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Someone made it onto Speedhunters! http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/12/building-the-ultimate-grip-n-drift-datsun/

Ok, quick update with some L engine questions. I've been driving the car around it's been great, even took it to Lime Rock in April. The problem is now clive has built an engine for his 260z and Jason's 240 has an L28+triples, so now I'm the slow car with my lowly l24+su's I've been collecting parts for a mild, budget L28 build. So far I've cleaned up a set of triple 40's I also picked up an E31 head and was planning to run it on an L28 flat top block, but after doing a bit more research, it seems that would give me a bit too much compression for the 93 octane we can get here. Now I'm mulling my options and was hoping for input. This engine isn't meant to be an all out build and I will likely be doing another swap in a year or two, so I'm trying to keep the budget reasonable. I know that this subject has been beaten to death, but I was hoping for input based on the parts I already have/would have to buy and the price of machine work nowadays. I have a stock E31 head, I was figuring on buying a healthy cam as well. I also have a running L24 with modified E88, but I don't know exactly what was done, I'm fairly sure it has a mild cam in it though I don't have my L28 block yet, but I'm sure I could find either a flat top or dished block for about the same price From what I understand the E31/flat top combination would be a bit high for pump gas unless I pulled a ton of timing. I've looked into the cost of installing the larger valves in my area and it would likely bump this combo out of the range of what I'm trying to spend. I could likely run it on a dished L28 block, but would I be giving up too much compression to make it worth while? I could run my existing unknown E88, though I'd still have small valves (I think, haven't pulled the head yet). Compression would likely be more streetable with the flat top block. Depending on how it feels I might be able to get away without buying a cam. I could also sell the E31 and pick up a later head, possibly a N42 These would benefit from the larger valves, and could probably get away with the flat top pistons on pump gas. Any thoughts on these options and what would make the most sense given the budget nature of the build and the parts I'm already sitting on.

Yeah, I drove it around the block yesterday and can say it's pretty quick. I was short shifting it at what I would guess was 4000rpm, but it still was pulling pretty darn hard.

Beautiful build. I too would love to hear that thing with the ITB's!

Dave got the car back from the exhaust shop in about two weeks. I couldn't tell you the cost though. Unfortunately, less than a week after he got the car back it was flooded in hurricane Sandy. He is assessing the damage, but the car was under sea water up to the bottom of the dashboard. Luckily it was on jackstands or it could have been much worse. From what I understand no water got in the engine or to the electronics and the power steering still works. I know he's turned the engine over and it seems to be fine. That said, the entire interior has to come out and most of the sensitive areas of the chassis have been submerged in seawater...

Only lost power at my mom's place in Newark. The damage throughout the area is insane though. Lower manhattan is a ghost town.

I find that the google search algorithms are a bit better at weeding through only tangentially related topics. Just go to your google search and type site:forums.hybridz.org then whatever you're searching for. The results tend to be better.

I had never heard of these so I did a quick google search after reading this thread. I guess these things are rare, a guy in This classic z thread sold one for $1100 on ebay. Crazy... Great find. Every time I think I know a lot about these cars I find something new.

I've been wondering about this recently. I'm rebuilding a set of 40's right now. The first carb I took apart didn't have the internal return spring, and the second had a broken one binding the movement of the throttle plates. From what I've read online, these breaking and binding things up is not an uncommon problem. Should I bother installing internal springs or go to a pure external setup?

Found myself browsing the "MotoExotica" Ebay seller linked above and noticed this thing. Now obviously this thing isn't going to be most people's taste, but something in there caught my eye. Something funky is going on with the rear suspension here. I've never seen someone add a shock mount to the LCA. though it looks like it could be an airbag. Interesting none the less.

Your point being? haha.

Are you impressed enough to have another box from Magnusson on it's way to your house? hehe

A birdie told me that this thing is spinning these meats up on a 3rd gear roll. Craziness.

Nah, standard Z aftermarket airdam just blended in.

That is unreal! Looking great Mark. You're really getting down to it.

I used a slightly different technique because I was lazy and didn't have dry ice handy. I did have canned air lying around, so I held the can upside down, and sprayed the insulation with the cold propellant. I only did a small area at a time, but it did a very good job of making it brittle enough to come up with some light persuasion.

That thing is gonna be a BEAST!

Yes. As has been stated here a few times, with an exhaust the length of the tubing is only a minor factor in the sound it produces. Mufflers are often shaped to create resonances that interfere with the frequencies introduced to the muffler by the engine itself, cancelling out the sound.

Nice buy Mike, I love my Miata and can see how they might 'reproduce' when left in a garage. Joe, If you get a Miata, you have to do this

That link you posted has a good explanation of the harmonics.

I think the issue here is that just pushing air through a tube does not create a frequency. You have to introduce vibration either by a reed valve, the block and fipple of a recorder, or the similar thing on an organ(though I don't know what that's called) And the frequency of the vibration isn't really related to the cfm through the tube, but the length of the air column. The CFM can have an effect on the amplitude, but not the frequency (until you get to weird things that happen with reed valves, like overblowing). With cars, the pitch of an exhaust note is related to the RPM, not the CFM pushing through. Even in exhaust systems where there is funky harmonic tuning going on(the Infiniti cars come to mind) it's independent of CFM because it occurs at all throttle openings(all VE values). Don't forget that you are introducing a frequency to the pipe with the pulses of the various cylinders into the exhaust. This is what most 'tuned' exhausts tune to. Another issue is that there is an 'effective' frequency because those pulses, in many engines, aren't evenly spaced, and even if they are they don't necessarily travel the same distance in the header before merging in the collector. This can make tuning the exhaust particularly difficult, because you're not tuning to a 'clean' frequency. The effective frequency is sort of an average that your mind perceives when you hear it because some pulses are closer than others, which is why flat crank v8's sound higher than most.

Sounds sick with the ITB's!

There seem to be a few things here that, while similar, are not really talking about the same thing. Open tube resonance has little to do with the material that the pipe is made of. It is really just talking about the interaction of the air with the pipe and when there will be a complete wave at the ends of the pipe, but is not dependent on the pipe's composition. There will be a resonant frequency at every integer value because a 'complete' wave will be at both ends of the pipe when that frequency is introduced to the pipe. A separate question is the natural frequency of a pipe, but here we are talking about the pipe itself. All objects will vibrate at a particular frequency when struck. There are ways to sort of predict this for common shapes, but there are two ways to measure it directly. One is to strike the tube and measure it with a speaker/software (pretty easy to do with a computer nowadays) and another is to use a more advanced program to play frequencies at the tube and measure the volume of what comes back. There will be a spike in amplitude at the resonant frequency. Now for musical instruments the resonant frequency of the air is of main importance. That's why most instruments use openings in the vibrating column of air to manipulate the effective length of the pipe. The natural frequency of the pipe itself is often important for getting a certain tone. Instruments that play a single note (like an organ pipe for example) will exploit this. What is the end goal of what you're trying to do here?

I've got a similar setup except I kept the stock tophats and TC rods and I'm running 16's with a bit more sidewall. I find the ride to be very decent, at least on the softer strut settings. I stayed away from camber plates because after riding in a friends car before and after them the added NVH was very noticeable with no other changes. I suspect my sidewall makes a big difference as well.

Those look like the Y-spoke wheels on the V10 model which is closer to 200k