tyler031734

I've been looking at options to reverse cool my L6 ever since reading about its benefits in Gm engines. External pumps are spendy and cluttered looking to me. But! why couldn't I reverse the direction of the blades on my current pump? Ive got the welder I would have to relocate my Tstat, But I already have quick ideas for that. If it doesn't over heat I guess it would be pumping enough water right? haha. yet another reason to buy one of them late thermometers.

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/2185705543.html

You have a PM

inZane 240, Nice tunes man... I like how LED's are more of an instant on than the old bulbs, if you see a semi with one light replaced with an LED light you can REALLY see a difference. I load trucks so I see em all the time, there is a big delay with one lighting up a few milliseconds later. from a distance at 4am its confusing too... haha Wasn't there a list of all the replacement LED's? I can never find what im searching for on here so ill leave it to someone else.

Im using a 2" to 2.5" 90* elbow right off the stock t3. 2.5" all the way to the 60mm TB. I figured it would be the smoothest way to transition from the two sizes and 2.5" inlet/outlet inter coolers are plentiful. used an ebay kit and had left over parts but I didn't go under the motor or anything fancy. My cold side is rather long as it comes from the passenger side fresh air hole in the core support, I dont like the idea of adding more bends and trading cooler air for less efficiency. One of the reasons I went bar and plate for the IC.

I would like to add a bit-o-knowledge to this. 1983 cars say 24*btdc as there hydrolic lifter cam is 4* more restarted than there 81-82 solid lifter cams, thus the different settings. 20* for 81-82 ans 24* for 83 or so I have been told side note, currently I have mine set to 18* with my 83 motor and still having knocking issues at full boost (10psi) lost a little torque low down, but im going to MSII soon so custom settings to the rescue! Could be the mandrel bent DP, intercooler, slightly ported 75 intake or 60mm TB causing the ECU to be running not so well. Any one in the Portland area want to lend a hand? total newb to MS here... to hand the thread back, Im sure the z31 wiring plugs will help, I see on average a Z a month on roads but rarely get to chat it up with people knowledgeable about there z's, I just feel lonely lol

Im very curios as to why your going with a VLSD witch from what Im told will only transfer 20% of torque from one wheel to the other. Please correct me if im wrong. for the price your spending (spent by now Im sure) could have gone Quafe with the Z31 option

Just like the title said, I'm upgrading to something programmable! I have paypal or cash for a local buy. Must be a working unit!!! Duh... Using on my 83T

I think you my have some info switched around regarding the l28 and l28et ring thickness, I always thought the turbo rings where the thicker ones... Am I wrong? Bravo on the work though. Currently Im trying to find a way to make my l28et into a ~2.9 with a better rod stroke ratio just for the sake of being different! plus a little machining on some flat tops to add some new age knowledge of spark events. this should be fun! Anyone have any info on what a shorter piston will act? Like will it fight my gains from a better rod/crank ratio? trying to find a good combo of longer rod and a shorter 87mm piston

you should do a little research on the T5's. WC t5 dint come out until 87 I believe. theirs always rumors they hold more power but the just have a bearing 1st and second instead of a bushing type. you can use a ford rebuild kit to rebuild your box... IDK if you can get a ford WC kit to work in your trans though. Are you in Milwaukee Oregon? there's a guy in Beaver creek with one but hes a giant lazy over priced ****** in my opinion.

I bought one from ledfoot racing on Ebay and love it. It looks "Kinda" like a 240z rad and I used the extra mounting tabs to mount a bracket for two 10" fans instead of the plastic through the rad style zips. Good amount of room too even with the 2.5" inter cooler tubing and its a huge 3 row as well. I wondered if it was going to fit when I pulled it out of the box... Even said Champion on the cap! I think the design looks a lot better and the guy swapped mine out when the first one was not the prettiest. It amazes me when Ebayers do what I think they should!

Ive been working on this 73 for a few years now. In its newest form its powered by a 83 hydro lifter head l28et. Ever since it was first installed it had a strange cut in the high rpm high boost area like a Total fuel cut, I figured I was to high of an RPM and just stayed away from it. Tack doesn't work so its by ear, anyways onward... I have a MSA down pipe to 2.5 crappy "turbo" reverse flow muffler, 75 intake, 2.5" IC piping and recently a Intercooler... with just piping and BOV (for drivable mock up)works great. Ran a little lean bone cold but as expected with stock ECU. BUT when the IC was put in it acts lean very easily now. I even bought a FPR with gauge and bumped FP From 32PSI right? to 40PSI. Seamed better but Its still not good. This set up ran 9 of 10 before the IC, now Its down to a 5. Isn't anyone else running an IC on the stock ECU? MSnS is in the future, its just so hard to let go of all that cash as I need one assembled... Any help is appreciated. Oh can I hook the old 83 tack wire directly to my 73 tack?

