Pop N Wood

I hope to someday have a car nice enough to be pirated even half as often as Austin's.... Are we going to bid it up to 10 million dollars again?

They pulled the listing. I wonder what happened.

Oh man, have to disagree with that one. You still have to remember to disconnect the breaker you installed to the generator either way so I don't see your method being any safer. Plus, I don't know about your area, but my power meter is sealed in place with lead seals. I would have to break those seals to "pull the meter" which means the power company has to come out to reinstall the meter. Then they are going to want to know if I tampered with the meter and most likely want to charge me a service fee. But the #1 reason not to do it that way is the power could come back on at any time you are F'ing around with the meter, so in effect you could be working on a live circuit and not knowing it. Power will flow back through a breaker just as easily as it flows out of the breaker. The only two dangers of running the the generator back through a breaker is forgetting to disconnect the main breakers and having a power cord with two male ends. But when in doubt, the extension cord method works. Like I said as long as you are careful flipping the breakers the back feed method will work in an emergency.

http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/broken-bolts.shtml

Damn guys. Why all the gloom and doom? He is just trying to get through with no power. You don't have to have an automatic transfer switch as long as you are careful about manually flipping the breakers. You won't burn your house down either. 10KW is actuall a good sized generator. I know for a fact a 5KW generator is more than enough to put between two houses and run the fridge, freezer and a bunch of lights in both houses. You can even run the blower motor on a gas furnace (but not electric or heat pump!) Things like washer and dryer, electric stoves, dishwashers and large power tools are off limits. Your generator will have a 220V outlet that has some rated output in amps. Probably 20 or maybe 30 amps. Make sure the circuit you plug it into is has a breaker larger than the one on the generator. Also make sure the cord you use to connect the generator to the house plug is large enough for the rated amps on the generator plug. Once you are hooked to the house just be careful what you turn on. 10kw will easily run your fridge, freezer, sump pump (if you have one) and a good number of house lights. It will even run the fan on a gas furnace allowing you to have heat. Turn on few things at a time and watch the generator to see what it is happy with. When the power comes back on, turn off the generator and disconnect the power cord from the house BEFORE closing any breakers again.

Oh I never said he couldn't be a jerk...

I don't understand what you are doing with multiple extension cords, but yeah if you trip the main breaker and plug the 220 out on the generator into a house plug, it should power up your entire house. I have known several people who have done this for days on end. I should also point out that I have read articles in the newspaper that says what a bad idea this is, but still people do it. You can even go through your breaker box and turn off breakers to circuits you know you don't want power too. 10K is not a lot of power. Remember that construction type generators don't regulate voltage overly well, so if you plug in electronics like TV's or computers there is a risk you could burn them up.

JTR has separate pages for the LS1 stuff and the generation 1 and 2 SBC stuff For LS1's, #DAT-405P is the plain, uncoated version and #DAT-405C is the ceramic coated version.

Junk yards work. GM parts direct sells bolts. This is a good way to go for LSx engines because I like the aluminized coating they put on the LS specific bolts. summit racing and JEGS all carry bolts. McMaster Carr will sell them in individual bolts and will sometime get them to you in less than a day. A company called Fastenal has stores all over and sells high quality bolts, but in boxes of 25.

Man, that would be something. My dream engine.

Katman can be pretty, ahh, direct. But what he says is usually worth listening to. Overall a good guy to have contributing to your threads.

It can be difficult to diagnose when one phase of a three phase system goes out. I could tell you stories from when I worked in a nuc plant, but they are pretty boring.

Thats a terrible price given everything that is missing and the fact that is the least desirable year of LS1. Look at the price of the complete unit from a 2000 trans am in this ad http://stores.ebay.com/Fparts_LS1-LS6-LS2-Engines

About half way down the page on the left is a link that you are looking for http://zhome.com/ A new, uncracked dash on a 240 is worth about $1000. Straight bumpers are pricey too. Check the rust carefully, especially on the underside. If all of that is good, than the car is well worth $4K. If you have any skills as a mechanic than the condition of the engine is almost immaterial. You could pick up a spare on this site for a few hundred bucks. It is the condtion of the body's that really determine the worth.

Well, possibly yes again. If you repeatedly bend a piece of metal back and forth it gets work hardened. That makes it brittle and prone to cracking. The solid mount is what caused the crossmember to get hard and crack. Solid mounting the rear would have help limit the motion and possibly prevented the front from going. But regular inspections might have discovered the degradation before such a catastrophic failure.

Well, no, they are the issue. Something has to flex, and by using a solid front mount and flexible rear mount means the flexure HAD to happen in the steel of that almost 40 year old cross member. I would be willing to bet if you magnafluxed any of your other crossmembers you will find some level of stress cracks on at least some of them. Actually you are getting to the level of performance where normal rules no longer apply. JohnC once posted the preventive maintenance he did on his race car between each race and on a yearly basis. Might be a good idea to do something similar with the beast you have. On the up side this answers the question we had on another thread about whether the diff is subject to twisting along the car centerline. I wonder if you had a functioning arrestor strap if it would have saved the back of your diff.

That should be effective. Maybe not the 100% pristine engineering solution, but some times you have to work with what you have.

I had an old car that use to do that and it was valve guides. Oil leaks down around the valves and fouls the plugs while it sits overnight, then takes a little while to burn the plugs clean when it gets started. On my V8 it as the rear most plugs that fouled since the engine tilt caused them to be the lowest. The correct fix is to get a head job. On some cars it is possible to replace the valve seals without pulling the head. A short term work around is to try some hotter plugs. A good parts store should be able to help you get the hotter plugs. Also make sure the rest of the ignition is in good shape.

It shouldn't. Lowering the nose of the diff changes the tilt. You will then need to tilt the engine to match. Getting the diff more "level" allowed me to sit the motor more level giving me more tranny to ground clearance. If your motor is really high, then you may need some more backwards tilt on the engine to let the top of the tranny clear the tunnel. If that happens, you can put some washers on the mustache bar mounts to lower the rear of the diff thus getting the angle of the engine and diff to match.

Do the HybridZ DIY version http://alteredz.com/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm There are tons of supporting threads where others have done something similar.

Yeah. Use the stock GM computer and either have someone reprogram it or get HPTUNER and a laptop to reprogram it yourself. That is what everyone else does.

Z Gads!! That's impressive! Expensive too. Looks like you were still running the original R180 cross piece that came with your 72. The later R200 pieces are significantly heavier. There also looks to be significant rust on the inside of that piece. What type of tires were you running? How long have you had the solid front mount and how many launches do you figure it had on it? We have had a lot of threads about fatique cracking with a solid front mount and flexible rear mount. Sounds like time to do the Ron Tyler front diff support. Maybe Ron was right about that 1/4 plate......

If you only have one spring gone bad, then wouldn't the back firing be limited to that one bore of the one carb?

All I can say is there goes the neighborhood. Now we have to worry about a bunch of rich mofo's throwing money around to try and impress each other and driving the price of our hobby out of reach. On second thought, now that I have looked at the pics I don't think we have to worry about this one selling for an excessive price.

Do yourself a huge favor and fix the headlights right http://alteredz.com/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm