Pop N Wood

You need to make absolutely certain whether it is a 260 or 280. The late 260's are the same as 280's. The early 260's are more like a 240. There were a lot of significant differences between the 240's and 280's (like strut tubes sizes etc.) So you may have trouble back fitting some 280 parts on a 260. There was a recent thread on the cost of floor board - frame rail replacements. Figure $1500 to $2000 to have a shop do the welding with you doing all the disassembly/reassembly. $200 for a rust free shell doesn't sound so bad when looked at in that light. Just make certain the new car is really as rust free as the guy thinks it is.

Maybe you were clicking it wrong.

Go to http://www.baqddogparts.com and look. They have detailed pics of both. The big thing is stock from the factory 240's only had partial rails that end just behind the seat mounts. Factory 280's have much more better rails that go the full length of the passengers compartment. The baddog rails are made to take advantage of the structural differences of the two models.

Well you didn't offer that as of 9 pm last night. At least it wasn't on your web site.

Thanks for the quick reply. I was trying to order through Jegs and was having zero luck finding one. The LS1 motor has a 5/8" outlet and 3/4" return. That is what my GM LS1 installation guide says. As for the Datsun stuff, you are right, it's not in my manual either. I don't know the answer for sure.

The LS motors have different sized heater hose inlets and outlets (I think 3/4" and 5/8"). the Z heater core uses the smaller size for both inlet and outlet. Where did you guys get the adapters to mate the hoses, or am I missing something simple?

So he is. I'm a moron. I somehow read brakes. Nevertheless, you could still do clutch hydraulics anywhere. Now if it was the clutch itself, that I might want to have it in a shop somewhere.

That engine bay looks familiar to me. There was a recent picture posted on this site of that bay. You know it is pretty easy to start your own church.....

I once did a complete brake job while my car was parked in the dorm parking lot. If you have all the parts together there is no reason you can't do it in a school parking lot inbetween classes. Bleeding brakes is a one man job if you do it right.

I am glad this thread was edited and brought back from the shed. good info in here WD40 does wonders for a quick handgun preservation too.

Wished it worked that way. 73's are exempt from smog testing, but still required to meet all smog laws applicable to that year.

People have raised some good points here that I didn't think of. If the mechanical WP is trying to move more water than it needs to, then yes, it will needlessly be consuming power. The cavitation issue is definitely real, and something I hadn't thought of. However the article above contains some inaccuracies, such as "the alternator is running anyway". More current draw = more load. One last thing to consider is the cooling load undoubtably varies with engine load. Thus having the WP flow rate vary with RPM may not be a bad thing. If the electric pump is constant speed, then the coolant flow will be the same regardles of RPM. This means the flow rate has to be set for the worst case heat load, which means the electric pump could very well be be drawing excess power when the heat load is low. Probably putting too much thought into this. Personally I would rather spend the $$ on better heads.

Only when it is not running. Otherwise it is loading down the alternator and putting the same load on the engine.

