Pop N Wood

You wouldn't happen to have a link of that handy, would you?

I don't know, with just a little bit of effort that second car looks like it would be pretty effective at snow removal.

You guys have too much faith in the "authorities". I can tell you first hand that short of undeniable and repeated physical abuse it is difficult to get kids taken away from parents. It is not a simple process. People lie and try to cover their tracks. Kids do stupid things. I wouldn't be here today if I had crossed paths with some of you guys.

I am pretty sure JohnC moved his engine down as well as back. If it were me, I would cut the Datsun MM towers off the stock crossmember and just fab up some new towers that extend back and don't go up as high. I would also leave the stock trans ears alone (they shouldn't get in the way) and add some new ones however far back I was moving the L6. You are then spending a few hundred dollars for a new driveshaft and, depending on where your stock shifter came out originally, reworking the shifter hole and possibly lever. FWIW my LS swap did not require removing the stock trans ears. Another option is to find a drive shaft from a 70 240 that had the diff in the forward mounted positions. Those shafts are 35 mm shorter than the later shafts. This would give you and inch and a half rear movement without the expense of the driveshaft. With such a small set back you would unquestionably be able to use some type of set back plates on the motor mounts. You would then just need to redo the trans xmember, but might be able to get away with something that still uses the stock ears. As for a second crossmember, Ron is right in that the frame rails behind the stock crossmember are awfully thin. But I found it a simple matter to sheath the rails with a piece of 18 guage, then weld some 3/8 inch pipe through the rails to keep the mounting bolts from collapsing the rails.

Roger that

Spongebob Squarepants

Lots of discussion on this type of thing on LS1TECH.com. For one thing, if you have it on a breather you tend to get underhood fumes and oil residue on the engine around the breather.

I woould have been afraid to knock too much dirt and rust off with that power washer. It might have been the only thing holding that old car together.

The TKO is just an upgraded tr-3550. They are the same size. This link says what needs to be done to put a TKO behind a 428 Cobra Jet in an early Mustang. Modified crossmember and some tunnel clearance. http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/3550_66_mustang.html

Hooker makes a muffler with dual inlets and a single outlet. That is how I plan to run duals and still use a single muffler in the stock location. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HOK%2D21510HKR&N=700+400390+4294922710+4294906128+115&autoview=sku We will see

Then the next question you have to ask is why did the fluid leak out?

You can get stainless MIG wire cheaply at any welding store. Hell, even Home Depot has it. Using that and Argon-CO2 gas and it is just like welding mild steel.

Are you sure it is leaking and you didn't just spill some fluid?

TKO's are suppose to be good to 600 ft-lbs. They fit behind a 302. Can they be made to fit a BB?

Man, I don't know. It says shell. Does it even have and engine and transmission? Would have to check it out very carefully before shelling out that kind of money.

No teflon. They are compression fittings. If the fluid is getting to the threads then they have already failed. The seal occurs where the tapered part hits the flare of the brake line/fitting. If you are still getting air after having flushed a half liter of fluid, then my guess is you have a loose fitting. Also, when you open the bleed valve, turn it back down with your fingers until it just starts to touch. That way air will not be sucked back in through the threads of the bleed valve.

82 yards...

Yeah, I had that one coming. I never would have predicted that outcome and I would have put money up against anyone who did.

For me personally it is just because I wanted one. A little more consistent with the era of my 240. Plus I fool with computers all day and wanted something more primeval as a hobby. As for real advantages, for a crate motor with all new parts it is cheaper. The fuel injection stuff can get expensive if you buy it piece by piece. If had gotten a used, pull out motor then I would have stayed FI. From a performance standpoint, this engine is rated at about 40 more HP than the same LS2 crate motor with a FI top end. It also has more torque throughout the band. Not sure if that is due to the open plenum intake manifold or just a more performance and less emissions oriented tune of the carb vs. the basically stock FI. But that is how GM rated them to sell them. Also with the carb it is somewhat easier since I can keep the stock tank, all the stock gauges and there is less wiring. Should be a really clean and simple looking install when done.

Well, if you do a search on the subject you will find at least a half dozen members who have damaged their cars trying to use a line lock as a parking brake. It is a pretty good anti-theft device, or good for doing rear wheel burnouts, but as for a parking brake just say no. The proportioning valve can be mounted in the engine bay since once it is set, you shouldn't have to keep readjusting it.

That's a kind offer. But I do have an LS2. Amazing how different everything gets when it is first an LS2 motor and second a Corvette. Probably means the balancer won't work either. I am pretty sure I have everything. Just need to start cobbling everything together. Will probably order the driveshaft this week or next. Got the engine mounted with the S&P bisquits and the energy suspension tranny mount. That damn thing is solid! Can't get it to wiggle shaking it by hand. Maybe 400+ ft-lbs of torque will get it to bend over. Thanks for all the compliments. The tranny mount seemed like more work than it needed to be. But once I got going it was kind of fun bending and shaping the steel. An alternator mount is next, then fuel lines, brake lines, radiator, fan switch, wiring, throttle cable, maybe move hood latch ..... Long list. At least the wife is mad at me so good excuse for a lot of garage time.

My guess is drunk driving.

http://www.zbarn.com/ http://www.baddogparts.com/ http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm And of course parts america and midway auto for generic parts.

Finally got the engine mounts sorted out. The last piece was the trans crossmember. Not 100% sure I won't redo it, especially once I get around to doing subframe connectors. But this set up should allow me to hook the crossmember into the subframe connectors. That energy suspension mount sure looks sweet. diff alignment came out really good. the engine is point down just ever so slightly more than the diff is pointed up. Should equalize once under torque. There is enough room to add shims/washers under the urethane mount if need be.