tyler031734

I got this idea after reading and conversing with a few of the engineer types on this forum. Reading that the runners are the most restrictive part in the engine. I've measured the stock intake at 1.25", the valve is 1.55", the new intake measures 1.45" where it bolts to the head, matching a lot closer to the valve then a stick intake ever could. As for the injector positioning, I think it could be enough of a difference to mess with a stock ECU especially being batch fired, but mega squirt has options for adjusting to this type and I assume the other aftermarket FI can compensate as well. (Xtau factor) The runners are 4.5mm bigger then the stock intake. I have a ported P90 I've been holding onto for awhile and it's pretty close to the runners on the new intake. I'm swaping a VH45DE into my Z and no longer own an L, otherwise I would have bolted this up and tested out myself on the stock fuel injection. The L intakes get hotter then shit in these cars and with the 3% of evaporating chemicals they put in fuel these days, I wonder if fuel puddling would really be an issue.

The runners on this intake are a little larger and much longer. I added the flange for the throttle body. Custom fuel rail on the "adapter plate". I don't have an L in my Z anymore, so I can't bolt it up and try it out. I'd like to produce and sell these as a custom option. This being the prototype

Although I always install my temp sensor in the intake manifold itself. If you have an aftermarket intake, you will have the option too. It gets the temp sender away from all the header heat. Here's a pic of my old 1978 with a 400ci small block I installed. I bought the car with the original inline 6 that threw a rod.

Here

Try my route. Local and under $5. The datsun thread pitch is very very close to standard NPT My JTR V8swap book even tells you to do it that way.

That's just a pipe thread adapter. Bring both sensors into a hardware or auto parts store and they can find the needed reducer if your not familiar with NPT

There's three different input flanges for an R200 That I can think of right off the top of my head. Two different styles of outputs too. Lots of things changed over that diffs production. Which ones you need?

why not buy an "all thread Union." It's like a nut but much longer. maybe an inch, but it's threaded on the inside so you can put your pushrods end to end. Anyone have a proper name for it? I'm sure one can be ordered on McMasters.com. Requires cutting of pushrods and a little grinding, but fun stuff. I changed to a Wilwood master and welded two together.

That's how the car came from the factory...

I have one down here in Gresham. Come check it out and see if you want it. 8 of 10. Should clean up nice. $50 Assuming Vancouver is in Washington your 30 mins from me. Shoot me a pm. I can give you pics and my number.

240z's never had a factory rear sway bar. I don't think they even got attachment brackets until 1973. If you search google for install on a series one 240z you will find a few options.

No need to yell, he who's name can't be pronounced. As I see your giant intake plenum I think I won't have any issues. I'll just angle the throttle body downward. Thanks for the useful pic.

So what your telling me is the diesel intake barely fits between the hood already. I'm measuring from the flat area which is almost 1/2" shorter than the front of the cam cover, But not the 1" to 1 1/2" I was hoping for. Hmm. Than I will modify these intakes the hard way... Still hoping to find a local with a longblock in a Z I could mess with. I find useing small cardboard boxes is a decent way of finding clearance issues. I got a 3" air filter on my sbc swaped 78 that way.

I have a p90. I didn't read the other thread. I'm doing something a bit different. I'm wondering how much clearance there is between the intake and hood for my application.

I have a few diesel intakes sitting around. I'm thinking about modifying them for use on gas type engines. With there longer and bigger runners. But my issue is I dont have a Z around with a L6 in it for me to mess around with testing clearances. My question is, How much can I raise the "log" portion of the intake? Is there a Z with a long block in it I can mess with around Portland OR? I'm located really close to Gresham. Thanks for any help

What your describing in part sounds like the resistor that cut your 12v down to 6v for there 6v electronic ignition. 75-78 280z Check to see if someone put the better 280zx distributor on there. That would remove the resistor.

You wouldn't want a set of Atsugi dome tops 1mm over? Really cheap and I'm off 162nd and division in SE.

I think the 240sx clutches work with these engines. I just bought a complete set up with a chromoly flywheel for $200. I'd check ebay first.

I heard there was a honda fan that only takes an hour or so to modify/install. I hear it looks almost stock and on low, puts out more air than the stocker on high. Looking to do that one on my own car.

Does this cap hold down the dizzy shaft at all? Or is it just a sealing component? Just wondering about making a few. I have a timing cover. But not a complete L6. I'm looking for parts to make. Practicing using a mill I just bought and a lathe I've had about 2 years now.

Is there a rule that states you need stock stuff? Fiberglass buckets only came on 70-72 240z's and the steel 73-78 ones are much lighter.

Any interest in a 130mph gauge?

So not to thread jack but... I have personally used the gm hei swap on a NA distributor. But being as Nissan went to a different style igniter for the turbos, wouldn't that mean Something is different about the way they work? Resistance or something. I've never seen a turbo setup using an hei module. It would be interesting to see one with a lot of miles on it to see if it would work.

I have a pair in brown I'd like to sell. Pm me if your interested. These are 83 only.

Turbo center caps are 81, and 82-83 I have three 82-83's Also a turbo emblem for the center console as well Pm me if your interested. Also do you know the t tops, door and hatch glass are different for coupe and 2+2? You state "or" so that makes me wonder and had to check.