would suck. That said I would love to see what kind of success you end up having with the Toyota part as the situation is similar. When you have some serious miles on a set of those would you please report back?

I guess I didnt touch on Cat operation. a two way cat functions as Tony describes. In older cars equipped with these cats will not be functioning at idle, cruise, or WOT. WOT I believe is a dwell issue. Its still functioning and is lit off, but its not efficient. You can see this by watching the O2 sensor. The O2 doesnt swing the mixture. The O2 only samples the swing in mixture. At idle on most of these old cars its hard for the O2 sensor to stay "awake". This is why they integrated heater circuits into the O2. The heater sensor does help cold start emissions, but also idle conditions where the exhaust is just to cold to support the O2 AND catalytic reaction. There isnt a heater circuit in the cat and if you idle for long enough even after a good long lite time it will cool off and not function again. At cruise the cat is lit off and the O2 is swinging. The cat though is doing very little(hopefully) though. Other emissions devices whether they be EGR, AIR, or combustion chamber design are in effect here to bring the efficiency up of the combustion process. If your cat is working had under cruise... you have other issues. Its not that it wont work under these other condition... in 2 out of 3 it is catalyzing... it just isnt making an effective change in a properly working system. A TWC system changes in one way. It will in most cases be lit off at idle and in most cases even before full engine operating temperature. Generally it will be working before closed loop operation of the fuel injection system. It will work in colder situations because the catalyst is not the same as the older two way cats. In most cases I believe the figure is 500* and its lit. Manufactures are in the process of making a sustainable catalyst that is effectively lit off from startup... but sustainable is the keyword. Drastic reductions in cold start emission is what they are after... I can only wonder what this "space age" tech cat derived from NASA will cost. Ground Horse Burger Paddies.

And that is the line of thought that has resulted in the Jan 2009 law that mandates all Cats be ODII certified. Techs that just replaced cats to clean up emissions for a smog gave the rest of us new headaches because of their lack of diagnosis and understanding of the whole system. Lets just slap another on it will clean up the emissions.... yeah for what 2 weeks. Guess they will be buying a new cat in 2 years... or 1 if Gross Polluter. The best way to reduce emissions is to get a complete and efficient burn of the A/F mixture in the chamber. 90% of the emissions devices revolve around this statement. Catalytic Converters and AIR being the 2 I can think of off hand that do not. More along that thought process by Tony ... Fix the Problem... Dont Band Aid it!

... You think a properly working cat is going to ROB power! HAHAHAHAHA Riddle me this... How does adding heat into the exhaust stream going to slow the system down and rob horsepower? The answer is: its not. The catalytic reaction will have a much higher temperature at the exit of the cat. This heat actually DRAWS more exhaust into the front of the cat creating a low pressure situation which will helps clear your combustion chamber when the exhaust valve opens... which is what a good header is suppose to do! Can we say GAIN! But you say and in whiny voice "But its a restriction! Look at the substrate... its a honey comb it must be a restriction!". Eat the Physics of Thermal Dynamics says I. 3HP loss... maybe in your jaloppy. Im afraid Tony is right here. a two way Cat will take CO and O2 and make CO2, as well as take HC + O2 and make more CO2 and Water... which gives you your catalytic efficiency by reading CO2 percentage. A TWC three-way-cat, which is what ALL OBDII vehicles have and some older ones now, will do something different. It will take NOx and strip the oxygen off in the first bed call the "Reduction Bed" and leave you with O2 and N2. The second bed known as the "Oxidation Bed" Functions much like a two way cat and reduces the same emissions as a two way cat, but doesnt usually require an extra "air" line for 02 as the striping of the NOx will provide the needed O2. Now if the thread starter lives in California and procured the cat after Jan 2009(effective law date) through a legal channel he has a TWC as per the law and it meets OBII criteria for certification and will have a serial number on the cat(It would also have been expensive). If he has an older cat or is not subject to California laws he most likely has a two way cat. Now on to the implications of installing one of these on one of our antiquated L series. Using either a two way cat or a TWC on the L series isnt the best idea. The ZX EFI system is adequate, but barely. The early L-Jetronics for the 280z dont even have an O2 sensor to make sure the mixture swings to keep the cat happy and require a 30+ year old system to be in good working order for that cat to stay alive. This WILL require a gas analyzer NOT a wideband to calibrate the system correctly for any long term use. Carbs... its been done, but its not worth the time IMO. To lean and the cat burns up. To rich and the cat burns up. Cats like a rapid swing from lean to rich to lean to keep the catalytic process going and not just a chemical reaction. Chemical reaction = BAD maybe even car fire! Carbs just cannot provide this swing in AFR. Thats just one physical limitation, and there are more. The key point to pickup on is that you CAN adjust the carbs and IF all the factory emissions equipment is in place and functioning you can drastically reduce the smell. Lets not worry about seals for the moment. If you had no hatch and no drivers door and all the seals in the car were out(which would leave you in the exhaust stream in a Z and I would know) you would still have no offensive smell from the car with stock SU's and all the original AIR system, AB valve, and throttle lift plunger installed and properly functioning. Years of wear and tear as well as all the garage mechanics that think "that smog crap must come off its robbing me of power" have left you with stink! Did I miss anything? Or is this one dead?