Really?? I used 2.5" universal kit off Ebay and routed it through the holes for the cab vent, then used a custom piece of sheet metal sandwiched between the radiator and core support. Bent outward to the wheel well and relief cut for IC tubing, then sealed it up with rubber tubing around the border of the new sheet metal. Intake for the cab is the other little holes in the core support. I figure it not only helps more air go through the radiator and a big plus for me, No cutting my car!! Just a tip for future readers

Well I have gone to far from factory specs with my l28ET and its time to go MS. I'm looking for a unit already installed using the original turbo dizzy + wiring harness. Im looking for ease of installation as this is a first for me.

First gear under a no load situation, I would say wouldn't be damaging to get this a little wrong with experimentation. Some times you have to quit asking, suck it up... and jump. If you asked about under full boost hesitation id be more hesitant, But what you describe is just for you anyways right? When do you ever see yourself in that driving situation?

WOW stuff like that seams strange to me, my friend paid Jackson and Hewit half his tax refund so he could walk out the door with it, instead of just waiting the week its always taken to get there. Seems awfully wasteful

If there any cheaper than the MM brackets id be interested in sharing the cost for a second set. Im dreading trying to swap disc and drums from two cars and stubs from two cars and beading two cars, so on

I did the HEI set up with no issues... no stumbling. Chevy used HEI 74-87. I doubt it would have been used so long if it didn't like over 4500rpm. also GM previous years has proven to have cheap replacement parts, the higher dollar modules ~$40 are made of better materials. 160 bucks less to fix my car?? oh yeah! I got a bad module from a junkyard dizzy, nothing pisses you off more than random no spark... replaced with HEI used on 2.4 with rv cam, header. while learning to go fast without beating my car up it seen many an RPM... no miss also used with blaster 2 coil. I liked it. still have it in a box o crap. went turbo, than v8 .02

Ive been all over this 1976 V8 car since I got it two months ago. Little problems here and there are still around, but no low beams is to big to be little... Ive been from the fuse box to the headlights and to both switches on the column (high-low and on-off) all make my multimeter beep with continuity... Can I get 2 cents?

70-73 240z had 16mm front sway bars, 74 had 18mm front 20mm rear (weird) All 2+2's had 20mm front and rear IF you want to put a rear sway bar in a 240z only a 260 bar will fit, Its got an extra bend in the middle. Did it... 73 got a vapor tank, collapsible steering wheel and non flammable interior!! yay! and 240z also have 3 different choke nobbs sometime between 74 and 75 there was a change from a 45amp gauge + shunt as an all in one, to a 60amp gauge and big box in the engine bay

Yeah Ive seen my timing light ''wiggle'' from what I assume is the play gathered in all that machinery, But im not running anything TO THE MAX WHOOOO lol. just a nicely built 350. Its all on your personal goal... I like the sleeper. If i was going for maximum everything, trying to squeeze every horse and the dollar to make it go far. maybe knock that extra tenth off my quarter mile. I might worrie about it and deal with a whine...

I came across a magazine article a about two years ago with 5 different engines on dyno's testing crank HP between chains vs. gears. In all 5 there was (as they stated) a five percent decrease in hp running a gear set. These where all mid 400 to 500hp motors. So it would seem to me the only reason to run a gear over a chain is having a motor powerful enough to brake a recently new chain, or to lazy to change em every 100k... this was found doing research for a 72 Chev Cheyenne I was looking to buy with a built sbc and noisy gears that overwhelmed the headers 6'' of pipe to short cherry bombs out! (at idle) My theory is chains are more efficient, HP and probably MPG with everything said. Unless a chain isn't strong enough gears are a waste, besides im on the sleeper kind of things .02

I have a 75-76 tank I bought acid cleaned and sealed, car got hit... bought a v8 car, email me we can talk, im in Portland not to far away either whoops lol

I hope you got it Really Really Really Really cheap.....

not sure on the mounting but it does matter if its a T350 or a T400, cable tells the tranny to boost line pressure to grab harder, witch is needed for more power. and I think you might be talking about a vacuum modulator...? That tells the tranny when and how hard to shift. but all this is different on 350 400 or a 700r4. if you can find a gen2 700r4 that would me my choice (for an auto) which tranny do you have?