Pop N Wood

I have had extremely good luck with gieco. I might be one of the exceptions, but I swear by them. They have paid more than one claim on my part and have never raised my rates. There are many different types of car insurance. I had a state farm policy that basically let me keep my car in the garage but not to drive it (my state requires insurance to keep plates). It was about $30 every 6 months. Maybe your policy was similar? The price was so cheap because the risk was so minimal. Guess they feel the risk is higher now that you don't have control over the vechicle. If your car has been in a body shop for that long, then why do you need insurance on it? Doesn't the shop have insurance that covers customer's cars? Looking back it looks like I am defending gieco. I am not trying to do that so no flames please. Just trying to help you figure out options.

I have to install a pilot bearing to day. Think I can use another Z car to help with that task?

Do you have a chin pan? Datsun back fit a sheet metal pan between the frame rails and behind the radiator to help smooth out under car turbulence and improve air flow through the radiator at speed. It helped with my otherwise stock 240. Previaling wisdom on this site is overheating at idle is a fan issue, but overheating while moving is an airducting issue.

Most probably answer is no. The more fundamental question is why would you want to? Better to use a GM specific trans.

Yeah, that engine has come down a good bit since I bought mine 3 months ago. GMPP can usually stick you pretty good on shipping/hadling fees. Run through their web page order and see what I mean. Take the part number to your local GM dealer and see what price they charge. You will pay taxes (which technically you are suppose to pay on any internet order), but GM will cover the shipping. I ordered mine on July 3 and got it 3 days later even with the holiday inbetween. http://www.paceauto.com has it for $5300, but that includes shipping to a local freight company. http://www.sdpc2000.com has it for $5095, but I am not sure what they charge for shipping. There are a few quirks with that engine compared to a typical F body install. But I just about have the installation on mine figured out. Looks super sweet sitting in the engine bay. Can't wait to hear it roar.

That is just it, I don't think you can make it work with a turbo. Don't know anything about that engine but unless it has some type of valves then I don't see how you could get a turbo to work. But a supercharger might work.

Bingo. On a standard 2 stroke the intake and exhaust ports are open at the same time. The turbo needs exhaust pressure to work. Build up exhaust pressure and you will also backpressure the intake port. The 2 stroke GM turbo diesel in the nuke plant I worked in had a single exhaust valve at the top of the cylinder and ports at the bottom of the cylinder bores for intakes. Thus the intakes were only open when the piston was near the bottom of it's stroke. The turbo was clutch driven to develop "boost" during start up. I have also heard of opposing piston, 2 stroke diesels that had cranks at the top and bottom of the engine with separate pistons at either end of each cylinder. When the pistons were all the way apart, they unshrouded an intake port at one end and an exhaust port at the other. Thus the pistons themselves worked like valves. These engines also use some type of turbo or supercharger to force air into the cylinders. That is what I was thinking.

Truly one of the more bizarre threads in the HybridZ directory. If you are really worried about EMP you have your work cut out for you. In 1962 the military detonated a high altitude 1.4 megaton airburst over the Pacific. The EMP burst was so strong is blew out the fuses on the street lights in Hawaii over 1400 km away. Something like that could conceivable blow the fusible links in a Z. Tubes will be of no use since the metal grids will be very effective antennas. The induced currents from long runs of wiring could even break down basic insulation and even transformer wiring. Your only hope is to convert all open wiring to fiber optic cables and put any sensitive electronics in heavily shielded and sealed boxes. Miniature electronics and rad hardened semiconductors like they use in satellites are also highly desired. But IMO the best way to insure you can get out of Dallas is to pack a cache of weapons in the spare tire well. That way if the Z electronics get taken out, you can easily appropriate a running vehicle and all the fuel you need. Good luck. Maybe your banning is not the work of the site, but is simply the work of some larger group who is trying to stem the dissemination of knowledge concerning EMP shielding of automobiles. Think about it.

Sorry, just read it close enough to see the problems are only with the hood in place. Can you get a hood from a mid 70's Z with the two vents? I have those and they really radiate some heat when sitting in traffic.

I think you will have a hard time getting dad to pay for it There is a country western song in your post somewhere.

Lot of engine. Maybe adding an oil cooler will help. I assume you have done all the standard stuff like flush the block etc. Make sure your lower radiator hose isn't collapsing. Needs to have a spring in it. Quite a few guys found that to be a problem. I assume your timing is good too. some guys have fixed overheating problems by adjusting that. Make sure you seal the shroud around the radiator to prevent air leaking past the rad. Beyond that, there was a guy on here who installed two auxilliary radiators (i.e. heater cores) either down in the wheel wells or off the front air dam brake ducts (can't remember which). He swore by them. I always thought this was an uneeded fix since most guys don't have to go to that extreme. But if your engine is radiacal enough maybe that is what you need (short of a bigger radiator).