Always had issues with the counter guys when asking for differential "additive". I totally agree with the above statement.

The LD28 will bolt in and clear the hood no issues. The Z engine mounts and isolators will need to be used. The passenger side engine mount will need to be clearanced for the injection pump and re-enforced. Oil pan issue is the big sticky point. Oil sump pickup tube relocation and pan change to fit the Z mid sump design... Though if your REALLY lucky you will come across a Laural or other Nissan LD series with a mid sump pan already equipped. Domestic market LD28's came front sump in cars. Other applications such as industrial or marine may also have the block that is desirable for the Z. Been there done that. Cool swap if you have access to free fuel. HIGHLY recomend modification to the fuel tank. The stock tank WILL corrode and plug your lines and not because of bio fuel acidity... but how water intacts with diesel and diesel alternatives. I ran 2 primer pumps to get 2 water/fuel seperators and to catch anything else floating through my old fuel system. Another thing to tackle is Connecting rod bolt replacement. The LD rod bolts I have dealt with had over 200K miles and all of them were stretched. I discoved this after dealing with more than my fair share of rod tosses. BB chevy 454 rod bolts with a little help fit snug and are an excellent replacement. The glow plug system is kind of a pain, but can be bypassed to run off of a mommentary switch, but it will delete the afterglow system(which rarely works on the old maximas anyway). Everything else is pretty much bullet proof as long as its maintained. http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/ dig around on this site and hybridz and you will find diesel Z swaps...

Here we go with double posts again... Sorry

Did you install gears to? Most of time the break-in is determined by the gearset. The LSD break in will happen at the same time. Break is usually determined by heat cycling the gears which does something to the surface of the gears. Some gears are different. Over heating some new gears can lead to premature failure as it burns off a special layer instead of cooking it in and thats why a lot of them have special procedures. You can tell you over did it when you drain the fluid and it comes out black and burnt smelling... If you put a LSD in with an old set of gears personally I would follow general gear break in procedures anyway to insure that the LSD itself wears in, but thats just me and may not be nessasary. I dont worry so much with a freshening up of the bearings, seals, shims, etc... for me its already broken in and as long as the gear set is setup correctly Ive had no problems running them hard upon re-assembly. Just my opinion though. If I were you I would contact a local gear shop and ask what they do and follow that... When my logic fails that what I do. Looks like I was beat to the "post" button again. Additive is friction modifier. differnt types of LSD 'like' different types. Ive had good luck with the $13 bottle from GM that smells bad... Ive used it on lots of other LSD's other than GMs including my Nismo clutch type with success.... reminds me that I should change the fluid now. The last break in I had to do was over the top. This may not be complelely accurate, but its close. first 200 miles no faster than 50mph, stop every 20 miles or 15min and cool down for 30min. Next 300 miles speed unlimited, stop every 60miles or 1 hour and rest 30 min for cool down. Change Fluid and go. Richmond Gear set for Dodge dana 70's with new clutch style LSD. This was the breakin acording to the Richmond Gear warranty so its probably overkill, but we followed it. Other says take it easy for first 500miles and only in town driving for the first 100 miles or something. Its never the same.

I wonder why they said it wouldnt fit yours?

I hope its okay, I thought I woudl add in some history. Perhaps, "How to do a RHD" Cut up for conversion. Looking good, keep it up!

Best way to answer this question about the cam is to put in a gasser head on an L block. Use a dial gauge and degree wheel and see what kind of numbers you come up with. There are lots of numbers for stock cams out there. Compare the numbers to some of the stock cams and then look at the aftermarket cams ad see what it looks like. The Diesel cams do have a stamp on the back of them. I do not remember the letter off hand. My suspicion though is that you will find that the valve events are not conducive to gasoline engine operation to say nothing of overlap or duration for a diesel. Id be interested in the specs. I have not had a diesel cam in some time and I never got around to checking this myself to satisfy my curiosity about diesel cams.