tyler031734

Alrighty. Thanks ekoms31. I did look at that picture before. Just didn't know what I was looking for yet. Turns out Xcessive is in my home town! But further reading I find out when using the Xcessive adapter, you have to grind off about .25" off the back of the crank shaft and possibly clearance the block. Hmm, I might go Mazworx and ask the guys in the tool and die room for a favor.

I haven't been able to find that picture or maybe I over looked it. Where might I find that photo? Are you using the NA bell housing or the TT one? Did you/will you send in your bell housing for machining? That's just to put the starter on the other side isn't it? Not to descriptive on the website. I've sourced the tranny parts I need. After I find that little information I think Ill have enough to stick it in there and figure the rest out. Just like my first time.

I was expecting something like that. I hate to cut sheet metal off my 73 so I modify parts whenever possible. 3 different drive trains and I only cut one hole so far. If I can get by without cutting sheet metal or inner frame rails for the exhaust, I will be happy.

I believe that is for coolant to run by the float bowls on the carbs. In my own opinion, it is not needed. I can't see your carbs, but when I ran SU's I only worried about the water through the cannon's to flow. Everything else I got rid of because of degradation.

I had no idea about the z33 tranny. Still think ill use the z32 as its got to be cheaper. Anyone have pointers on fitment in an S30? 70-78... I own a 73, not that it matters to much.

<blockquote class="ipsBlockquote" data-author="ekoms31" data-cid="1040509" data-time="1360324937"> <p>i was probably the first one. that was 1-2 years ago. they keep saying next season but it never happened, so i built my own which is not that hard. there are custom motor mount kits for the vh45, but you would need a welder. </p> <p> </p> <p>it would be cheaper buying a welder and tools, then buying a kit. </p> </blockquote> <p> </p> <p>I had to buy a welder a few years ago and couldn't do without it now. I seam to have trouble finding info on the swap. I think I know the needs to the Z32 tranny.</p> <p>I believe I can use the stock headers to make a set that fits my 240z. And I was told the blue 450ztt cut `1-2" off the front of the oil pan to clear the cross member, but I may clearance the cross member instead, not sure of what it will look like yet.</p> <p> </p> <p>Can someone give me a rundown of some of there swap? Or links to info on it? I haven't found any wiring help yet. I hear removal is a pain.</p> <p>Really I'm just concerned about getting it placed in there. Any points on placement vs fitment? or does it only fit in one place?</p> <p>more research now, less jacking (and swearing) later</p> <p> </p> <p>Im driving the Q45 right now. It had a miss when I bought it. I believe I worked out all the kinks and it runs well.</p> <p>This car is fast for a 4000lb marshmallow.</p> <p> </p> <p>Ekoms31: Where might I look at those options? </p> <p> </p> <p>When I search for S30 swaps all I find are s13/14. I see cool z32 chassy swaps and only pictures and video's of actual Z's</p>

I was thinking a set of custom headers would be needed. Just using the stockers and welding off of them. Not my first swap but more nervous on this one. Everyone does an inline 6 Turbo or a SBC. There is less to be found on the VH45DE. Please post any helpful info. Thanks though. Where did you find out the pan info on the blue 450z? Maybe I can dig some more info there.

Do you have a crappy 60mm TB? I'm looking for one to use for pattern purposes.

I like the color of the valve covers. How hard was it to brighten up the block and heads? The blue 450z everyone is familiar with shows some frame modification for exhaust I assume Are you having to do any of that? I have a Q45 and wanting to do this same swap. Is there enough room for a set of N/A headers without frame modification? How close is your oil pan to the crossmember? I believe I know whats needed for a Z32 5 speed, but I can't find much more info. Any words of wisdom? Time to ditch the turbo 6!

Anyone send an Email yet?

Bought a Q the other day.... Looking for Mazworks adapter plate, z32tt tranny, drive line, flywheel and starter. Whew.... On a side order I'm looking for z32 rear aluminum calipers and 94-95 Q45 injectors + rails. I have an R200 long nose 3.70 CLSD available for trade/sale if interested. $900

I just got through a few (unprofessional) emails with a representative of McKinney Motorsports about there kit. Here's a copy of the Email: "You are only the second one to contact us about the Z car vh45 swap….. we set priorities by the amount of swap kit we can sell…. Some time late spring or early summer…." So anyone who would like an all aluminum Nissan V8 in there ride, Email these people!

Thanks Tony. I don't have anyone around me who thinks into depth about such matters. Its nice to have someone to bounce thought of off. Ozconnection: What is that routed in your heater lines? Is that an oil cooler? Sweet ride.

I understand the better the fuel is mixed before the cylinder would be beneficial, but I thought the cooler you could keep the fuel, the more compression you can take. improving the mixture with the tighter squeeze and thus mileage, emissions and power. That was the reason for direct injection, straight to the cylinder. As the way new cars are going. Plus no fuel sticking to the walls to calculate for. Xtau factor in MS I believe. But that theory was given to me by the salesman. I know with my L. the intake gets too hot to touch after a little driving. Even before the turbo charger under there.

Who the hell screwed up compression? Stock comes in at 140psi ~7.3-1 Do a leak down test. Every time someone sold me a car with a "rebuilt" engine. It needed to be rebuilt. The 81T car I hauled home from the pickNpull yard had 150PSI!! on all 6. whoo hoo! rebuilt engine! lol I run mine at 10psi with inter cooler. Pulls good to 5500. stock injectors 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust. no fuel issues. Check your spark I would think. Hydro lifters get -24* btdc solid are -20* as long as your TPS is working and adjusted right. I call the TPS Idle position checkers, they dont check throttle position, only if your pedal is at idle position or not. For spark at idle and fuel cut on decel. after that id check sensors that affected spark. No funny noises or smells from rich to lean during the problem lean me twords spark issues. CHTS, Knock Sensor, so on so forth.

Im looking for the same info. Anyone have luck finding shims that work for the longnose R200?

Old thread I know... R200's did not get 12mm ring gear bolts till 85. Turbo or not. Not in 81 when Turbo's began in the 280zx. This 83 280zxT diff im working on has the 10mm bolts in it. Just wanted to straighten that out to anyone else coming across this looking for torque specs like me.

bump

Your 78 would have come with 3.54's

It keeps my nuts nice and chill on the ride home!

I found the same issue with the tiny gap. Mine was about a milimeter. I mixed up a bit of JB weld and filled the gap with a dab on my finger, matched the color of the gasket too. I did this with the TB installed on the intake, but you could fill the bump of the intake with JB weld while apart, let harden and sand level to the gasket surface. I think my next casting project will be a few TB's. Bolts are easy to supply as well. I can definatly beat $50

+2

that is a 74.5-76 grille. PM sent

I tried to PM you but your box must be full. 82-89? I think they changed from 10mm bolts to 12mm bolts on the ring gear in 85. Just an FYI

Many people have put 440cc's on the factory ECU's One guy ran 100psi to his factory injectors... Scary Just say you want MS cuz its a cool piece of bling instead of making excuses. lol When MS acts up will you then take that to a shop? You will pay them to learn about it and then they will stab in the dark. Perhaps the injector wiring was mixed up? These are batch fired. Some mechanics are great, some just spend your cash until you don't come back. Whether the problem was solved or not! As you may notice, I don't trust garage monkey's. I think a better question is what are your horsepower goals? Then you can figure out what injectors you may or may not need as well as a turbo and maybe a cam. I bought an aftermarket FPR off ebay and I run my factory injectors at 36lbs and my stock turbo at 12lbs. Lots of fun. Edit: I bet someone messed up the order of injector plugs on your wiring harness.