Pop N Wood

You can't go to a local body shop supply store? Any place that sells auto paint should have prep material. Ospho. Or how about the internet? Amazon carries it, although it is shipped through Midway auto. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver/dp/B0002JN204

page 102 of the Black Dragon Auto. You won't like the price. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0102.html Two other options for new parts http://www.courtesyparts.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ And for used parts http://www.zbarn.com/ http://www.baddogparts.com/ The internet is your friend.

That is interesting Pretty damn big carb for a 283

Don't need no books to tell me how to do dat.

I think one is suppose to be a goesin and the other a goesout. So you would draw a suction on the valve cover vent and put a fresh air inlet on the crankcase vent. Here is another option I learned about while poking around LS1 tech You weld the bungs in on the down stream side of your turbo downpipes and hook in that whistle looking pipe. Put the breathers in the valve covers and hook a hose between the breather and the exhaust pipe using the check valve. The exhaust velocity then draws a vacuum on the pipe and sucks all the crankcase nastiness into the exhaust rather than the intake manifold. Apparantly these things work pretty good, especially with turbos. Do a search on LS1tech.com and read the posts from guys who are actually running them.

If you do a search, and if the search engine is feeling generous (a HUGE if), you might find a thread where someone posts the Mc Master Carr part number for generic weatherstripping that works for Z doors. It will save you big bucks over a kit. Also beware of cheap kits. Not all of them fit properly. I wouldn't buy a set unless you read a post where someone said that specific brand worked for them.

Well, maybe I was being too subtle. You were stating how well engineered and matched the AZC set up was. If it is so well balanced with the 4 pistion, 12.2 inch front brakes, how can it possibly be balanced with the larger stuff up front and the same rear brakes? Unless, of course, the bigger front brakes have no more stopping power than the smaller ones. So either one of those two systems is an unbalanced, mixed bag of catalog parts or "the option" just adds $650 of bling.

PCV catch cans are a pretty common addition to GM LS motors. Here is a popular version from LS1tech.com http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589855&page=1&pp=20 And here is the $40 Arkansas special http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=563211

I know the early 240 SU's are a pretty popular upgrade for the 260's with the flat tops. There is no reason why they shouldn't work with a 280 or even 3.1 stroker. If it won't run with the choke off then you might have a vacuum leak that the choke is masking.

Is anyone running stock truck manifolds? Anyone know if they fit for sure? Just curious if you have tried them on an LS motor sitting in the engine bay. I know on my L6 it was the headers that made the nice glub glub idle sound and droned at cruise speed. So it would make sense that stock type manifolds would be the first step to avoiding the droning sound.

You're going to need a good chunk of that $2K just to do the swap..... Exhaust, cooling, fuel pump, wiring, reprogramming. Stuff adds up.

The cleanest pic I have is with the engine out. This thing sits just below the coil. That bottom nipple goes to the small nipple Y'd off the crankcase vent. The top one went I believe to the back of the stock air cleaner. But since I switched to the dual webers some 15 years ago that is coming from memory.

Aren't the bigger 6 piston calipers and 13 inch rotors a $650 option with the AZC front brake kit? Guess they don't offer any additional braking power since AZC only offers a single brake kit for the rear.

By converter do you mean the speedo converter? I thought the only thing required to "recalibrate" the tach was to turn one adjustment screw to the end of it's travel. At least that is what the JTR manual says, is it different for LS motors? Also make sure you have a 280 tach and not a 240 tach, since the 240 units are current activated and, as per the JTR manual, will not work with the more modern tach drives (which I believe are voltage activated).

The problem isn't the brakes. The problem was the longer wheel studs and spacers. I did the upgrade and tried to make them work with the stock steel wheels. I got close by doing some light grinding on the inside of the wheels and on some of the caliper bumps. When this didn't quite get it done, I got some 1/2 inch spacers (you shouldn't have needed 1 inch) but realized the spacers were going to require longer studs. Not liking the sounds of this I just gave up and just went to my 15 inch wheels. They clear fine. Really, any significant brake upgrade is going to require larger diameter wheels anyway, so I don't think it is fair to blame this one on the 4x4 swap.

Yeah, there should be a vacuum operated valve that T's the tank line to one place or the other. It was mounted to the fender right where the current vent line ends. I could get you pics if you are really interested.

I bought a summit protorque starter for my LS2 and noticed the same. The bendix can only push the starter gear out far enough to put the end of the gear about half way into the flywheel teeth. I have yet to power up the starter, so I don't know if this will cause a problem. But if you are having problems, then it is increasing my worry that I will too. Shims will not fix this problem because they move the starter centerline away from the crank centerline. In this case it looks like the starter needs to be moved farther backwards. Witht he LS starter, the aluminum block they put the mounting bolts through is moved forward about 1/8th of an inch from the back of the block. In my case it looks like that 1/8 inch offset would make all the difference in the gear engagement. Maybe we both need to give Summit a call. Plus for the LS engines the electrical lugs are on the back side of the starter next to the engine. This looks like a major PITA since I will most likely have to drop the starter to gain access.

Not vacuum, just clean air. Don't need to suck dirt into the carbs. With K&N filters you could have tapped your own fitting into the air cleaner pan. The tank vent is an emissions thing. It is suppose to vent into the intake when the engine is running and to the crankcase when the engine is off. At least that was the way my 70 was plumbed. Newer cars replace the crankcase vent with a charcoal canister. You don't want to completely block off the vent line to the tank. But you could cut it off back by the differential if you want to save that extra half pound of tubing.

Hope you feel better. My plant was shut down all last week and I got sick on Tuesday. Missed a whole week of 50° weather where I could have worked on the Z. thanks for the idear though.

Made my own adaptor Drilled out the stock block heater plug using a 3/4 step drill. Then tapped a 1/2 NPT threads into the stock plug (McMaster Carr part number 2525A115), fit a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer bushing (McMaster Carr # 50785K264), then to a Sunpro M16x1.5 to 3/8 matrix adaptor I had to drill out the inside of the metric adaptor to get the stock temp sensor to fit. If I do it again I will do this with a hand file rather than drill since I didn't perfectly center the step sholder inside the metric piece. Hopefully there will be no leaks. I will probably solder the reducer to the stock plug and use some type of conductive sealant on the metric adaptor to bushing joint. Need good electrical contact for the sensor to work.

Well bump if nothing else. I remember reading something with the alternator feeding back if a diode isn't wired into the circuit properly. Hopefully someone with a more complete understanding will chime in, otherwise a search should turn up this problem. Since I AM NOT AT WORK, I got bored and did a search for you. cozy Cole posted something about what I was thinking http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113153&highlight=feedback http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113331&highlight=diode+running

Now that you mention it my 69 Camaro had a "unibody" rear half also. But not exactly optimized for light weight.