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Sure, it's moving weight forward a bit. But, there are plenty of quick Audis and Scoobies that would say that isn't the end of the world, particularly with AWD. In fact, most quick AWD cars are pretty heavily front biased from what I can remember. I know the audi S cars, the STI and the Evo are, and in my experience they handle pretty well. Updates!

Wow, I really like what you're doing here. I gotta say I've never seen anyone on here do the wood pressing method for making a manifold, but it's VERY cool. Also, it seems like it would be reasonably repeatable, as the wood molds are are saved. Great work!

Big thanks to CGSHEEN who took a look at the car for us! He gave a detailed (and very positive) review and it looks like we're going to get it. I was actually wondering how those who have bought cars from far away have done the transaction. I was thinking either a certified check or paypal for some percentage of the sale price and the seller could mail the signed title to us. Once the title was transferred and the paperwork was in order, I could paypal/certified check the difference once the car was released to the shipper. Does this sound about right? Does anyone have preferred shippers? Any other suggestions? Thanks again to the best forum in the world.

Yeah, that's why I'm willing to ship. I usually don't buy sight unseen, but as long as this thing actually exists and doesn't have any big secrets I think we'll pull the trigger.

Here's the deal. My girlfriend and her mother are trying to get her father the car he had in his 20's, a Triumph GT6. The problem is that these are fairly rare in the US, and finding a reasonably clean or rust free one is pretty difficult. I have found what appears to be a decent one for about the right price in Tuscon, AZ. I know most of you aren't Triumph experts, but we're all pretty knowledgeable car guys here and everyone knows what a poor rust repair looks like and would feel any glaring mechanical issues on a drive around the block. Would anyone on here be willing to help my girlfriend and I out by looking at a car for us. We'd be more than happy to cover gas/time/beer. I've attached a pic of the car in question for reference. Thanks in advance! -Will

If that's the case I'd just cut/bend some new sheetmetal to replace the offending area. It's pretty rare that anyone replaces an entire floorpan without doing the rail at the same time. If one is rusty, the other usually is as well.

I'd imagine these guys might fit the bill. http://www.rodendsupply.com/

Oh you CAN drive it, but this kinda stuff just seems silly to me. www.youtube.com/watch?v=MX9LgeBf58U www.youtube.com/watch?v=MX9LgeBf58U

I'm torn on this. On the one hand it's nice to see the S30 getting some respect. But I'm not a particular fan of THIS one. While I can appreciate a rough, work-in-progress street car (see below) I tend to appreciate them for their functionality, much of which has been negated in this car by the ride height, or lack thereof. Maybe Cali roads are made of glass, but that car would be stuck high-centered in the middle of the road in NYC. Also, I worry about the popularity of these sort of cars driving up the prices of our cars. I never looked at Z's as an investment, and love the fact that replacement parts are relatively plentiful and inexpensive, and I hope that doesn't go the way of the AE86 or 240sx. That said, I'm only 24 so complaining about "those danged kids" buying up Z's is a little silly for me to do. Ultimately, the guy clearly loves and uses his car, and I'm sure there are alot of guys who would say the same about me doing a resto-mod with an early Series I car, so who am I to judge.

Either way, sweet car with a ton of potential for more power. Get a bigger intercooler and turbo and turn up the boost! New trannies aren't too hard to come by...

That thing is awesome. I really want one. All blacked out like that it looks like a cross between and e30 M3 and a Grand national. How much power are you making with that, I bet that's a fun ride.

Did anyone else see the pics on the page below where someone was removing the body from the frame of a 2000gt in the middle of the road! http://www.studiotimecapsule.com/car_guys_around_you

Wow, I didn't realize how far forward that was going to be. Looks like that's gonna be a loooong driveshaft, haha. Great progress. About the radiator situation, I think in my ideal situation I would do two small (possibly motorcycle) rads close to parallel with the frame rails on either side of the trans. I don't know if radiators that size/shape are easily sourced, but it certainly would be cool.

I gotta say that I'm impressed you went from "I'm thinking about doing this" to having the rails and suspension welded in about a week. Keep at it!

That was quick! From what I can tell you're welding the engine bay frame section into the Z. Seems like a pretty simple way to do it. Are you finding that the strut tops are gonna be a similar distance/angle from the suspension pickups in the Z or will you have adjust it? It also looks like getting the steering shaft to the rack once the engine is in might be tricky. Good work!

I did pretty much exactly the same thing as Sunny

If you're on the east coast and need one, I've got one as well.

Yeah, I can only see the first as well.

I found that removing it was alot more difficult than re-installing it. I pretty much just hooked the front edge then tapped it on with my palm and moved toward the rear of the car. Granted, my car is still in primer so I wasn't worried about scratching the paint under the rail.

Down to $800 already! hehe

I trolled craigslist for a while and found this little mini mill for a few hundred bucks. I'd imagine you could pick up a nice used old one.

There's already a pretty lengthy thread on this. [Edit] Saw you posted in it so you clearly have read it, haha.

The difficulty is definitely in the mold. I'd practice with some smaller parts before trying to do a fender. Even small parts can be pretty difficult to pull a mold from. It will be particularly difficult to pull a piece with all the returns for mounting, ie the areas where you bolt the fender to car. $3k is a bit high. JohnC offers proper full CF hoods for ~$1k with the inner frame and clearcoat.

Those wouldn't be for sale, would they?

I used EZ-Cool. Lightweight, easy to install and the price was right. http://www.lobucrod.com/