tyler031734

I ask $250 for them after I clean them. Sold every one I find. I see a ton of people goin "fuel cell! fuel cell! fuel cell! My question is why, unless your racing and they require one for the safety aspect.

Still looking. im leaning in the 175/200/225 area

I didn't know early 77's could have that tank. I will start looking, lol They can go for $250+++ I know where there's a clean one you could buy today for $400.... Good luck with your search. I find the more patient you can be, the cheaper it is. I've bought them for $50-$175 Id change the title of your ad as a lot more people could help if they knew it was a 75-early 77 tank.

You will have better luck posting the year of your car. 70-74 are different from 75-76 and 77-78

I own a 73'. Why not replace the bumper mounts to the old style, instead of buying a rare bumper?

Or you can buy a tubing flair kit and make your own custom lines as well, But you need a little patients for this one.

New symptom, car dies when you hook the tach up! Wont start with it hooked up either. Took the plastic cap off to check connections and they all look good.... hmm, more hunting. EDIT: Replaced coil. $25 not bad. Car runs when tach is hooked up now. Properly grounded the tack case. Coil is getting 13.5v with a temporary test wire and still low readings. Revving as high as I like at a standstill. only putting out enough current for 600rpm

I went out and tried to "adjust" both of those brass screws. It feels like a mounting screw and not an adjuster. I did find another 280z tach on my shelf and tried it as well. Same issue. Im thinking I my have an HEI problem. Should make my dad laugh. He said he's only replaced one his whole life and that was just to rule it out as an issue.

But that does brink up an interesting thought. Not that it pertains to my current issue. I read somewhere to turn one of the brass flat head knobs to adjust the tach to operate correctly and if the needle is jumpy to add a small resistor of about 15k ohms. but your method makes better sense. And 240z tachs will not work with EI as far as I know. That's why people gut 280z tachs to put in there 240z shells.

Yeah, I talked about that increase in post #3. Not sure where the 240z tach statement came from. I said '78 in the first post and in post #7 "stock 280z tach" And I believe you meant trick it into 6 cylinders...

I looked over those threads you posted. A bunch of useless info, but I did find something about the wire feeding the coil. Had to make sure I used a big enough wire. I have a 20 amp relay feeding it so no bottle neck there. I hooked the tach back up, and at about 3000 RPM it finally hits almost 1K on the tach. From what I have read. The resistors are only if your needle bounces around. Mines rock steady, just way way way to low. And GOTHALOSISM, you never stated what your problem was.

I never drove the #500's but the PO drove them for a half mile on the street. My guess was he was just throwing money at his car and said "wow, this drives like ****". I had a bucking problem with my L28ET after the 60MM TB. I ramped up the spring pressure on it and it went away. I had to push the clutch in to get my bucking to stop. A few of the forklifts have DBW throttles at work. They make my shins hurt from holding my foot up!

Stock 280z tack

That resistor from my understanding is to stop the jumping around the needle might do from time to time. From my understanding V8's require you to "turn your tack down" because your tack see's 33% more spark than its used to (per RPM) from the factory inline 6. Mine's low from the get go. Totally backwards to what I have read. That resistor is some 15K Ohm I believe, or I maybe getting the internal regulator swap mixed up, but either way I don't see a resistor helping my issue. Anyone?

The stock tack in my 78 was stuck at 1K from the PO. Then I did the SBC swap (6.6L) and the replacement tack I have barley moves off the bottom at idle and seams to be at least half of what it should be. I haven't mounted it in the dash yet. Just hooked it up standing over the engine bay. If I had the sporadic jumping around needle Id know what to do, but This has me a little confused.

Ive been told lizard skin adds microscopic ceramic balls to there coatings to add insulation properties and can be bought from a qualified paint supply. Add them to any paint you will add for an extra insulation layer, but use a face mask as if they get into your lungs, bad things could occur. Im sure in there fine powder form they are very light. Cover that with gold and then those ceramic tiles, your AC would frost your windows!!

Wow I thought $110 was a bit steep. Hopefully that price was for an aluminum drive line?

For the voltage regulator you could convert your 240z to a higher amp/internally regulated alternator. I use the 70A Turbo alt in my 73 you remove your regulator and install some sort of resistor. There's info somewhere on this site. its a cheap swap

Can you just bump your original ad instead of posting, yet another one? I've Pm'd you before. Get a composite one and paint it. a qualified shop would get one closer than one off a different 40 year old car.

Your also going to need the special dizzy shaft for that crank angle sensor type. I wouldn't get the throttle body. Waste of money for a 50mm. Just dont use a stock Jpipe. .02

Duh Thanks

Those bumper ends look like the stock bumper someone cut up and had re-chromed. I do like the look! kinda like a 70-73 Camaro split bumper. I just noticed the matching passenger side mirror! Where the hell did that come from? Oh and no front blinkers. lol

Considering how pricy the early turn signals are, I think I might adapt the body harness to fit the turn signals. Or if you don't care, go by some male/female plugs and hack em both up.

It can be replaced with anything newer than your year and still retain all DEQ items for what your replacing with, according to Cali DEQ law's FYI

I have 4 500lb springs that im not using... Id like to drive my 240z down some of the not so best roads in Portland without being shook apart. Looking for some nice street springs at a good price, or trade these 500's off. Anyone want to put in on what springs they use on there street car? Thanks