Pop N Wood

Hmmm. Mad Dog. Mad Dog 20-20. Lost a few brain cells to that stuff.

You wrote a lot of words, so let me see if I am reading this correctly. The pedal is firm with the engine off, but gets spongy when running? Reaction disk. Classic symptom. BTW, with stainless brake lines the pedal should move freely until the MC starts to engage, then it should be like stepping on a brick.

The nut on the top of the strut shaft caused thumping sound on my Z for years. Make sure the shaft isn't turning with the nut either. First things first, grab a torque wrench and torque every bolt in the rear end.

Damn. That is slower than a Prius...

They say the sound of a 12 guage being pumped is the universal language everybody understands. Not to get to preachy, but it is not a good idea to pull a gun unless you are fully ready to use it.

You forgot the hotmail address, too.

Awsome find. Can't believe you paid $2500 either. That is in better condition than mine. Funny thing. I use to live in Redondo Beach, now I live in Maryland and I drive a dec 70 240Z that is registered as a 71.

You are asking a pretty basic question. Try reading this, especially item #2 http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=58&a=2

Yellowpages under steel or structural steel. Some places don't like selling to the general pubic so you may have to call a few. Others will only sell sheet metal in whole (4x8) pieces. You can also yellowpage scrap metal yards. The selection is hit or miss, but they sell it by the pound so you can really get some great deals. Even load up the scraps from the shop and basically trade it pound for pound. I got lucky and found a metal working shop near my work that sells stainless and aluminum to the general public. They have a metal forming shop on site and sell scraps by the pound. I stop by on a regular basis and look for deals. They often have huge cubes of solid stainless or aluminum.

Can't let the heat slow me down. I may take more frequent breaks but for the most part I just sweat it out.

My kids are too young to require any serious auto work. However, my neighbors call me "Home Depot" because they come to me whenever they need anything special done. Things like replacing a water heater, fixing their house wiring or especially to borrow tools, nuts and bolts. It has gotten to the point where neighbors of our neighbors friends will come by to get boards ripped or routed. And of course all the neighbor kids known I am happy to fill their bike tires. Funny thing is I absolutely hate asking other people for help.

I was just looking into hooking up an LS1 alternator. A Speartech guy regularly posts over on LS1TECH.com says the sensing wire must have an indicator bulb or a 500 ohm resistor wired into the line. Running a straight 12 wire to the alternator sensing line will greatly shorten the life of the alternator. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40815 Don't know if the LT1 alternator is the same as the LSx, but couldn't hurt to do the above. You could even tap the sensing wire into the ground of the alternator idiot light. That would give you the needed resistance and a working idiot light.

Any way to change the default settings in the FAQ section so posts more than 2 weeks old are visibile? Threads in the FAQ section should stay up forever. Not everyone will think to scroll to the bottom of the page and select a different time out date on threads to display

Damn! Such a good idea I decided to do the same Got two $8.99 keychain laser pointers at PETCO in the cat toy aisle. Ground off the key chain mount, drilled and tapped a hole then mounted to a flat piece of scrap. Three button sized magnets, put the thing on the drill press table and shimmed the pointers until spinning the table scribed a single dot on the ceiling. Only thing left to do is use a small clamp to hold them on. These and a box of cigars will greatly simplify setting up the motor mounts.

People have been making biodesiel and ethonol out of farm waste for years. Many new landfills have vents to extract methane from the rotting garbage. Recycling trash is nothing new. I wouldn't get too excited just yet. The problem is in the numbers. The world uses a LOT of fuel. The big question is can they make enough of this cheaply enough to make a difference.

Any reason why you didn't just get a T56 from a 93-97 LT1 car? Should have bolted up directly. Drilling a hole in the back of the crank does not sound like fun to me. I thought the LS T56's had shorter input shafts than the LT variants? Seems like that would make the shaft come up short of the crank and not the other way around. I must be missing something. What you say about the bellhousing bolt holes is true. They only differ by one mounting bolt.

You need to worry about getting water in the oil and oil in the water.

Go to the jags that run site and order their manual. It will tell you everything you need to know. https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Datsun_Order.html

Might try the WWII stuff (Marston matting) http://www.calumetindustries.com/lmats.html

Thanks!!

To me it looks like it should fold into a robot or something.

The JTR site has detailed pictures and measurements of the 3 different type of adapter flanges they sell. Using a ruler and their web site you should easily be able to order the correct flange for your diff from them. Then all you need to do is source a used drive shaft from a chevy that had your transmission and take the two pieces to a drive shaft shop for shortening and balancing. To piggy back on this thread, does anyone know any part numbers for hooking the 1310 Ujoints on the JTR flanges to a shaft using 1330 joints? The chevy dealer could not find the part number listed on the JTR site.