I copied this off of an LS1TECH post. It is SDPC reccomendation for their crate motors Information and Break-In Recommendations for Your SDPC Engine or Short Block Thank you for choosing Scoggin-Dickey as your engine supplier! Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center opened its doors in 1929 and since that time we have been one of the leading suppliers of complete engines, short blocks, and engine components. It is our goal to provide you with the latest in engine technology and the highest standard of performance. Whether you have purchased a new OEM factory built crate engine or a custom built SDPC engine or short block, it is imperative that you take the time to read the following instructions in regards to engine oil, PCV systems, fuel systems, and engine break-in. Today’s Oil and What You Need to Know Motor oil has had several significant changes in the last ten years and more importantly in 2004 a decision was made to reduce the sulfur and the zinc-phosphorus compounds (ZDDP). The ZDDP is used as the primary anti-wear agent for internal engine components. Beginning with the 2004 model of new vehicles, the Federal Government has asked auto manufacturers to warranty catalytic converters for 120,000-miles. Most catalytic convertors eventually fail from harmful gases emitted thru the exhaust, and two of these are the phosphorous and sulfur which were a prevalent make-up of our older motor oils. All engines will consume some oil thru the exhaust! While in most cases this is only a very small amount, the automakers decided it was time to change the chemistry of motor oil rather than adding to the cost of catalytic converters. This change in engine oil has had a significant impact on the performance engine world, specifically engines with forged pistons and/or flat tappet camshafts. The lack of the zinc-phosphorus compounds has been a primary cause of premature failure in flat tappet camshafts and lifters. Current oils for gasoline engines have the ZDDP compounds reduced by 20% or more. We have seen an overwhelming increase in piston scuff and premature ring wear. We have torn down performance engines with less than 1500-miles and seen piston scuff and ring wear that looked as if the engine had 100,000-miles! All caused from super low viscosity oils with poor anti-wear characteristics and a lack of following proper break-in procedures. If you have purchased a custom built short block with forged pistons and a performance ring package, then we have taken every precaution to coat the cylinder walls, pistons, and rings with an anti-wear agent. However, it is imperative that you choose engine oil with a significant amount of ZDDP and we require the addition of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) for a minimum of the first 90-minutes. For forged pistons with moly rings or HD steel rings and engines with flat tappet camshafts we suggest an engine oil with a minimum ZDDP content of the following; Approximate Percentage by Weight Zinc – 0.120 Phosphorus – 0.115 Suggested Oils; Shell Rotella-T 15W40 API Specification CI-4 Plus Valvoline NSL Racing Oil 10W30 (Conventional Motor Oil, excellent for break-in!) Pennzoil 25W50 Racing Motor Oil PCV Systems The LS-Series engines are prone to excessive crank case pressure build-up resulting in oil blow-by, oil consumption, and oil wetting of the intake manifold. One of the first changes from GM to help resolve this issue was the bay-to-bay “windows†placed in the main webs of the blocks. Any increase in cubic inches places more demand on the PCV system, regardless of the engine type. GM has made several changes to the PCV systems over the years and many consumers have a mismatch of parts and components. It is imperative that you inspect your PCV system and make certain that it functions properly. If you are using a factory PCV system it is required that you use a new “fixed orifice†PCV valve for routing your pressure relief hose from the valve cover. This valve is included with all custom SDPC LS-Series short blocks and engines. The GM part number for this item is #12572717. Fuel System and Tuning It is imperative that you make every effort to have your fuel system in proper working order prior to engine start-up. Inspection of the supply lines, return lines, filters, regulators, and proper fuel pressure are the responsibility of the car owner and/or installer. It is extremely critical that you have a PCM calibrated for the correct pressure and injectors before starting the vehicle. Any over rich condition existing for an extended period of time during the initial start-up will cause piston scuffing, ring wear, and severely hinder the ability for the rings to seat properly and may ruin the complete engine! It is the responsibility of the owner and/or installer to calibrate the PCM or the carburetor to prevent internal engine damage. Engine Break-In Use the correct engine oil with the addition of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS)!! We recommend two 45-minute break-in periods allowing ample time between each for a complete cool down of the engine. Each period should consist of varied RPM and load with a limit on the RPM of 4500. Avoid extended duration of constant RPM! After the 90-minute period you should drain the oil and inspect the filter. Replace with a new filter and use one of the recommended oils from the list above or one that you have verified that has the proper amount of ZDDP. If you have purchased an engine with forged pistons it is imperative that you always use oil with sufficient ZDDP for the entire life of the engine! We do not recommend a change to Synthetic oil until a minimum of 5000-miles to insure proper ring seating. SDPC does not warranty any application with the use of power adders i.e. – turbochargers, superchargers, nitrous. If it is determined that premature ring wear, ring sealing, or piston scuffing, and/or engine failure is the result of improper tuning, incorrect oil, improper installation, and/or the use of power adders, then all repairs, parts, materials, shipping expenses, and labor will be the sole responsibility of the purchaser.

WTF is that thing? Razors and rubber erasers? I guess you press it down on a piece of cardboard to cut circular guage faces?

kitty litter or sawdust. Just get it right away.

I thought the Corvette went to fiberglass leaf springs back in the 80's.

Don't know about the illumination but clear radiator hoses are actually a good idea. Wouldn't have to pop the radiator cap to see if you are low on coolant. Can't imagine they wouldn't corrode and gunk up in short order.

neat how he seems to always turn the car out before rotating it back into a turn.

Didn't a member, I think Jamie T, fit a set of 300ZX hubs to a 280? If I remember correctly he had to do a lot of fabrication to get it to work. The search engine can be onery at times.

Thanks alot. I have a crate motor with supposedly a 50 hour break in already done, so will have to read it again more carefully to make sure what applies. Thanks again.

Steering shafts with good U joints. They haven't made the rack joint in 20 years.

Finished the alternator mount. Need to pretty up the welds and paint, but mount looks solid, good clearance all around and a 60" belt fit perfectly. Quite a pick and pull special, a 90 Celica alternator with a 6 rib pulley off an 80 something Supra. The Corvette accessories and low/back engine placement meant an F body mount just wasn't going to work. You can see the steel mount I had to make to get the Corvette mounts to clear the JTR headers on the passengers side. S&P bisquit mounts makes for a solid mount.

Mine is a 12/70 so I don't think the ears get much earlier. I had to build my own mounts. Pretty sure the reason I didn't need to remove the ears is because I used a TKO instead of a T56. There is actual a LOT of room around the trans.