I think an analog MM will load down the sensor too much. Pretty sure you have to have the high input impedance of a digital MM to read the weak signal from an 02 sensor. Well I already have the MM and the wideband O2, so if I ever get the motor running I guess I will find out what works. All it will cost me is a mounting bung.

You're running the F body accesories. The vette acc on my crate motor puts the belt back 3/4 inch. I tried to do what you did but could not make it work. But the alternator I got out of a Celica should do the trick. The pics below have roughed in brackets to determine clearances. Have already pulled the unit to make something more substantial. The belt route looks good. Will be able to delete the idler that sits on the stock bracket. I have a good inch on the side and below the alt. Think the engine will rock that much? Those S&P bisquits don't seem to have much give. Now to do something about the steering shaft hitting that vette aluminum motor mount. May need to make a new one out of steel.

BTW, if all you have done is round the hex head, then first off try a 6 point vs. 12 point socket. If that doesn't work, a lot of times you can hammer the next smaller size of metric or standard 12 point socket onto the damaged bolt. The welder trick is a good one also. Another possible solution is to cut off the bolt head making it a stud. This only works if the part can then be removed allowing a pair of vice grips to be used to remove the remaining stud.

Thanks for the input guys. Hit the pick and pull this morning and found a pulley off a V6 Toyota that will fit the smaller Denso alt. Traded the Denso alt I got off a Corolla for one from a 90 Celica that has the power lug coming straight out the back rather than from the side (the old one looked like it would short the power lug to the frame rails when the engine torques). Also grabed an alternator off a 3.1L Olds that looks to be an inch smaller in every dimension than the F body LS alt. Has some odd brackets, but looked to be brand new. I now have 4 alternators. One of them is going to fit. I like your Honda bracket, but I am not quite ready to go to an electric water pump. I am pretty sure I can get one of these alts to hang to the side of the driver's side head. Absolute worst case I switch to F body accesories which will allow me to mount the stock alternator up high where the tensioner is. Fitting this alt by trial and error is getting expensive. Don't want to hear any more smack about how expensive the JCI kit is.

This whole site is excellent http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/broken-bolts.shtml

That looks good. Are you running an HEI dist? From reading the parts catalogs they make offset 14" cleaners that they say are needed to clear the HEI dist. Guess you had no problems? I have my engine so far back a 14" is going to hit the hood latch, and the engine is so tall I think I need a drop base also. I have yet to find a unit that are both drop base and forward offset.

I need to get a smaller alternator for my LS motor to clear my steering shaft. I got two Nippon Denso alternators at the JY. The one from a Honda has the proper pulley and probably can be made to fit. The second one from an old Corolla is smaller, but has a 5 rib pulley and a smaller shaft than the the Honda unit (so no pulley swap). I notice Jegs sells East Coast electric super mini alternators, but they all have V groove pulleys. They also look a lot like the smaller of the two Nippon Denso units I already have. So does anyone know of a small alternator with 6 rib pulley? Or does anyone have a source on a 6 rib pulley that will fit on a Denso alt with a 15 mm diameter shaft ? How about a good source with the measurements of different alternators? I have the engine about where I want it, but don't want to do the final weld up of the motor mounts until I get an alternator solution.

Any one know if wide bands can be read with a multimeter? I have 2 widebands I pulled out of the wife's minivan when the heaters went out. The sensors still work, just open circuit heaters throwing error codes. I was thinking of installing an O2 just to help with tuning the carb. At $250 each I figured I might as well use the wide bands since I have them. I know the service manual says a dedicated "air fuel ratio sensor" tool must be used to trouble shoot them.

How old are your stock springs? Reason I ask if the springs are old, you may already be riding lower than stock. New lowering springs could actually raise your ride height. Having said that, MSA sells some springs that are suppose to lower your car an inch and a half http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC01A

I think the solution here is for some of us Hybridz members to stop by on a regular basis and drive your vettes for you. It is the least we can do for a bud. Nuclear powered submarines have huge batteries they use for emergency power when underwater. They told me it was just an oversided Die Hard. They had very strict maintenance procedures that had to be followed to maintain the battery life. Trickle charges alone will not do it. I don't remember all the details but the written procedures called for regular cycles of slow and fast charging and discharging. Makes me think a computerized battery minder would be just the ticket. BTW, the batteries I put in my Z when in storage all completely died and could never be recharged with a year of no use. They were completely disconnected at the time. Let me know what unit you buy and I will get one of the same.

Damn. Is that rear wheel HP or has is somehow been corrected to guestimate flywheel HP? What mods are on that LS2? You are doing way better than stock.

$159???