tyler031734

Thats really all Id like to gain. I have a few heads on the shelf. I should do a little research on which cam would be the biggest. Still want to be internally oiled though.

I know its not a turbo cam. I have done some more reading and it seams like this cam is to big for what I want to do. I like having an engine making more boost down low. Ill probably put this cam up for sale. low hours and all. Thanks Pyro.

what kind of car?

Why not just flip it over and run a cable? I did that with mine. Used a bicycle gear shift cable and a 15 cent crimp from the hardware store. Amazingly it worked great right from the get go. I expected to have to fiddle with it to make it work right from idle to WOT but it worked first shot!

Quote from six_shooter: the PCV valve is really quite important to the proper operation and logevity of an engine. A proper system will will crankcase fumes into the engine to be burned off, clearing damaging fumes. These fumes acn deteriorate the gaskets, and leave excess pressure in the crank case, without the PCV system connected. At higher RPM, the PCV system will, when connected properly create a small vacuum, or at the very least less pressure in the crank case, allowing the pistons to move down the bores easier, helping create more power than without the PCV system connected.

I have a stock L28ET, will be 370cc injectors and msII running a mandrel down pipe and IC. Im concerned about valve overlap on a turbo engine possibly a bad thing, among other things. Is the cam possibly to big for my nice DD 240z? I think it maybe a good choice being as the operating range of the cam is low RPMs. I have little knowledge on cam dynamics and as for why this cam? Because its sitting on the shelf. any help would be appreciated

Oh man, those are sweet!

it looked rather clean and the bolts came out with out much issue. Not much remains in the oil drain tube as well. The bearings are so shot the compressor wheel touches the housing. Anyone reading this have a T4 cold side they would sell?

Sorry, couldn't stop myself....

I bought a water cooled Turbo off a member here. I opened it up to do some porting before I ordered a rebuild kit and I found whats in the picture. I know these crack quiet often and its usually not a big thing, but this one is so huge im not sure this is "standard stuff" i've heard about. Can I get some .02? the crack's span all the way to the markes I scribed with a screw I had close by. I thought about welding it but these are cast iron arn't they? There for not able to use my wire feed. Thanks

Why would the "mech" loosen all the rockers??? Most SBC's are hydrolic. Tighten all your rockers to have zero play at the push rod at TDC, run the engine. loosen the nut until it starts clicking (while running) tighten to zero lash, (clicking stops) then one half turn past. DONE The engine will stumble a bit when adjusting. If this doesn't work there solid lifters.

That lug adapter is huge! I have the Toyota 4 piston swap and my spacer is just over a half an inch. how do you mount your caliper? is there an adapter for that as well?

Yep, ebay has a ton of kits. Although I did check with the seller on the kit I bought and got the wrong seal for the cold side. buying one seprate cost half as much as the kit itself!!! if you can, take your turbo apart before buying and triple check that sucker!

This maybe a stupid, useless question, But did you loosen the nut on the front of the pulley?

This maybe a stupid, useless question, But did you loosen the nut on the front of the pulley?

It may work better to put a description of the car you need parts for in your headline. As this is not a corvette sight.

good to know

I must bow out. I pictured the rings much closer than on the L28 piston I just checked out. These measured at over 7.5mm under the top. Cut the 2MM off the top of a stock cast piston and gap the top ring a hair further id say. Assuming the KA24's are like the L28 pistons

Double post...

They must be a really low quality stainless. The P90 valves I had on the shelf snapped to my magnet as fast as I have ever seen any mild steel or chromoly. My .02

Hey Tony, I thought a thicker head gasket would result in a bigger "weak link" in the chain? Also isn't there an issue with the top piston ring coming up to high in the bore? Ive never had a KA piston in hand but isn't 2mm pretty close to the top ring? Thanks for the knowledge.

Thanks to caliburito for the thread hook up. I found I have 2 oil pumps not listed there. Now Id like to disassemble them and ad to the useful thread.

How many E88 heads do you think look like this one? lol. Yes it is. As you can see by the date stamp. This was started when I thought I wanted to use it, but decided to use a p90 I have instead.

Well when I got it, it still had the head gasket mated to it and sitting next to the short block. Looked to be a runner. My question always was what intake was he using??? My knowledge is that is the weak spot in the Z motor. If you don't count detonation! I could have swore my but dyno noticed a difference in normal putt putt driving around in just shaving of the bumps for the injector bolts in the runners! And Black240, Ive been selling parts for the last few years. Some stuff sits on the shelf for years! One day someone calls and has to have it now!!! Key is patents and the right price of course.

The high overdrive 5 speed with 120k on it the low over drive with 210k on it and the master is for sale and maybe the driveline. Pm me if your interested. we can set something up.