z-ya

Nothing. You should not have any issues with cooling with your setup. It is the same setup they have been running on racing Z cars since the 70s. If you want to over engineer it, then look at this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/ We ran the 240Z and 1200 this weekend at a COMSCC time trial. The 240Z had zero cooling issues with ambient temps approaching 80F. It was the first time I've had the 1200 on the track. Here are some track videos (sorry about the vibration, I need a better phone mount) http://trackattackapp.com/?raceid=9bd0f97c-1aff-41ab-9ea9-e45c79ce7340&lapid=2ce4ad56-4a54-4a52-8198-4a4279c48c43

We don't run any more than 2.5 degrees negative camber in the rear on the race car.

My suggestion is to find a wheel that fits the work you have done. Looks great!

We went to the L7B because it was smaller than the aircraft cooler we had in there. We also shrouded the radiator, and lifted the back of the hood an inch or so. Check for combustion gases in the coolant. Also check for air in the system. I added a separate surge tank to bleed any air from the top of the thermostat housing. I think we are running a 3/4" restrictor in there now with the L24. No cooling issues, but then it is a different block, and at least 1.5 points less CR. The problem with my motor I believe was a crack somewhere in a cylinder wall that opened up when the engine hit around 190F. Then it just pumped combustion gases into the coolant. I have not tried to find the crack, but the block is the only thing I didn't change, and the same head I ran on the L28 has no issues on the L24. Pete

MSA cams are Scheider cams. My suggestion is not to cut the head 0.080. You can get very close to 9:1 CR without cutting it. It will run very nicely on 91 octane.

Cool

I second that!

Rub it in why don't you . I live in NH, and it was 15F at my house this morning....

You can run 91 on the setup I posted above. OEM rod, main and head bolts are fine for all street applications. With an 87mm bore, Felpro gasket, and flat top pistons you should be around 8.9:1.

Here is a config I built last year for a friend. He uses it on the street and for track days. It runs just fine on 93 pump gas with 34 degrees of advance. P90 head: Head was only resurfaced. Less than .005 removed Stock valves, and springs Fresh valve job This cam: http://schneidercams.com/260-70F_L6.aspx Correct lash pads F54 block: ITM 87mm flat top pistons Felpro head gasket Full balance. SU carbs with SM needles. The engine pulls strong to 6000RPM. I figure the CR is around 9:1.

Put the trim in after the rubber is on the glass, but before you install it in the car. Worked perfectly for me.

Here is how I did my last restoration: Install new weather stripping around glass on bench. Install SS trim in weather stripping Route string inside weather strip lip Lay assembly on vehicle Have someone put light pressure on the glass from the outside while a person on the inside pulls string out. Putting the SS trim on before installing glass is a huge time saver.

I am using the 5/8" bolts on the race car with nylock nuts and the T3 control arms. Been using them for years without any issue. For stock pins, lube them up with anti-seize before installing them. They will just push out with minimal effort if you need to service them in the future. Did this about 8 years ago on my street Z. I recently pulled the suspension apart, and they just pushed out.

I would say steel in wide versions. So you could either screw them on or weld and fill. There are no steel flares available for the S30 that I know of.

Sorry guys, I should have made it clear that my MSD 6AL-2 solution is for is for NA applications only. There is no provision for manifold pressure. For boosted applications it looks like 123 is a decent way to go especially if you want to keep the stock distributor look. All turbo builds I have done have been crank trigger direct fire using OEM individual coils. My latest build will use GM truck coils. This to me is the ultimate way to go for boosted applications.

It doesn't use any MAP. It really just acts like a mechanical retard. So you set the distributor for the max advance you will run. Then you program the retard curve from there. Just set the retard for RPMs below 500 for your crank timing. It works great on a 13.5:1 L28. Starter saver. You cal always keep the vacuum advance if you need it for a street application and just use the MSD to simulate the mechanical advance.

What I have done in the past is use a stock distributor that has the mechanical and vacuum advances locked, and used an MSD 6AL-2 programmable. I have also used an 82-83 turbo distributor, but then you need to swap the pump shaft as well. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-6530/overview/ Save yourself $100 over the 123 unit. The MSD also has CDI, rev limiter, and crank retard. I wrote on it here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97010-280zxt-distributor-with-progammable-msd/?hl=6530

Nice resetable circuit breakers. I use these on all my race cars. Very nice work.

No, the CR won't increase any more after shaving the top. If you can get 0.030" shims, then that is the way I would go. Just verify your cam timing once you put it all back together.

I just had a P90 straightened. They heat it, then use a press to straighten it, then let it cool with the press still applying pressure. $130. Then I had my machinist just take a few thousands off the bottom for clean sealing surface. Since you have already taken 12 thousands off the bottom, then you also have to take the same off the top and shim the cam towers of the cam will bind. This is how I knew my head was warped, because I couldn't get the cam to spin freely. You will need either custom shims (there is someone on Hybrid that makes them), or use 2 sets of 0.05 shims. Also realize that your compression ratio will increase as well. Pete

Check the hose between the AFM and the TB for cracks.

If you want to paint it in a racing scheme, why not choose a scheme that was run on a historic Datsun instead of Ford? This is a cool webiste: http://www.racingsportscars.com/make/photo/Datsun.html I like the Brad Frisselle 260Z below. I think Adam Carolla owns it now.

I would use a high quality oil, and change it in the fall so the internal engine components are coated with fresh oil. Once a year.

Brad Penn is what I run in the race car.

I run leaded 110 in my race car too, and it already clogged up two sensors. It is my understanding that cleaning them in unleaded gas will make them new again.